Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've seen alot of 350z and G35 owners and others do the VK56 swap and it's a great engine. My question is can you swap a VK56 into an R34 without replacing the transmission. I don't mean can it handle the power and torque, I mean can the gearbox actually bolt up to the engine. It would be amazing if the VK56 can bolt up to an R34 GT-R and keep the AWD while having the VK56. So what do you think guys can this be done...?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398723-vk56-r34-gt-r/
Share on other sites

I asked Robbie Ward if a VK56 would fit in a skyline and he said that it would be to wide and wont fit easily in GTR engine bay. He has one for his new rail car and said these are massive compared to a LS1

Edited by WHITER33GTS-T
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398723-vk56-r34-gt-r/#findComment-6333488
Share on other sites

yh haha I think I underthought this idea haha if anyone can do it Robbie can. I just thought it was a good idea since I've seen these engines being thrown at everything and they're good engines. i think the front diff thing would pretty much kill this idea would it not?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398723-vk56-r34-gt-r/#findComment-6334200
Share on other sites

Anything you aim to do with 2.6lt can be more easily achieved, be more reliable, and will be less stressed overall when its done with more displacement.

Just just think how much fun a twin turbo VK56 would be.... or stoke it to 6lt first :yes:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398723-vk56-r34-gt-r/#findComment-6334493
Share on other sites

Anything you aim to do with 2.6lt can be more easily achieved, be more reliable, and will be less stressed overall when its done with more displacement.

Not for the money.

Spend $30k shoehorning a VK56 into a GTR and you'll have a bog stock VK56 in a GTR. Spend $30k building up an RB26 and you'll smash the living shit out of your stock VK56 engined R34.

Not to mention the aftermarket support for RBs is probably 100 times larger than that of a VK. Sure, when money is no object, go nutso. I'd do some crazy conversions if I had millions, but just because you can, doesn't mean you should.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398723-vk56-r34-gt-r/#findComment-6334532
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Vk56 at its widest point is 26.5"

these only came out with an auto behind them

There is also the reluctor wheel mounted to the flex plate

there is an adapter plate and clutch kit available off the shelf to match a 370z manual

there is also the height, custom manifold defiantly will be needed

there is also the sump which holds oil vertically at the rear of motor, instead of the horizontal like the RBs (this was to fit the front diff in front of it so it would fit in the Nissan titans

On top of that, not much room for the turbos

they also came out at 9.8:1 (some with corn based eflex)

2007+ = cvct

timing chain also has been known to jump at high revs

US guys claim 17mile/gallon with their n/a

Ecu? 370z use same computer

pistons Google gtm

cams Google Jim wolf technology (s2/s7 s2vct s8 or s8vct most popular

(costs

2k long motor

1k 370z box

1,200 adapter plate

1,200 flywheel/ clutch kit

1,500 cams

300 springs

2-3k importing costs

1,200 pistons

6k stillen supercharger kit

then once here 5k+ fabrication

End result probably around 450-500hp

edit;

Just noticed the dates, sorry for mega post bump lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398723-vk56-r34-gt-r/#findComment-6904839
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

Mega bump and my first post in maybe 5 years but yeah Robbie Ward is right, they are wide as hell being twin cam and all, but they do fit. Google Ian Fournier.

I've got a high comp atmo VK56 in my R32 sedan drift build.

The tightest part was the clearance between the strut towers and the exhaust ports.

Ended up putting in an S14 steering rack for better clearance and getting a custom steering column made to change the angle on the universal to give more room.

Also ditched the brake and clutch masters, running a floor mounted pedal box with remote reservoirs instead. That part isn't essential but I wanted to mount the engine as far back in the engine bay as possible cos racecar.

Custom tunnel etc. Got photos if anyone's curious.

Putting one in an R34 would be fairly similar I would imagine, but forget AWD, if you wanna go big get one of robbies 4wd RB30 long blocks. Be way cheaper in the long run.

Edited by Hillstc
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398723-vk56-r34-gt-r/#findComment-7727481
Share on other sites

Needs more power though - 330AWKW is just a rough and ready RB30 or a mildly modified RB26.

Not saying you're wrong, but it is daily driven on unopened motor with fuel supply issues. and an 80's Jap V8 engine to boot.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398723-vk56-r34-gt-r/#findComment-7727825
Share on other sites

Not saying you're wrong, but it is daily driven on unopened motor with fuel supply issues. and an 80's Jap V8 engine to boot.

I'm not saying 330 awkw is not a decent lot of power but it just seems (in my opinion) a barely adequate return for the huge amount of time and money that has gone into this (well executed) project. And of course it needs a better fuel supply. The owners seem happy with it and that's fine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398723-vk56-r34-gt-r/#findComment-7727929
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...