Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My tuner said i need to get a aftermarket fuel reg.

He forgot to mention if i should get a rising rate or a fixed one.

(malpassi,turbosmart or other)

The car is a r33 gtst.

mods so far

fmic

haltech ecu

turbo back exhaust

bosch fuel pump

splitfire coilpacks

greddy ebc

hyflowed turbo

any thoughts would be great with this one.

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398778-fuel-reg/
Share on other sites

Do it properly and buy a set of injectors and use the factory regulator (its fine for over 350rwkw).

Obviously depends on the hi-flow as to how viable a FPR is (without injectors).

1. If it'll only make 220rwkw then ok fair enough

2. If the hi-flow will make 250rwkw+, then dont waste time and get a set of injectors

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398778-fuel-reg/#findComment-6333497
Share on other sites

As above, and generally all are rising rate? (ie with a 1:1 as the manifold pressure rises so does the fuel pressure)

yes, it absolutely needs to be rising rate in a turbo car - the rising means that fuel pressure rises as your boost does.

Um, point of order here. Rising rate regs actually increase the fuel pressure faster than the increase in signal (manifold) pressure. ie, the slope is greater than 1. Rising rate is actually a poor description for them, but that's just how it is. Most things like that are poorly named in the car world where they wouldn't be in the engineering world.

Normal fuel regs are "constant rate".....if you were to use the same poor terminology. But what they really keep constant is the delta P across the injectors.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398778-fuel-reg/#findComment-6334940
Share on other sites

there is nothing wrong with changing the FPR, way go to the expense of injectors if a FPR will "fix it" if it doesn't need them, ie if it is getting to 99% duty cycle and the op isn't going higher with power then way not just do the FPR and give himself some headroom and save some coins, other then "it's not the right way to do it" cause the higher ressure will also help atomisation

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398778-fuel-reg/#findComment-6335099
Share on other sites

If you just need to sneak in a few extra psi to get you accross the line, then just get a nismo fpr that bolts onto your stock rail.... simple and neat.

If your trying to screw 50psi base pressure into it, then get injectors. Nismo, sard etc.

If you just wan't a shiny new toy for your engine bay... buy a well known brand name and make shure it's genuine.

Cheers

Justin

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398778-fuel-reg/#findComment-6335103
Share on other sites

Do you plan on going much further with the power upgrade?

If you plan on going much further, grab some larger injectors. I have run 550s within standard FPR - but consider that most

After market injectors are rated based on a 3kg base fuel pressure, the factory FPR is rated at 2.55 kg

So 'best' option would be to get some larger injectors and a FPR - as mentioned earlier, Nismo bolt on type is a good option, minimal stuffing around and work well with the factory fuel rail.

For a budget upgrade to give a little extra injector headroom - a FPR by itself can do the job well - once again, Nismo type is neat, easy to fit and works well.

Not a fan of rising rate FPR, as you end up with higher pressure than the injectors are rated at

My 0.02c

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398778-fuel-reg/#findComment-6335164
Share on other sites

  • 8 months later...

well that's the thing. any standard (or tuned) ECU is based on a specific base pressure. If you put an adjustable FPR on and are not retuning, you need to set it to the same base pressure as the previous FPR, ie there is no point.

The only real use to an adjustable FPR is to get maybe 10-20% more flow out of injectors without swapping them for something larger. In that case you must retune the car anyway, so set it to the standard base + whatever % you need and tune it from there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398778-fuel-reg/#findComment-6730604
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...