Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I wish people would put up their budget on how much they're willing to spend, would make it so much easier to recommend an oil. Any $ figures I put in ()'s are approximations.

Good (Group 3 semi-synths): Motul 4100 Turbolight ($50), Gulf Western Syn-X 3000 ($35), Royal Purple ($50)

Better (Group 4 PAO full synths): Motul 8100 X-Cess/X-Max ($70), GW Syn-X 6000 ($60), Royal Purple XPR ($120), Mobil 1 0w40 ($70)

Best (Group 5 Ester full synths): Motul 300V Chrono ($150), Redline ($120)

I wish people would put up their budget on how much they're willing to spend, would make it so much easier to recommend an oil. Any $ figures I put in ()'s are approximations.

Good (Group 3 semi-synths): Motul 4100 Turbolight ($50), Gulf Western Syn-X 3000 ($35), Royal Purple ($50)

Better (Group 4 PAO full synths): Motul 8100 X-Cess/X-Max ($70), GW Syn-X 6000 ($60), Royal Purple XPR ($120), Mobil 1 0w40 ($70)

Best (Group 5 Ester full synths): Motul 300V Chrono ($150), Redline ($120)

My apologies I forgot to put how much I was willing to spend basically it doesn't worry me I want what's best for the engine Redline or Motul 300V Chrono seem like the best sort of option am I correct ? :)

As long as the oil is changed at 5,000km or every 6 months (whatever comes first) anything I listed or others have listed are perfectly fine. Motul 300V and Redline are the best and you said you wanted the best (comes at a big price).

Personally anything I listed in the good or better category I would use on my GTR when doing street driving. Better or Best I would use at the track, it's overkill for a street driven car.

As far as my quick google check, HPR is a full synthetic by marketing (containing the minimum percent of mixed PAO synthetic), not a true Group IV oil. Which means it belongs in amongst the Group III oils, but the 10 Tenths range is a true synthetic (mix of PAO and esters )

Nulon Full synthetic is another example, not a true group IV synthetic, but it meets the minimum percent of synthetic stock to be marketed as such.

the turbolight or hpr is more than enough, I use them for my track car. I dont see the point of 150 for oil on street car.

Exactly

OP needs to say what the car is mainly going to be used for. If its just around town nothing wrong with motul turbolight. I use 8100 x-cess which is pretty good

the turbolight or hpr is more than enough, I use them for my track car. I dont see the point of 150 for oil on street car.

my two reccomendations exactly... unless the motor is making big power and is tracked then there is no point spending more coin. as it's just a waste.

I would add to this castrol edge 10w60 though if the car is going to be spending long periods on the limiter

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
    • Yes it is ATF. I quote @Duncan "it takes a good synthentic auto trans fluid like Castrol Transmax Z" It's not a diff. It's a transfer case. Totally different thing. Yes, fluid will come out the sender hole. No you do not really need to drain it. Just pull the old, quickly poke the new, clean up and top up. But realistically, you should probably take the opportunity to change it anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...