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broke 2 N1 pumps within last 2 months. crank shaft was balances, replaced 20yr balancer with new billet alu crank pulley.

regardless any of above i broke another N1 yesterday.

bought both N1 pumps from ebay (US seller)

have a feeling that quality could be poor on new N1 pumps.

Now I decided go for either tomei or Nitto.

if tomei really worth for bucks wouldn't mind spent few hundreds more pick tomei over Nitto.

need experts advise.

one last thing should i get rid of billet crank pulley and replace with ATI balancer.?

thanks in advance.

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one last thing should i get rid of billet crank pulley and replace with ATI balancer.?

Oh gawd yes. Balancers (which actually dampen vibration, they dont effect balance) are very important for the life of the oil pump especially, and the engine more generally.

Either Nitto or Tomei are good. I can't say ive ever heard of either of these failing. If you bought one of these first, you probably wouldn't have had to start this thread.

Having said that... if you are using a solid billet pully instead of a propper ballencer like a Ross or ATI (or even a factory one), then your asking for trouble... and may well be the first to break a top end pump because of it.

Out of that thread you should read ATCO and R.I.P.S NZ's posts.

You can break anything if you try hard enough but with Tomei and Nitto you have to try pretty darn hard!

If your buying a tomei pump, decide one your oil type, power, and get the pressure set. I have mine at 65, which is more like 75 psi, but im running redline 15w/50 and running at 340kw for example.

Heavy oils become abrasive under too much pressure.

Tomei or Nitto are both good.

I hope you have a crank collar fitted?

The newer updated revision Nitto pumps now have the gears durafinished. Its a type of metal conditioning.

The big advantage of the Tomei is the ability to adjust oil pressure without removing the pump.

If your going to use one of these pumps, make sure you have a large sump and your oil drainage from the head is good.

Here is a thought:

DONT USE EITHER.

For a motor built to use a Nissan pump a higher flow, higher pressure aftermarket pump will simply push too much oil into the head of the motor and make a mess of everything. If you have a stock sump you will run out of oil and destroy your motor.

Sort out the harmonic balancer and get a machined rotor for the pump.

me sick n tired of changing oil pumps so often. for some reason it brakes while sudden acceleration. if rev up smooth no dramas. this time i need to change bearings as well. last 4 months i have change 3 N1 pumps thinking it was issue with balancer.

broke first time then balance harmonic balancer n crank. broke pump under sudden rev up

then replace with billet aluminium crank pulley broke under sudden rev up.

so thought of putting best pump in the market along with ati or ross balancer. as i mention earlier currently i got billet crank pulley.

hope it would work this time with one of those pump.

since tomei got pressure adjuster outside shall i drop the pressure and keep stock sump?

btw it is RWD rb26 on r32. have weld stock sump to suit rwd.

Sounds like you have a problem that's not related to the quality of the pump, and i'm guessing you'll break whatever pump you put in. Hopefully there are some engine builders reading this who can offer advice. If not, seek them out.

I cant see there's any reason to think a different pump will last much longer - you'll be throwing money down the toilet...

Have u looked at the new hks oil pumps ?

I run a grex in my R33 and it's still holds together with nos, t88, 288 cams and 40psi of boost.

I have blown nittos in customers cars on the dyno but all pumps have their limits.

I only use jap parts - reason is they have been building big hp rb's for more years than anyone and they have spent plenty on r&d.

We all have our preferences when we build.

Does sound odd actually, is your crank bent or twisted at all? like has the motor been blown before? Or has the crank collar (if fitted?) been put on excentric?

motor was blown and replace with mint condition used crank n cp 87mm pistons and eagle rods.

ACL bearings

crank collar fitted at first built

running gt2560 (320hp each) turbos

Edited by hkssam

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