Jump to content
SAU Community

Kaskos New Clutch

Manuel Kasko
 Share

Recommended Posts

Manuel Kasko Grand Master

Manuel Kasko

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Still don't know what to do or if this is normal.

Clutch is less the 100km old

Everything I have read contradicts itself and so do the mechanics

The noise seems to be made on idle while in neutral and also when the clutch is just starting to grab.

I put it into first and slowly released the pedal and it made the noise louder just as the clutch grabbed.

The sound of it is kind of like a grinding/tinkering?

Dobz Experienced

Dobz

Posted
Posted (edited)

The bearing that the input shaft runs on at the front of the box, though it's unlikley it's that it is worth having a look at.

It sounds like more of a throw out bearing issue but as you said earlier it was new.

The next step is pull it apart and inspect.

Edited by Dobz
Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

I replaced the spigot and the thrust

What's the input?

The bearing that the input shaft runs on at the front of the box, though it's unlikley it's that it is worth having a look at.

It sounds like more of a throw out bearing issue but as you said earlier it was new.

The next step is pull it apart and inspect.

Just because the Throwout bearing is new, doesn't mean it's not stuffed.

There may have been little or no grease in the bearing, and it is failing; certainly not the first time I've heard of a brand new bearing with no grease in it.

Generally, a damaged thrust bearing will make more noise if you press lightly on the clutch pedal.

If it's happening just as the clutch plate makes contact with the flywheel, the friction plate itself might be bent, not concentric etc.

It won't fix itself if you leave it; I'd definitely be having a look in there before it does any unnecessary damage.

ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

I was advised that flywheel bolts should be tightened to higher than factory torque settings for HD clutches..I forget what setting they were done at but it was rather extreme..

the car my clutch was in previously hadn't done this and it came loose destroying the clutch..

Manuel Kasko Grand Master

Manuel Kasko

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I was advised that flywheel bolts should be tightened to higher than factory torque settings for HD clutches..I forget what setting they were done at but it was rather extreme..

the car my clutch was in previously hadn't done this and it came loose destroying the clutch..

Thanks ARTZ I might speak to the guy who sold me the clutch and ask him about the settings.

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

I was advised that flywheel bolts should be tightened to higher than factory torque settings for HD clutches..I forget what setting they were done at but it was rather extreme..

the car my clutch was in previously hadn't done this and it came loose destroying the clutch..

I'm a bit sceptical about that; you risk actually stretching the bolts outside their optimum elastic deformation ability (how far they can stretch) and they can actually fatigue and loosen or break.

The ability of the bolt to stretch at a certain torque setting is what allows the bolt to reliably clamp two surfaces against one another.

If the bolts that were used in your car had already been stretched beyond their ability to recover; this could well be the reason the flywheel subsequently came loose.

Re-using flywheel bolts that have been in an engine for 100 000km+ is pretty silly anyway; they do have a hard life, and they're not that expensive.

If I remove a flywheel, I always buy a new set of bolts. It's cheap insurance in a performance application.

kudos.motorsports Grand Master

kudos.motorsports

Posted
Posted

If the noise is present with the gearbox in neutral and clutch pedal released (clutch engaged) then it's your gearbox input shaft bearing(s) that are shagged. If it's just the release bearing, the noise should worsen/appear when the clutch pedal is depressed (clutch disengaged) and quieten/disappear once the pedal is released.

Manuel Kasko Grand Master

Manuel Kasko

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Noise is more present when the pedal is pushed to the floor.

But today I took it for a brap to see what it's like.

The clutch gives out a squeel when on boost in most gears.

I was thinking of taking it to a clutch place so they can hear the noise. Then at least I can go to the guy who provided the clutch and say what I need replaced or I can go to the guy who installed it and say what he did wrong

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

Noise is more present when the pedal is pushed to the floor.

But today I took it for a brap to see what it's like.

The clutch gives out a squeel when on boost in most gears.

I was thinking of taking it to a clutch place so they can hear the noise. Then at least I can go to the guy who provided the clutch and say what I need replaced or I can go to the guy who installed it and say what he did wrong

Get him to have a look/listen; give him the opportunity to make a judgement before going off.

Sometimes things just go wrong; it's how you/he deal with it that makes the difference. He may offer to do the removal for inspection for cheap/free; if there's an issue with the parts or the workmanship he will hopefully be fair with you.

If he goes ballistic when you broach the subject; you might be better off going elsewhere; but if he's any kind of a bloke; he should be approachable.

Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

Kasko it's definitely clutch related, particularly as you've just installed the clutch and it's only just come about. I'm guessing thrust bearing screwed or wasn't greased properly. That or clutch wasn't alligned properly. Slight possibility is also an incorrectly installed spigot bearing/bush.

I think the new clutch was a solid investment...

Actually, it's a sprung centre.

cwhatididthar?

Manuel Kasko Grand Master

Manuel Kasko

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I wish it all just went together and I could be heading out to Sutton rd this weekend.

Looks like its just another set back and some more cash invested.

On the plus side I sorted out my idle

and am currently speaking to HSD about getting some new bushes for the coilovers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • GTSBoy
      Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • RB25inside
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By RB25inside · Posted

      Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The Bogan
      Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines

      By The Bogan · Posted

      The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • MBS206
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...