Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys new to these cars so forgive me if I sound like a massive noob, tried using search but info for these things is a bit all over the place so I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction, my plan was to go a turbo back exhaust, hdi cooler and raise the boost up a couple of psi(if that's possible in stock form)

any other ideas or advice would be sweet! Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/399998-stagea-arx-go-faster-bits/
Share on other sites

if you have the dosh RHDjapan, nengun.com or any of those types of stores can source you new parts from japan.

For used parts try scouring Yahoo.jp or even the forsale section here..

i have some Nismo Suspension (Nismo Struts and Nismo springs) for sale if you are interested.

Sounds like a good plan Jules. Bear in mind a good turbo back exhaust will also increase flow and you'll probably see a bit extra boost. When I did mine, I gained 3PSI.

Also do some searching about the turbo banjo bolt, and budget for a turbo. Sounds like a Hypergear rebuild is the go these days, for around $1k depending on what you're looking to gain.

Have a read through these forums and m35stagea.info and I'm sure you'll find a heap more info (and have a heap more questions!).

if you do the "power duct" mod to the airbox with an aftermarket airfilter, HDi cooler and full exhaust you should get and increase of 4PSI (16PSI)

but first i would be getting one of scotty's dump pipes and then get a full 3" stright through exhaust made or buy one already made.

also another thing to keep in mind is an intake spacer but that one is up to you.

these mod's should get an extra 35Kw at the wheels..........

Yeah I've read about the turbo's so ill definately plan for that, would I have to remove the turbo myself(my mechanic) and send it in for highflowing?

Also read that the stock suction is a big restriction...any alternatives without going custom made?

Cheers for the info dudes sort of got an idea on where to start haha

depends on your power goal, that standard suction will get you to about 180kw, with an after market ecu. if you go custom without getting a new ECU, you will hit the air flow cut, which is rather annoying.

I REALLY reccomend cleaning that banjo restrictor bolt before anything. once that thing gets blocked you'll end up with a blown turbo like I did three times before we found it.

4 now if you count the s14 Aaron. :)

I can make a suction pipe and any other pipes you require but I would need the car here for most of the work. Where are you located? The only parts I have a jig for and can send interstate are the dump pipe, the front pipe with cat and the lower 2 sections of the suction (intake) pipe to the AFM at the moment. PM me if you are interested. :)

Definitely clean the banjo restrictor, its in the block just in front of the passenger driveshaft. If you have trouble doing that, you will love doing the turbo swap. lol.

+11ty for banjo bolt; it's such a simple job, seriously takes no time to remove.

Very cheap insurance.

The other thing that no one has mentioned is the shift kit; which I'd have to say is one of the things I'm most happy with, and would be a benefit even on a dead stock car.

You play the Banjo Dale? lol.

Lol, of course dude! This is my brother & I playing outside our shack; I kick arse, but frankly he's a bit of a wanker...

What role do they play if you can replace them?

The banjo bolt has a 1mm hole in it to restrict the amount of oil going through the core of the turbo; as a BB core requires much less oil than a comparable plain bearing core.

The 1mm hole is a potential failure point, as it can easily block with gunk if the car hasn't been regularly serviced.

There's mixed opinion about whether it needs to be bigger, or whether it just needs to be cleaned out.

IMO; the hole is unnecessarily small, and even though mine was absolutely perfect when removed, I've opened the hole up to 1.5 mm with absolutely no ill effects.

I believe it's cheap insurance, but others don't. Either way; check it.

A 17mm socket, a 12" extension bar and a ratchet will have it out in no time, using a spanner just makes life hard.

When re-installing; pack the void in the back of the socket with some newspaper to stop the banjo from sinking to the back of the socket and wind it in by hand using the socket & extension bar only.

You can also wrap a few turns of insulation tape around the hex of the bolt to hold it firmly in the socket as you line it up.

Don't lose the compression washer from behind the oil line, or the one on the banjo.

Nip it up, and start the engine; checking for leaks. Job done.

Edit; Beat me to it Scotty.

Edited by Daleo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...