Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have just put the engine back into the car, it starts then instantly dies, when I unplug the afm, it starts and runs, soon as i plug the afm back in, it idles high for about 3 secs then dies.

Its a r33 with s2 engine. Have just installed the following:

-Gt35 turbo

-front facing plenum

-z32 afm

-555cc nismo injectors

-nistune (stock tune with z32 and 555cc injector changes)

-fmic

-040 pump

-timing belt, water pump, spark plugs (7 heat, 0.8mm gap)

Not sure what the problem could be, any ideas? What can I check? Thinking it could be a vac leak, may something to do with aac valve, dont know.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/400430-r33-not-running/
Share on other sites

If you plug the AFM in, and the car dies... And you take it out and it idles...

Tried another AFM? Is the AFM throwing a fault code/sensor?

Might be a VAC leak but it'd have to be a rather large one. Sure you've sealed the plenum correctly?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/400430-r33-not-running/#findComment-6360654
Share on other sites

I know when Dvs Jez was tuning my car with the nistune z32 ecu base map for r33's and just updated the afm and injector settings for 555's and z32 afm, it wouldn't really run. He had to fiddle with a few settings to get it to idle properly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/400430-r33-not-running/#findComment-6360872
Share on other sites

I know when Dvs Jez was tuning my car with the nistune z32 ecu base map for r33's and just updated the afm and injector settings for 555's and z32 afm, it wouldn't really run. He had to fiddle with a few settings to get it to idle properly.

Correct. Its not as simple as selecting the afm and injectors and drive away.

K const needs to be adjusted to get it running

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/400430-r33-not-running/#findComment-6360878
Share on other sites

A Nissan ECU measures the AFM voltage, and uses the VQ curve to convert that to an amount of air flowing. The ECU then calculates the injection time by multiplying the revs by the air flow value by the K value (basically). If you put bigger injectors in, you need to reduce the K value, as you don't want to the bigger injectors to pulse as long as smaller ones. If you change the AFM (physically), then you change the VQ map in Nistune to reflect the different voltage-flow relationship and you have to adjust the K again.

The built in functions for resizing injectors and AFM in Nistune do this for you by simple ratio calculation between known (assumed) sizing of injectors and known (assumed) performance curves of the air flow meters. But such simple maths does not capture the fuzzy edges of the differences between things you change, and worse, with injectors the latency can be quite different, which is not automatically updated when you use the resize functions. End result, it is more normal to have to manually tweak the K value to get it to run properly, fairly common to need to adjust K to get it to run at all, and almost unknown to be able to swap stuff around without needing to touch the K value at all.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/400430-r33-not-running/#findComment-6361463
Share on other sites

That's the point....it is very specific to your setup. Here's my tip. In Nistune, with the basic changes for AFM and injectors done, increase the K value by 10% and see if that makes it better. If not try +20%, +30%, maybe even higher. If none of that helps, try -10% and so on. When you find a change that makes it better, then try 5% changes around that.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/400430-r33-not-running/#findComment-6361731
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi All,

I'm a noob so I'm not sure if I'm on the right thread or not, but here goes..

Last night I did the mod where you ground out the boost solenoid on an R33GTSt.

Well I read the entire thread on that before attempting it, & then did it as specified.

When I went to test it on my way to work this morning it would not rev over 2500rpm, just kept coughing until i dropped the revs below 2500.

I freaked out (i only just got the car), & put it back to standard, but it still wont rev over 2500rpm..

Have I broken something? Can I fix this?

So far I have reset the ECU as specified (disconnect batt & pump brakes)

I hot wired the solenoid to see if it works (it does)

& I tried running the car with the solenoid grounded & ungrounded.

Still only 2500 rpm..

Please HELP!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/400430-r33-not-running/#findComment-6380472
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy Haven't really thought of that yet, but you are right. If the hose was damaged it should be absolutely pissing by now. I'll put some heat sleeve around it for good measure since I'm already removing the line anyway.  Maybe I'll put on some of the stock hardlines if I ever fully remove the turbos again. Maybe when T51R modding the compressor housings? Might be a fun mod on GT28s for that "fake single turbo" effect.
    • Update 1: I did some work on the car already before finalizing this post and my "issues" list. I dropped the Tomei exhaust in favor of the HKS Hi Power Silent. Sounds nice and I can actually hear myself think now. Also gives me a realistic chance to legally drive without silencer inserts. A bit of cheating was necessary to still be able to mount the Top Secret style diffuser. Some malusage of washers and a bit of "convincing" toward the brackets and exhaust hanger seemed to do the trick. The shaky steering wheel has been resolved as various suspension components were worn, like sway bar bushings and link bars. Most notably the two steering tie rod ends. Had some trouble finding bushings because my sway bars are not OEM thickness, 23.x up front and 27 rear. But non adjustable, so no aftermarket I suppose. Maybe they are nismo units? Turbo oil drain hoses were definitely still the originals and are new now. Wasn't the cause of the turbo oil leak sadly. Currently removing the rear turbo because of it, I suspect the braided oil feed line is the culprit. This issue needs to be dealt with so I can work towards actually getting the turbo setup legal and inspected. Two new issues to add to the list as well. Rear Main seal is probably leaking. Time will show how bad it is, I don't really want to drop the gearbox right now just for the stupid seal. Could fix a few other things in one go once I do that. Front right driveshaft grease is going past the cv boot, so at some point I'll fix that too.
    • Ok so no 4cyl clutch... Yeah it is a factory manual. So if iam correct i need clutch and flywheel too? I can use something that suits something like R32 GTST?   EDIT: https://www.ebay.com/itm/224291042776 Is this ok?   EDIT2: i maybe forget to mention this(dk how important it is) but the trans will be behind RB25DET NEO(iam doing swap) It will be there for a little while. Iam planing to do bigbox or BMW tranny..
    • You're probably right about that one. Thanks for your suggestions, I hope I don't need a new 3rd brake light. Although wiring issues might arguably be worse. Right now I'm in the midst of a turbo removal because of my oil leak, other problems are going to have to wait for now.
    • Hell, I know that much. So far I just put it off as "part of the deal".
×
×
  • Create New...