Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys and girls, after a brisk search through SAU and reading the coilpacks thread i am going to be sticking with OEM coils in my build, BUT, i am wanting to go to an ignition amplifier such as an HKS Twin Power DLII unit or similar. Now, my query is, what is available on the market these days and what are the costs of purchasing them? I have heard of a few workshops using thier preferred items but not too many wish to disclose any details on them or dont return calls regarding questions about them. So, in summary, i want to know what is available in the ignition amplifier world, what it costs and the ease of installation as i am a hands on kind of guy ;)

Cheers, Allan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/400586-ignition-options/
Share on other sites

Hey paul. Im going to say that im going to be chasing upwards of 500awkw in the forseeable future. For the moment im looking at mid 400's with the current turbocharger, hopefully. i have heard of Yavuz using his favourite black box, but ill be buggered if i can find a great deal of information on anything of the sort and yavuz seems to be a busy man, which is understandable. People like yourself are the people im looking to pick brains from, real world experiences, realworld results.

Cheers, Allan

Hey paul. Im going to say that im going to be chasing upwards of 500awkw in the forseeable future. For the moment im looking at mid 400's with the current turbocharger, hopefully. i have heard of Yavuz using his favourite black box, but ill be buggered if i can find a great deal of information on anything of the sort and yavuz seems to be a busy man, which is understandable. People like yourself are the people im looking to pick brains from, real world experiences, realworld results.

Cheers, Allan

I'll go to PM.

Ls2 coils or bf ford coils depending on the ecu... At the end of the day when you are talking about inductive coil setups it's the coil that is the limiting factor - not the box that charges the coil.

I've used bf coils on a 30psi plus 2jz with great results running around .95mm gap. Have also run ls2 coils on tt427 lsx motors up to around 20psi with 1.2mm gap.

Edited by rob82

hmmm. Thanks for the input rob. Whilst using LS2 or BF coils is not my ideal setup at this current point in time (wishing for the engine to look as unmolested as possible) i will definately keep it in mind. I would much prefer the coil on plug type setup so i can use the engine ornament/coilpack cover plate to keep things looking tidy.

Thanks again rob,

Cheers, Allan

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-FALCON-BA-BF-XR6-TURBO-6CY-IGNITION-COILS-SPARK-PLUGS-FULL-SET-free-sp-tool-/290714132375?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43afe99f97

Bf coils are cop all you need to do is cut the boots in half and Add a laser cut plate(or a phenolic plate) - absolutely no reason you can't run them under the STD coil cover for less then half the price of spitfires. It will depend upon you ecu though.

Ive never run spitfires any where near that sort of power - not saying that it can't be done but I wonder what the plug gap would be .6mm?. IMO if it's a street car and you want decent drivability/emissions and plugs that last more than 1000km you want minimum .8-.9mm gap.

Edited by rob82

point noted rob. I will definately look into it. Thanks again for the feedback mate, its appreciated. While i respect the fact that there are the "Splitfires are great" brigade, i also have noted the fact that i have not seen one BIG HP GTR in JP that runs splitfires. They all seem to run OEM coils with ignitor mods or run the OKADA or similar Plasma DF coils which may i add, are prohibitively expensive. Please guys and girls, keep the ideas coming! This thread will no doubt benifit more than just me in the future

Cheers, Allan

OEM/Split fires are near enough to the same thing.

People don't use OEM simply because they cost more (call Nissan Aus and prepare for the hernia). Gotta remember the Japanese love their catalogue book of parts :)

As for driveability/emissions... Can't really see how that's a concern with 500rwkw.

point noted rob. I will definately look into it. Thanks again for the feedback mate, its appreciated. While i respect the fact that there are the "Splitfires are great" brigade, i also have noted the fact that i have not seen one BIG HP GTR in JP that runs splitfires. They all seem to run OEM coils with ignitor mods or run the OKADA or similar Plasma DF coils which may i add, are prohibitively expensive. Please guys and girls, keep the ideas coming! This thread will no doubt benifit more than just me in the future

Cheers, Allan

EVERY big HP RB that I have seen over the years has used Splitfires or a custom ignition system. For cost VS mucking about with something custom you cant go past Splitfires.

if i remember correctly, elrodeo was saying they were somewhere in the vicinity of 1700 landed here in aus so they are scary exxy

Oh well not that much lol, I think around $900 for OEM vs Splits with are $550? Cause it was "almost" double.

I think you can get OEM outta the states though cheaper. Not looked into it

(pricing my be off a little, had not paid attention to pricing for quite a while)

yeah nismoiud, i can source OEM new for approx 105 landed each which is cheap as chips. Its got nothing to do with emmisions, i just want it to work faultlessly, and not have to worry about it. As for the cost VS. Splitfires, i may be able to do something for less than half the cost of splitfires, ill let you all know later on and if it eventuates. Cheers for the input so far guys

Cheers, Allan

This.

So you guys don't care about drivability? With a better coil and larger plug gap you will get a more complete burn - which means better usage of the fuel and less contaminants in your oil.

Can anyone comment on what plug gap they are running with STD coils vs torque/hp they are making? I was at the limit of my ignition system on my rb3026dett -5 32 at about 12psi (7200N /290rwkw) with .9mm gap and that was with a fairly good ignition system(the parts were obviously old but in very good condition) they were good test coils for most other cars....

Well @ 500rwkw, you don't have that on a 2.6 or 3ltr - you have plenty of lag though.

For me: OEM coils, 19psi 360rwkw .8 gap. Drives and idles perfectly.

If you run out of ignition @ 12psi with 290rwkw, parts were clearly past their date of expiry.

I know of another 3 cars who are 400-420rwkw with .8 and Splitfires no drama's at all.

So you guys don't care about drivability? With a better coil and larger plug gap you will get a more complete burn - which means better usage of the fuel and less contaminants in your oil.

Can anyone comment on what plug gap they are running with STD coils vs torque/hp they are making? I was at the limit of my ignition system on my rb3026dett -5 32 at about 12psi (7200N /290rwkw) with .9mm gap and that was with a fairly good ignition system(the parts were obviously old but in very good condition) they were good test coils for most other cars....

I have brand new OEM coils plugs at 1.1mm and making 240kw at one bar. Shortly to increase boost to as much as possible with my GT3540 so hoping for better than 300awkw and will let you know if my coils aren't up to it but I'm not expecting any problems. I accept it could be different with an RB26 making 500kw at 10,000 rev/min.

http://www.ebay.com....=item43afe99f97

Bf coils are cop all you need to do is cut the boots in half and Add a laser cut plate(or a phenolic plate) - absolutely no reason you can't run them under the STD coil cover for less then half the price of spitfires. It will depend upon you ecu though.

Ive never run spitfires any where near that sort of power - not saying that it can't be done but I wonder what the plug gap would be .6mm?. IMO if it's a street car and you want decent drivability/emissions and plugs that last more than 1000km you want minimum .8-.9mm gap.

Twice we agree in a week.

I have LS2 coils on mine, I made a neat bracket too out of aluminium so all the coils sit inside where the valley cover goes and I run real short 10mm leads. Go the LS coils, the LS truck coils will deliver a huge spark... you can get rid of that ignitor too. More spark than you will ever need.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...