Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys, I just registered as Stagea info is few and far between on the net compared to Skyline. Forgive me if this issue has been raised in another thread, but I got to like page9 and thought blahblah.gif

Here is my issue and it is a technical/mechanical one. Purchased my first Stagea, 4wd light was on solid. Began maintenance by topping up Attessa reservoir(righthand side of the boot). 4WD light went off. Driving specifically between 85-115kph, I would estimate, I have a shuddering or 'pulsing' sensation coming from what I believe to be the rear axle of the car. Like additional torque is being applied to the rear driveshafts momentarily in an on/off fashion. I would say that it is not a reducing speed sensation, as in abs acting on the rear wheels for some even more bizarre reason, especially as it only happens at a neutral or light load throttle position and the sensation is destinctly coming from the rear end. I have bled the attessa pump as per the instructions for a skyline except I couldnt find the plug to disconnect in teh drivers foot well like skylines are supposed to have. So we used a vacuum bleeder and me inside the car turning the ignition on and off to get pressure from the pump. Im will attempt to re-bleed tomorrow. We did loosen the nipple on the pump itself and had some drips to indicate no air but not entirely sure as it was the first time attempting to bleed an attessa system. Really hope someone can help. Any and all advice welcome smokin.gif

+1 for mismatched tyres, mine did that when I had two tyres the same size but different brands on the back so it is extremely sensitive, the pulsing is the attessa trying to correct for the wheels spinning at different speeds

Edited by Chris_Beli

The pump can be switched by undoing the plug which is to be found behind the drivers kick panel. It is a small plug in my case taped to another loom. However turning the engine on and off probably works just as well for your puposes. Tyre sizes are critical. In NZ it is anyway illegal to have different tyres on the same axle.

Hey, no tires are all the same all round. Nissans usually use an equal width tire allround by design. Im going to try the on-off ignition method again tomorrow for longer. Going to look for a drivetrain expert in my area who may have a gem of wisdom about this.

I have recently had a similar issue after putting a new wheel and tyre package on 19"s all round turns out the front tyres are the issue. My problem was mostly vibration in the steering wheel at around 90 - 120km. Cheap ass china tyres... Will be getting some Federal tyres on Monday.

Hey, no tires are all the same all round. Nissans usually use an equal width tire allround by design. Im going to try the on-off ignition method again tomorrow for longer. Going to look for a drivetrain expert in my area who may have a gem of wisdom about this.

Are all tire pressures equal ? All worn the same depth ?

Did any wheels lose any weights ?

Do you have a torque split gauge ? What does it do during 85-115km/h ?

Any crap on the wheel speed sensors ?

How low was the fluid before topping up ?

I have this same problem. Im pretty sure its the tyres too. I just put newies on the front and kept old no name shit on the rear to wear out. My left is more worn (i like to stick the ass out on the left :)) and yer the shuddering is really starting to piss me off. I will get new tyres and see if it fixes it and let you know?

  • 5 weeks later...

Can anyone confirm that it's the tyres?

Cause i just started having this problem since Sunday and it's driving me nuts!

Attessa reserivoir is full, got all exactly same tyres. I've changed nothing to the car and it suddenly started doing it....

I noticed that my speed seem to drop a bit faster than usual when I'm just coasting in gear at higher speeds, and recently sometimes i can smell something burning after turning off the car...

If you have a spare set of wheels for me to try it out that would be great!

Won't have time until early next week though. :-/

But it doesn't make sense if it's the tyres, since they were perfectly fine...

All good, I rushed to the mechanic the next morning.

While on the hoist, the wheel couldn't barely be moved only just wiggle a bit.

Disassembled the brakes and it decided to work fine again.... but there's still a very slight hesitation on the wheels.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...