Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Rekon something bigger will work well?

Ive done T28 (works good on 9.5:1), 28RS disco, TD05H 18G. The Disco was very fail, I suspect due to cams, the 18G has gone over 200kw but pings with any more than 15 pounds.

My 10:1 motor has been shit from word go, all other 9.5 motors Ive done have at least always been fast. Im currently rebuilding my old DET to make way for an FP30, unless you rekon the 10:1 motor will take to the FP30 as is ? lol, id try it if there was merit (want to stay 98 though).

10:1 would work well with 98 but only with upgraded cams, a bigger turbine housing and low-ish boot. No need to run big boost wen u have high comp, cams and very little backpressure in the exhaust manifold.

  • Replies 82
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Someone sponsor me and Jez to put some ethanol in my SR.

My current SR is 10:1 and very det prone. I wouldnt mind letting jez see if the pineapple juice makes it a monster, would be good for everyone to see.

For science ;)

can't you just fit that water injection kit you have?

cheers

darren

I will pay for 40L of E85 if u wanna try the real mans fuel.

But i think the boys are right maybe weve been trying the wrong setup and we need a bigger turbo. Lets try that gr3040 highmount setup i have waiting for u. For the price its a bargain.

10:1 would work well with 98 but only with upgraded cams, a bigger turbine housing and low-ish boot. No need to run big boost wen u have high comp, cams and very little backpressure in the exhaust manifold.

Exactly, that combo of GTScoT is a real mismatch way too much exhaust pressure... high comp small rear always ends in ping city. What are your exhaust temps?

Perfect E85 contender though for response / vs power..

Thanks for the pointers guys.

Weird thing is though, the first setup I went to tune with was a GT28RS with a .86 rear... Jez will confirm that after we swapped out the rear housing for a .64 it made an identical amount of power (tune needed to be backed off though).

You guys are tempting me to try harder with the DE+T but im realistically worried its just going to be another bout of CRAP. Am currently in the process of getting my old DET checked so i can buy some pistons for it :(

can't you just fit that water injection kit you have?

cheers

darren

I decided against it as my setup has proven too unreliable at the moment, i wouldnt want it to be useless without the WMI.

if i could get it to a point where WMI was an added bonus for big power but without was still awesome i definitely would.

Thanks for the pointers guys.

Weird thing is though, the first setup I went to tune with was a GT28RS with a .86 rear... Jez will confirm that after we swapped out the rear housing for a .64 it made an identical amount of power (tune needed to be backed off though).

You guys are tempting me to try harder with the DE+T but im realistically worried its just going to be another bout of CRAP. Am currently in the process of getting my old DET checked so i can buy some pistons for it :(

I decided against it as my setup has proven too unreliable at the moment, i wouldnt want it to be useless without the WMI.

if i could get it to a point where WMI was an added bonus for big power but without was still awesome i definitely would.

on E85 it should be sweet, we did a high comp E85 S14 Sr20det with poncams and GT2871 and made 269rwkw on sensible boost... and stopped due to no injector left...

on E85 it should be sweet, we did a high comp E85 S14 Sr20det with poncams and GT2871 and made 269rwkw on sensible boost... and stopped due to no injector left...

Problem is though he wont do E85 as its not available near him at this time. , trust me i have been trying since i first met him and his de+T setups

Problem is though he wont do E85 as its not available near him at this time. , trust me i have been trying since i first met him and his de+T setups

aah then WMI is the only option. Same result as E85 just requires a decent controller.

Also, what's the go with timing when tuning these things? Coz when we started at zero its knocking its guts out before you hit 3 degrees.

What's going to happen if you magically start at base timing (IE 15) and go from there? For science, obviously.

Also, what's the go with timing when tuning these things? Coz when we started at zero its knocking its guts out before you hit 3 degrees.

What's going to happen if you magically start at base timing (IE 15) and go from there? For science, obviously.

but what boost are you starting at?, 0-3 degrees is going to make the egts go waaay through the roof.... you need to start real low boost wise and watch your timing table as its is going to limit your boost dont let your boost determine your timing. Always aim to make as much power as safely possible on the lowest boost.

lesson learnt, we were starting at a bar.

so in theory if we started at 7psi and went for a mega aggressive tune, then fine tuned to compensate for boost as it increased.... we COULD have got there?

on the disco, it ended up with 210kw (regardless of .64 or .86) but extremely laggy. I had civics motoring away from me out of corners at wakefield.

lesson learnt, we were starting at a bar.

so in theory if we started at 7psi and went for a mega aggressive tune, then fine tuned to compensate for boost as it increased.... we COULD have got there?

on the disco, it ended up with 210kw (regardless of .64 or .86) but extremely laggy. I had civics motoring away from me out of corners at wakefield.

yeah if it was a 16psi base actuator you were stuck, no good unfortunately. i reckon if you got a 6psi gate and started from there you would have been sweet.

Check it back on with WMI, did i read you had a kit? even at 16psi you should get about 8 degrees in it.

agreed yeah.

well give it another go with the 9.5:1 kando, but im gonna build the lower comp motor for my s14. I do have the WMI kit at home but im wanting to go an FP30. Already sold the disco so its just T28 powered for the minute. Might bring that for a retune if i get bored hehehe

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

dont want to be shaving the head that much to increase compression... you'll reduce the cumbustion chamber size.

need custom pistons with a higher crown height.

Would love to build a stroker RB28 with 10.5 - 11:1 CR balanced within a micron of its life to allow it to rev, Nitto spline drive pump to keep it lubricated. would be fairly nuts i would thing

cp can do custom pistons

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...