Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 99
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

the stock gauges are pretty shit, what air filter have you got on it?? defs recommend a high flow panel filter. same if not more power the a pod filter and its legal :)

other then a crap reading from the stock gauge, or the car not being able to breath or fart, i got nothing :P

do you know if its got the stock boost solenoid and all the standard tube setup?

Thinking of getting a water compressor or whatever they are called and a foamer... And give it a good claybar/polish/wax :D

My plans for the car is of course - zorst - FMIC - Boost controller - Tune . And hopefully be able to leave it at that :D

hopefully........ hahaha

Cheers

Colin

It wont....

I did similar thing

bought mine 100% stock

then pod, then cat back.

was happy for a month.

then turbo back exhaust + FMIC plus boost controller

went well until clutcfh died a week after

then had a fuel cut defender - SHIT.

ended up going to Unigroup where that was removed, other stuff fixed up

new ECU in,

car was great, 195rwkw on 10psi

not long after..

HKS GT-RS turbo, plus this and that (still standard motor) and made 255rwkw

and motorsport got the better of me.

keep it stock hahahahahahaha

no really, keep it stock and buy a second one already modded, it'll cost you the same in the loing run!!

In stock form boost stays at 5psi until 4500rpm then goes to 7psi, completely normal.

High boost solenoid mod is the first thing most people do. If you get a boost controller 10-11psi is as high as you can go before the ECU goes into rich and retard mode.

Word of advice, if you are on a budget just stick to the basic boltons. When you get to the point that you need to upgrade the ECU it starts to get costly.

Also have a clear idea what you want to do with the car BEFORE you start spending money, that way the path you take will become a little bit cheaper.

Hi guys, is it true that i can run approximately 10/11 psi on a 34 gtt intercooler if i swapped mine out?

Looking at maybe getting an exhaust with dual tips and a 34 intercooler so i don't have a huge slab of metal on the front keeping it looking stock =)

I can't afford to get a another one and want to slowly build this one up to a reliable ~ 200kw =D

hopefully 200kw = turbo back + 34gtt intercooler + boost controller and maybe a tune :D

Stock cooler is fine for 200rwkw, dont really want to get an ECU and tune for 200rwkw either.

Air filter

turbo back exhaust

11psi

You will have near enough 200rwkw.

Are you saying i can run my stock 33 cooler on 11psi with no issues? I always thought to run anything higher than 7psi i'd have to upgrade.

Would it be better to run a 33 or a 34 cooler?

Having a sidemount will be AWESOME to maintain awesome stock looks! and save some $$ =D

Thanks

Colin

Found out my issue about not running 7PSI. Was just my stupidity again. Read the dash properly and its in MMGH or something, and i googled it and got a converter which is saying its approximately 7PSI.

Will be installing a boost gauge asap to get a proper reading!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...