Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

This is not related to my skyline, but the advice will probably be the same.

My wife has lost her keys to her '01 liberty (including spare key), and Subaru quoted $400+ for a replacement set.

Is there a way to get a locksmith to cut a new key set instead of spending such a ridiculous amount of cash to get a new set from the stealership?

We don't care about the immobiliser etc. Just need the stupid thing to start!

any advice?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/401210-lost-car-keys-advice-please/
Share on other sites

^^ yeah right - if you read tip 6 of the article you linked to, most vehicles cannot have a new immobiliser fobs made (you need a dealer to do this) .... so have a tow truck ready - yeah right. So suddenly the $400 from the dealership seems cheap. They can probably make a new key and immobiliser fob from the VIN number of the vehicle, courier it to the OP and they are away.

And Kylie have you ever had the exact thing the OP is describing happen to you? Well I HAVE - so it seems you are the idiot giving out bad advice based on an American article you found on the internet. Useful. Not.

And I take it from your long history of warnings that your outspokenness has seen you undone before. So how about you stop talking about things you know nothing of.

If the OP followed your advice there is every chance that they would have to pay for a locksmith callout, non-genuine key to be made, unsuccessful non-genuine fob to be made, tow truck to the dealer, then the actual cost of the new key and fob. As I said above, this makes $400 seem very cheap.

Just go genuine. Yes stealerships suck, but to get a genuine key and fob and have 100% satisfaction the first time round, you would be foolish to call out a locksmith.

I agree with Nightcrawler. If you still had a working key, most good locksmiths can cut a new key and clone the immobiliser chip. But without a key or a chip, you are probably left with getting ripped of by the dealer.. assuming the liberty's have a chip in the key head..

Lucky it isn't a toyota.. some of them need to have the whole immobiliser system replaced if you don't have at least 1 working key on hand.

err the op wasn't worried about the immobiliser for now, just a key, and if he calls around for pricing he most probably will save some coin but I guess that depends if he needs to tow his car or not.

The site offers advice and australian sites to visit. I didn't see anything to say it was American?

That statement about giving advice must have hit a nerve hey, but it was a general statement to anyone wanting to give advice. My advice was pretty clear, research your options. Don't just take someones 'word' for it.

You can hit below the belt and bring up private confidential information that shouldn't be aired on here....just shows how mature and professional you take your moderating position.

This car still has a transponder style immobiliser and will need a genuine key to start it. No locksmith can make a new key and code the transponder without the original. The best they will be able to do is unlock the door.

The reason it costs so much to do at the dealer is because the will need to fit a new body control module with matched key, not just code a new key.

I have a $15,000 scanner that can code most keys and do all OBDII stuff, but i cant code a new key unless i have the old.

Nightcrawler is correct in what he has said.

PS.... this is what i do for a living.

This car still has a transponder style immobiliser and will need a genuine key to start it. No locksmith can make a new key and code the transponder without the original. The best they will be able to do is unlock the door.

The reason it costs so much to do at the dealer is because the will need to fit a new body control module with matched key, not just code a new key.

I have a $15,000 scanner that can code most keys and do all OBDII stuff, but i cant code a new key unless i have the old.

Nightcrawler is correct in what he has said.

PS.... this is what i do for a living.

and I agree. same thing goes with most of the newer cars. unless you have the pin code OR a working key dealer is the only way to do it. doesnt matter if you think its expensive or not.

VIM,

carmen or hannotech?

I would be guessing that the keys for most manufacturers would simply come out of China and then be programmed by the dealers. Any chance of finding a blank for that particular model, having it sent to you and then going to the dealer to program it? The blank would probably cost $2 but based on the amount of time you would spend f'ing around doing this, it might be easier paying the $400.

Have a look at your home and contents policy (provided you have one), there might be a clause in there that covers something like this. Then just weigh up the $400 vs. your excess and possible premium increase on renewal. Some car insurance's will also cover this, the excess on the car insurance is generally higher though but may be worth a phone call to find out.

Edited by Alkatraz

and I agree. same thing goes with most of the newer cars. unless you have the pin code OR a working key dealer is the only way to do it. doesnt matter if you think its expensive or not.

VIM,

carmen or hannotech?

carmen.... i have the older one with the built in dual trace sillyscope and the newer touch screen blue one... sorry cant remember model names, but you get the idea. Also have all the european add ons.

The reason it costs so much to do at the dealer is because the will need to fit a new body control module with matched key, not just code a new key.

Is that true with subaru too? I am fairly sure a Nissan dealer can reprogram a new chip to NATS without needing an existing coded chip?? After all, when they enter the program mode, it erases all existing chips anyway.

I would be guessing that the keys for most manufacturers would simply come out of China and then be programmed by the dealers. Any chance of finding a blank for that particular model, having it sent to you and then going to the dealer to program it? The blank would probably cost $2 but based on the amount of time you would spend f'ing around doing this, it might be easier paying the $400.

Normally the keys are supplied with an existing unique code burnt into the chip, the car's immobiliser needs to be programmed to accept this code.

I purchased a chipped key for my J31 from hong kong, $25 for the key (free postage), about $10 to get it cut and $33 for nissan to program NATS to accept it. (which also cleared the old lost key) much cheaper than the $250+ that Nissan wanted to charge to do the same thing.

Hey guys,

This is not related to my skyline, but the advice will probably be the same.

My wife has lost her keys to her '01 liberty (including spare key), and Subaru quoted $400+ for a replacement set.

Is there a way to get a locksmith to cut a new key set instead of spending such a ridiculous amount of cash to get a new set from the stealership?

We don't care about the immobiliser etc. Just need the stupid thing to start!

any advice?

Has wifie lost other things besides 2-3 keys? I suspect so!

Short term memory? Cognition issues? PM me if she needs to have that tested.

Otherwise, if she thinks hypnosis might help her find at least one, as an SAUer, I'm happy to do it for mates rates (if I have a gap).

Thoughts?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
    • your right the maps for Australia came out in 2017 but are 2010 maps. i got the updated maps SD card put it in and it was the same. Same maps in my Brothers Nissan Patrol. 2020 i think his car is
    • Yeahhhh, the costs have killed me. Spent more than the cost of an engine rebuild and it most mostly servicing and a tune lol.
×
×
  • Create New...