Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hello there, I'll soon be updating from my current car and am considering one of two options. Option A: keeping my currently daily car ( 1997 Nissan Pulsar GA16DE) and buy a 2nd car for the weekends/friday

Option B: sell the pulsar and by a car for my daily, currently looking at Skyline R33GTR, R3425GTT, a evolution 6 or 7 gsr model.

the reason I am currently considering also considering option B is at the moment I have the pulsar which is cheap on fuel and hasn't had many mechanical mishaps despite the 30,000kms per year I travel, and well im not that keen on getting a nice gtr and then adding a hell of a lot of kms on it per year as i travel far to from work as I'd want to keep the next car purchase for quite some time. My maximum budget for a 2nd toy car would be like 15K and looking at R34GTT, skyline 350gt or 350gt-8 sedan, 180sx ect (any recommendations welcome)

So my question is this, what would you do if you were in my situation? Would you keep the reliable cheap daily and get a toy car or sell the current daily and get something nice. Any thoughts and opinions would be welcome.

I don't have a problem spending the money for the car purchase and insurance is more the reliability and and kms that concerns me.

30,000Kms a yr?

I'd keep the Pulsar and bide my time to get the right R33 GTR Series 3 V-Spec.

No hurry in a buyer's market.

And SAU vendors are likely to have the best examples.

My 2c

hey there everyone, thanks for your personal opinions, should've mentioned this before but my maximum budget is 20K, at the moment privately on carpoint there is 5 Nissan skyline R33 GTRS for sale at the moment, prices ranging from $17,000-20,000, lowest Kms 83,000- 103,000kms. (state NSW) @Terry_GT-R34: I ain't rushing to get anything atm. :)

I'd undoubtedly keep the daily and pick up a tidy R33 GTR. Not sure if you'd get a nice one for $20K though. But I used to have one as a daily and 7 years later, did what Terry suggested and waited for a super clean series 3 for the weekends and track only. And it works much better this way.

And just for the record, you'll love it.

I was in the market for an s15 two years ago. Test drove 6 of them, mostly Jap spec ones and a couple of adm s15s which dont have any guts at all. Rubbish. The jap spec s15s go way better. Then I test drove one R34GTT. Fell in love instantly. Bought. So glad I didnt get an s15, I dont like the stereotypical image associated with them and the fact that it looks like a kid's car- very sleek n sexy n hoonish, the skyline is much more masculine, ugly, solid, and brutish and much nicer to drive. Depends what u want, the 34 was my choice and it rocks, would never look at an s15, an EVO yes, GT-Rs a much bigger yes, if only R34GTR prices topple..

also keep in mind you can import an Evo 8 these days for not much more than a 20K and hence import process takes time, it gives you the chance to collect money for the last bits of the process (Compliance, Rego, etc) as in no instant outlay of funds like buying local.

if there is one car that would replace both as a daily and kick ass out of factory fast car. that would be an Evo 8.

I also have 2 cars, which you need really with GTR's, but think of the doubling in Rego, Insurance each year as well. (unless you earnings can easily manager the expense)

IMO - well setup R33 S3 (which looks so much better than S1 GTR) will still set you back a bit over 20K + you will need to keep your second car on top $$$ .

Don't know much about S15 - but driven few nice GTT's and there are lovely cars.

Yes I have also considered doing a import as well, but I have always been little bit suspicious about buying something only based on photos, don't get me wrong I'm sure you'll get good condition cars by go through well known, main stream car importers and should be able to save some cash as well, for personal imports I know that Carizma and J-Spec imports do that as well. Also any one here bought a personal import through J-spec imports, there one mob I have been leaning towards if I purchase and import one over buying something locally. Thanks.

Imported by First car from J-spec in 2007 - V35 Coupe 70th Anniversary and then imported by current car via them in 2011, a R34 GTR V-spec. I can highly recommend them based on my personal experience.

Iron Chef - who posted on your thread above is also high recommended here, just search SAU :)

I now people dont like to import, but really i don't see the what the big deal is - if you want a good car for a great price and have the "TIME" to wait. this is given you doing it with legit people of cause.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...