Jump to content
SAU Community

Fuel System Clogged To Shit

GH05T

By GH05T,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GH05T Grand Master

GH05T

Posted
Posted

OK so any of you that know me know i have had issues with my car on boost, these were all boiled down to fuel delivery issues.

my car was cutting out round corners and running lean on the dyno over 5000rpm, anyway the culprite was my BOSCH 040 intank fuel pump, it was extreamly clogged, the mesh cover was caked and the filter was clogged, so i replaced it with a new one.

this one has been in my tank for about 2 months and it has fallen to the same fate, unfortunatly the Bosch pumps do not have a servicable filter and i assume the internals have been damaged anyway as the pump has become noisy again.

so im going to replace it AGAIN with something different, just for funzies. anyway obviosuly my tank still has shit in it.

i could get the tan kcleaned and try again but i am sick of going through pumps. i do not know if its just debris in the tank or if its rust from the old tank. SO

i have sourced a GTR plastic tank W straps, i still need a sender,

1st question......

with the larger GTR tank and new sender unit, what is involved in getting this to work with my stock guage?

i have also sourced some new gtr injectors (i already have these installed but they might be farked) new ones have been flow tested and cleaned....

what else appart from the fuel filter should i replacein the fuel system? any lines, any bottle neck which may have been affected by the crap going though my system?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/402153-fuel-system-clogged-to-shit/
Share on other sites
DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

Are u sure crap has gone through the system or just in the pumps filter and possibly fuel filter?

Mates 34 did the same thing. He ran the fuel in the tank through a fuel filter and into some jerry cans a few times to remove the debris from the tank. Hasnt played up since

GH05T Grand Master

GH05T

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well i have destroyed 2 fuel pumps, while i have half the system out i might aswell replace anything else i can, dont want to lean out pushing 1bar boost at 6000rpm again, bad sensation when it chokes

GH05T Grand Master

GH05T

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No offense but that

Seams like the worst answer. I'm happy to get a new pump and tank, do it properly, I'm even getting cleaned and flow tested injectors incase their not %100, why would I just keep going through pumps at $200 a pop and get rid of filters? I don't want old tank crap getting past the filters I want their to be no crap.

  • 1 month later...
Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted

Are u sure crap has gone through the system or just in the pumps filter and possibly fuel filter?

Mates 34 did the same thing. He ran the fuel in the tank through a fuel filter and into some jerry cans a few times to remove the debris from the tank. Hasnt played up since

I have a R34 with the same issue as the OP - Except I've gone through pumps in as little as uh, one day.

I was able to take the pump out, clean the mesh with it (Bosch 040) and put it back in and suprise suprise, it actually worked...

...until today, where it is again groaning and carrying on.

The above solution from Jez sounds like it's something to try, at $200 a pop, I can't afford a new pump every couple of days, but I CAN afford to buy like five fuel filters and some jerry cans and pump the tank through them and rinse/repeat instead of obliterating the mesh in the pump and killing pumps over and over.

Just cut the mesh out the bottom of the 040

Pump

And Just replace filter a lot more often.

While this sounds like the ultimate backyard fix, um.. would this actually work? Any thoughts? Its much, much, much easier to replace a filter in the R34 than the pump. (and especially the tank)

How often is often? 5k kms? Or is this option just madness?

Happy to do either or both, really, really tired of replacing fuel pumps.. twice a week.

Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted

fueltank.jpg

Seriously. It is an utter bastard on the R34. So much so I'd almost rather spend $1200 on fuel pumps lol. I'll try the filter and jerry can thing and post here just incase some poor soul has this problem and searches the forums and finds this (like I did)

KURTIS34 Community Regular

KURTIS34

Posted
Posted

While this sounds like the ultimate backyard fix, um.. would this actually work? Any thoughts? Its much, much, much easier to replace a filter in the R34 than the pump. (and especially the tank)

How often is often? 5k kms? Or is this option just madness?

Happy to do either or both, really, really tired of replacing fuel pumps.. twice a week.

I removed the mesh on 040 worked well for me

No issues I did a filter on every service

5000kms

Just comes down to what your prepared to do

I cut mine off as I got sick of pulling pump to clean it.

Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted

Dare I ask what the best way of removing this is? I tend to replace the fuel filter when I replace the oil filter anyway (i.e every 5k kms), because it's .. right there, and costs like $10.

I've only cleaned the pump out, but never really attempted to cut the mesh.

simpletool Mentor

simpletool

Posted
Posted

Cant' you flush the tank while it's in the car ? Pull the lines out the bottom and bung up. fill the tank with a suitable solvent (I'm going to say ethanol) - but REMOVE the fuel pump first !!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...