Project R32 Vs R34

[Nae Danger]

Hey Lads,

So I'm after a project car, and the main prereq is that it needs to be completely different from mine and the missus dailys ( BA XR8, BA XR6T)

As the Topic suggests I'm choosing between a 32 and a 34. I know very little on the skyline front.

What I'm looking for in the project:

The target is 300 rwkw, I roll around with G6ET and F6's and I wish to blow them into the weeds.

I want something fun and nimble, (everythings more nimble than a BA XR8)

later on a Part time track car.

As I see it

32

pros

Nice look,

Weighs nothing

34

pros

more solid motor

The main question is how soild is the RB20?? and how far can it be pushed before an expensive opening ???

I was thinking hey Ill just do a motor transplant which doesnt phase me in the slightest, except ...these cars get targeted by cops and a transplant would last 5 mins on the street.

the ultimate point I guess is power to weight ratio. If the Rb20 is solid then the decision is made

Edited June 13, 2012 by Nae Danger

[34GeeTeeTee]

Well the 300rwkw would lean you towards the bigger engine being the 34.... The ford power figures are generally flywheel, so are you trying to have more power or drag race mates? What's the goal? And If u even hint wanting to race on the street or beat them off lights, Its gunna get ugly fast!!

[Nae Danger]

The power figures of mates cars are Rwkw, I said part time track car, racing on the streets is for idiots

Essentially I need to beat them in Power/weight , the R34 its about 290-300kw R32 its 240-250kw. Its not born out of one up man ship , It's more of a , "i know what 350rwkw in a 1700kg falcon feels like, And I want it too....just not in a falcon"

Also can the manual box and Diff, in an R32 take 250kw...or is a full beef up in order.

Edited June 13, 2012 by Nae Danger

[Aberax]

250rwkw in a R32 is still pretty quick. I know someone with a stockish RB25 in a R32 GTST and it goes like the clappers. With the R32 you would have a higher power to weight ratio which is never a bad thing.

An engine transplant is legal with the R32, as long as the engine is newer, and you have the braking systems to suit, ie, you drop a R33/R34 RB25 into a R32, you also then need to use R33/R34 brakes. You then fill in some paperwork, send it off, maybe take it to Regency for an inspection, so make sure everything is stock...and done, now you can modify it to get 300rwkw+. Oh, also use a RB25 gearbox, it is stronger then the RB20 gearbox as it is designed for more torque.

Of course you could keep the RB20 in there, but it will make more work to get the same amount of power as a RB25 would.

Nothing wrong with going the R34 route either, just means your power to weight will be slightly less...but compared to a Falcon it would still be higher.

[dark.sky]

As much as I love the RB20, I wouldn't use one to blow the Fords away. I would either go with a RB25 converted R32, or the 34.

20's are f**king awesome motors, but they are better at being thrashed to no end around a track than putting down 1/4 mile times (so-to-speak).

I would also say that most of the 20's floating around are only running about 60-80% of what they should, they've given up to 23 years of performance (if you get an 89 model) and that takes it's toll. Unless you've got one that's been rebuilt of course, or one that has genuinely low kms.

[34GeeTeeTee]

And if you take cost into account the 34's cost a heap more to modify and maintain so maybe the 32 is an option...

[dark.sky]

Not having a go at you, but how so?

[34GeeTeeTee]

Not having a go at you, but how so?

You mean cost to modify? ECU's, injectors, Clutches, parts etc cost a LOT more on the 34GTT.... i only say this as i have just dropped over $20k on mine to get it over 300rwkw (Its getting tuned at the moment).... I know you can do it cheaper but i wanted it responsive, if the OP wants to beat the other cars i assume he is going to want it setup right. It seems that most parts are expensive on the GTT and harder to get...

I assume thats what you were asking?

[Dohmar]

And if you take cost into account the 34's cost a heap more to modify and maintain so maybe the 32 is an option...

Couldnt agree with that. If anything the 32s are getting more expensive due to their age.

-D

[DC_GTST]

From experience Rb25 into the R32 with the Rb25 gearbox is the go (unless you buy a GT-R). 300rwkw can be easy target, and more so with E85 available if you want to go that direction. Currently sitting on just over 320rwkw with BP98 on 18psi, so definitely achievable, just got to have the supporting mods and decent tune.

All depends on how far you want to go with it and the application (as noted above)

[Nae Danger]

It seems that the rb25 into the 32 is a goer :-)

[34GeeTeeTee]

It seems that the rb25 into the 32 is a goer :-)

If you do it yourself and its gunna be a 300rwkw thing.....Build Thread!!!!

Look at Simons R32 in the Kando thread, pure awesome!

[Nae Danger]

Id love to do it myself but I could see it all going horribly wrong

In terms of the legality of It, Could I by a GTS then drop in the RB25DeT or would that run into issues going from Turbo to NA

Same question about going from Auto to manual.

Lets say I buy an Auto NA R32.

Is it just as easy to then go Rb25Det Manual R32, or would i have to start at Manual GTST

Edited June 14, 2012 by Nae Danger

[34GeeTeeTee]

I have workshops doing all the hard parts for me, so i just mean if you sourced the parts and chose what you wanted to do etc you should keep a record of it, its a good combo to build and each one is different.....

[Matty 31]

Id love to do it myself but I could see it all going horribly wrong

In terms of the legality of It, Could I by a GTS then drop in the RB25DeT or would that run into issues going from Turbo to NA

Same question about going from Auto to manual.

Lets say I buy an Auto NA R32.

Is it just as easy to then go Rb25Det Manual R32, or would i have to start at Manual GTST

Brian, easier to start with a GTSt, as you'll already have the 5 stud hubs and slightly bigger brakes, admittedly you'll have to chuck R33 brakes on there anyways, but why not start with a car that was turbo to begin with

[DC_GTST]

^^ what he said. If you managed to get a Type-M you can keep the front brakes, but it won't cost all that much for a set of R33 front's anyhow.

[Nae Danger]

just based on cost matty, If a non turbo is cheaper, then why spend more if im just going to rip it all out anyway.

So easier to start with a GTST.

What about the auto manual swap?? does it matter which one I start with?? or is it like a ford where going auto to manual is a huge undertaking??

Edited June 14, 2012 by Nae Danger

[Matty 31]

Auto/manual is pretty easy. Pedal box, clutch master / slave cylinders and lines, crossmember, gearbox (and if you do a 25 conversion, you just buy a package with gearbox), tailshaft. Im sure others will be able to confirm otherwise

[34GeeTeeTee]

just based on cost matty, If a non turbo is cheaper, then why spend more if im just going to rip it all out anyway.

So easier to start with a GTST.

What about the auto manual swap?? does it matter which one I start with?? or is it like a ford where going auto to manual is a huge undertaking??

If its a non turbo or a 20 box your going to get rid of it either way, so i cant see any drama there......

[Nae Danger]

Clearly a roller is the way to go , hopefully a repairable write off with only a blown motor ,