Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 238
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

here it is, skip to around 5:50 for flameage

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PnMvr5p_juw&feature=plcp

Does anybody know why outside is so over exposed? im using a GoPro HD2.

I was thinking maybe theres too much black in the picture from the cabin for it. But i have know idea when it comes to filming...

Does anybody know why outside is so over exposed? im using a GoPro HD2.

I was thinking maybe theres too much black in the picture from the cabin for it. But i have know idea when it comes to filming...

Check to see if your metering on the GoPro is set to "Spot Metering," which is the small dot in the middle of a square. That way, it takes a light reading from just the centre of the image instead of the whole screen (Evaluative Metering). That might help, bet even then with a GoPro it can be hit and miss unless you have the LCD Backpak or can aim it almost spot-on out the windscreen.

here it is, skip to around 5:50 for flameage

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PnMvr5p_juw&feature=plcp

Does anybody know why outside is so over exposed? im using a GoPro HD2.

I was thinking maybe theres too much black in the picture from the cabin for it. But i have know idea when it comes to filming...

It's trying to balance for the majority of the screen. Since most of your video is of the inside of the car it has gone for that. You can try repositioning it to see more out the window next time.

I don't know what settings they have, but you might also be able to make it work on the focal point, then all you need to do is get the outside of the car in the center of the screen for more magic. Either way, its 1 or the other really, if you get good outside, inside will be dark.

Looks awesome fun either way!!

Check to see if your metering on the GoPro is set to "Spot Metering," which is the small dot in the middle of a square. That way, it takes a light reading from just the centre of the image instead of the whole screen (Evaluative Metering). That might help, bet even then with a GoPro it can be hit and miss unless you have the LCD Backpak or can aim it almost spot-on out the windscreen.

+1 the orginal GoPro HD's came default average metering. I had to turn spot metering on. The down side is that the cabin will be much darker. But when shooting in a dark environment with bright outside you have to "tell" the device what you want to do. The "Dot" that Nick said is pretty much in the centre of the picture that is used to read how much light and therefore what exposure setting to use. When you aim it just be sure the centre of the frame goes out the windscreen.

If you have editing software you can usually bring down the exposure a bit as long as there's still a bit of detail (not washed out or all white). The colors and contrast won't be as good but will give a bit more detail.

Ok, cheers for the info guys. I'll gives that a try

What do you recommend for editing and uploading to youtube with Eric? I used the window's program but it came out pixelated in places and was quite a large file too I think (380m)

When editing I assume you mean just clipping - right? Streamclip (freebie) can do that and maintain the H.264 Mpeg4 codec the GoPro uses. It's only basic but will do clipping. Be sure to stay on an MPEG4 code - H.264 is best right now, or else xvid or divx. H.264 will produce the best looking video with the smallest size but may take longer to encode.

The GoPro in 50/60 frames progressive is ahead of the standards right now. There isn't really an Official standard that does that framerate in HD. Hence why I recommend streamclip if you just want to clip them down.

For full on video editing I use Corel VideoStudio Pro X. Does everything I need and more and only $120 on line.

For YouTube and Vimeo I usually create a 720P file in DivX format with a reasonable bitrate. Still a couple hundred megs for a few minutes but looks so much better now that everyone has big monitors and broadband.




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..   
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...