Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

seriously? I was at the tuner yesterday for 5 hours.. sure it must be a dream loll I just do not brag about my setup on the internet like some of you. I have nothing to prove and couldn't careless if you don't believe me.

but for the people really interesting ( because, yes I actually got 3 pms regarding this) about the -9, yes its possible ot achieve great number.

and here, we do not run E85 ;) we run 94.

Lol, you did brag.

Considering what sean posted, then you should get ahold of some e85, better than that 94 stuff you boys seem to run :P

dont laugh, my mate is making 286kw @ 14.5psi with gt-ss

Yeah on my built motor i made 280rwkw @ 1bar as well

seriously? I was at the tuner yesterday for 5 hours.. sure it must be a dream loll I just do not brag about my setup on the internet like some of you. I have nothing to prove and couldn't careless if you don't believe me.

but for the people really interesting ( because, yes I actually got 3 pms regarding this) about the -9, yes its possible ot achieve great number.

End of the day mate -9s aren't going to flow 380rwkw @ 18psi, that's the simple truth.

If you really "do" have that power, take it to the strip and run near 130mph.

I bet you don't get any better than 124mph :)

End of the day mate -9s aren't going to flow 380rwkw @ 18psi, that's the simple truth.

True, I also referred back to the dyno comparisons spreadsheet on here and the -9's (GT-SS section) average at 303.1kw at 18.3psi which is exactly what I'm aiming for.

Maybe Cobra was running ridiculous boost? Some guys get around the 330-340kw mark with 22psi....but even that is still 40 odd HP short of 500. Not sure how far the -9's can be cranked but if you can run R33 N1s up to 25-26psi then I'm sure you can do that with the 9's as well....and that might be getting you quite close to say 360kw even though there'd be more heat created than anything else....guess it depends on where the -9's sweet spot is.

There'd always be some people out there who push parts to or past their limits....like Xkalaba and his ceramics :yes:

Edited by tommis85

Already did. Last intervention in this thread.

I'm just trying to help out the folk considering buying the GT-SS and all I get is whining and '' your a liar'' i don't believe you'' . Well, unless you pay the plane to ship my car and me to australia, unfertunately, you will never see me rollin on your drag strip.

Look at some japanese setup, they can achieve 600whp with gt-ss.

Jing R34 GTR

http://blog.nengun.c...26-tuning-world

The Jing R34 GTR has been slightly modified with Tomei and Reimax internals and two low mount HKS GT-SS turbo's. Generating 1.3kg/cm2 of boost and producing 467ps this GTR has been perfectly tuned for the street. Volk Racing CE28N wheels cover Brembo Monoblock brakes and Ohlins DFV suspension.

The concept from Jing was to retain the standard engine and easy maintenance and combine it with improved power, torque and appearance. While mildly modified, this R34 looked great.

at 18psi he managed to make 467hp but he doesnt talk about any cam and cam gear tuning etc etc. just a standard RB26, nothing else. Add bolt-on power adder and he could easily break the 500hp marks.

Okay I'm seriously done here. do your own research, I did 3 years ago, and I'm 100% happy that I went with gt-ss instead of -5 or -7

Edited by cobrAA

Already did. Last intervention in this thread.

I'm just trying to help out the folk considering buying the GT-SS and all I get is whining and '' your a liar'' i don't believe you'' . Well, unless you pay the plane to ship my car and me to australia, unfertunately, you will never see me rollin on your drag strip.

Look at some japanese setup, they can achieve 600whp with gt-ss.

We're just all very astounded that's all mate. Like Piggaz asked, do you have any examples to load up? Even some video of your own car in action?

Edited by tommis85

Jing R34 GTR

http://blog.nengun.c...26-tuning-world

The Jing R34 GTR has been slightly modified with Tomei and Reimax internals and two low mount HKS GT-SS turbo's. Generating 1.3kg/cm2 of boost and producing 467ps this GTR has been perfectly tuned for the street. Volk Racing CE28N wheels cover Brembo Monoblock brakes and Ohlins DFV suspension.

The concept from Jing was to retain the standard engine and easy maintenance and combine it with improved power, torque and appearance. While mildly modified, this R34 looked great.

at 18psi he managed to make 467hp but he doesnt talk about any cam and cam gear tuning etc etc.

Okay I'm seriously done here. do your own research, I did 3 years ago, and I'm 100% happy that I went with gt-ss instead of -5 or -7

Either way, even if hks gtss can make 380 odd kw, a bigger turbo would make that much eaiser and less stress on the internals.

Though do you have hks gtss or -9s. Even though most say its the same dam tubo, There is a comp sheet thats shows otherwise. but thats not the real point here

Edited by sydking

Hoping to have mine at about 25 psi,

Though if its not making much extra power past 20 then theres no real point pushing them in my books

So where are you at with your ride these days Sydking? From memory you were in my boat with too much lag? I've ended up sorting out my actuators and am just waiting to get my diff's sorted and possibly get an EBC of sorts

Did he tune it?

Yes i tuned it. Theres a few bits of info that have not been told with the setup. 2 main factors are built motor and higher comp.

Also all my dyno runs are done in 4th gear. Piggaz had the same question about the end speed with my GTR. I have alot of mechanical sympathy so i dont like to rev the engine to redline on the dyno. Most runs stop around 7000is maybe 7500.

True, I also referred back to the dyno comparisons spreadsheet on here and the -9's (GT-SS section) average at 303.1kw at 18.3psi which is exactly what I'm aiming for.

Maybe Cobra was running ridiculous boost? Some guys get around the 330-340kw mark with 22psi....but even that is still 40 odd HP short of 500. Not sure how far the -9's can be cranked but if you can run R33 N1s up to 25-26psi then I'm sure you can do that with the 9's as well....and that might be getting you quite close to say 360kw even though there'd be more heat created than anything else....guess it depends on where the -9's sweet spot is.

There'd always be some people out there who push parts to or past their limits....like Xkalaba and his ceramics :yes:

CobrAA said 18psi

If he said 28 psi than I would believe him....maybe

But for now I still maintain mostus dynos (mustang excepted)

Over inflate by approx 100hp to what we see here

Generating 1.3kg/cm2 of boost and producing 467ps

That's 340kw... which is nowhere NEAR 600hp. PS is also measured at the motor.

So 340kw, minus drivetrain losses... It's under 300rwkw (at the wheels).

Do you know how to convert?

I'm just trying to help out the folk considering buying the GT-SS and all I get is whining and '' your a liar'' i don't believe you''

you will never see me rollin on your drag strip.

You don't have your own drag strip?

Doesn't matter where the drag strip is, you'll never run more than 124mph - and if you do run 128-130mph, i'll gladly eat my words that you can make 380rwkw @ 18psi on pump gas.

End of the day a turbo can only flow, what it's compressor wheel will allow in terms of airflow. Simply put, at 18psi you cannot make 380rwkw on pump gas. The turbo's are not flowing enough air to do so on a 2.6ltr motor. It's simple fact mate regardless of what you have printed on a piece of paper.

Yes i tuned it. Theres a few bits of info that have not been told with the setup. 2 main factors are built motor and higher comp.

Also all my dyno runs are done in 4th gear. Piggaz had the same question about the end speed with my GTR. I have alot of mechanical sympathy so i dont like to rev the engine to redline on the dyno. Most runs stop around 7000is maybe 7500.

Ah, I assumed you went to 8000 RPM man. Maybe I missed that bit.

Never assume anything haha

Seems like people in here wanna make 20psi @ 3000rpm and make 350kw at wheels LOL

Not me lol gees...I'm hoping to run around 18 pounds for now and make around 280-300kw. I made about 270kw with my N1s so am hoping to improve on that a bit.

Which reminds me, I should throw them up on here for sale :D

Hoping to have mine at about 25 psi,

Though if its not making much extra power past 20 then theres no real point pushing them in my books

The bloke who owned my built engine before me was running GT-SS's and he reckons it made 355rwkw at something 26-28 pound (can't remember the exact figure). Tuned and built by Creatd in Vic, so dunno if their dyno is happy but it was impressive

Edited by GTR_JOEY

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...