Jump to content
SAU Community

Nm35 Turbo

Sidius

By Sidius,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Jetwreck Grand Master

Jetwreck

Posted
Posted

Your "insult" is null and void considering your lemon of an attempt at Stagea ownership. With everything you fkd up on your old Stagea, having a go at me over the colour of my old Stagea is a pretty average effort, even by your standards :)

LolZ

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Sunkist Grand Master

Sunkist

Posted
Posted

Your "insult" is null and void considering your lemon of an attempt at Stagea ownership. With everything you fkd up on your old Stagea, having a go at me over the colour of my old Stagea is a pretty average effort, even by your standards :)

Wow do you need some tampons for that vagina? Lol

Nice way to take a joke hahahahahahahaha

  • 11 months later...
Jetwreck Grand Master

Jetwreck

Posted
Posted (edited)

Going back through this thread makes me laugh.

Anyway to getting to the point of why i'm posting.

I received a M35 today at my house...I'm going to name drop(rosella) so that if you wish to PM him and ask him who he used you can.

To say that I have never been more disappointed at the workmanship on a car before is going to be a big call.....this shop went full Re t a r d!

Firstly I'd like to say that rosella has done nothing wrong but to trust the workshop and "qualified" mechanic's he gave his car to.

So To start off(and this only get worse)
1/ Missing bolt on the back of intake bracket
2/ Loose top suction pipe hose clamp
3/ Suction pipe top bolt finger tight
4/ Suction pipe bottom pipe over tensioned....new stud needed as it was all but snapped
5/ Heat shields overlapping heat shield bolts....I might also add that they were rounded as well.
6/ Cross threaded Actuator bolts into the turbo...re tap needed.
7/ O2 Sensor way over tightened(well at least something was tight)
8/ After loosening the 2 bottom dump pipe bolts the whole dump pipe was flapping in the wind. Further to this there was a nut and bolt at the top that should not have been used at temp....the reason that a bolt was used was because they had drilled the thread through on the turbo rather than retapping it.
9/ Water pipe from the top not bolted on
10/ Oil line bolt not bolted on
11/ Turbo to exhaust manifold studs bolted up with ceased bolts from the turbo to dump side.....all were loose/finger tight with the exception of 1 bolt.
12/ Old line Banjo bolt missing one washer.....so it was pissing out oil everywhere. They tried to fix this by dumping a shit load of gasket goo over it.....this was there full re t a r d moment.....and everyone knows you never go full re t a r d!!!

anyway rant finished.......now to get the turbo back in tomorrow if I can!

Edited by Jetwreck
PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

Wow.

Not a good job. At least we know its in good hands now. Disappointed From a place I thought better of too. However many have been stung by the first time M35 turbo job.

Edit.

I miss Sidius. This thread delivered.

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

I was very disappointed when I heard how this played out; I expect much better from professionals. Even after spending time speaking with the mechanic in question while the work was happening; it has ended badly.

There is nothing worse than paying good money, and trusting specialists with your pride & joy; only to have them abuse that trust & conduct themselves in such a deplorable manner.

There is no question that the individual who worked on this car did a disgraceful job, and should be absolutely ashamed of himself.

To then do even more substandard work, in an attempt to cover up the first lot; is simply unconscionable.

I actually found the missing banjo washer whilst I was helping Russel with another thing that they had left loose a couple of weeks ago.
Foolishly, I had hoped they'd used a new one; but no.

I hope once Rosella gets his car back from Craig, that he takes the photos of this mess to the owner of the business, and asks for an explanation.
He certainly deserves one.

As Alex has said; at least he can rest assured it is being done properly this time, and that the whole sordid business doesn't leave a sour taste in his mouth.

I and others have managed to do this exact job on our own cars, with no more of an advantage than these guys have; so the "but it's a hard car to work on" rubbish, doesn't wash with me even a little bit.

Also; Sidius was great.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • The Bogan
      SAU NSW - R U OK? Southern Highlands Cruise

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...