Jump to content
SAU Community

4Wd Light Now Permanently On

Sage222

By Sage222,
in Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

6 speed conversion buddy. Should have done it last time the box melted. Its a shame loosing the AWD but the weight saving alone will make it all worth while I think.

I'm so over the auto, why won't it just shift when I tell it to...

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

I'm so over the auto, why won't it just shift when I tell it to...

A= BFS - numbers in map are too low. Low numbers = slow shifts; but don't know how you'd go about changing that since your injectors are controlled by F-con, correct?.

6 speed sounds like the best solution for you though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Shifts are fast but the time it takes to decide is a joke. Usually it just bounces off the 7500 limiter on wot, not good at this power. Plus the gearbox won't drop in to a lower gear until the shaft speed has slowed enough, it's horrible changing gears in corners...

Added to the usual crappy reaction times, the box can only do 2 laps of PI without overheating, and causing weird transmission faults.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Not much point if it cant hold the power, even if I could fit the PM35 box. I'm not going down the 33/34 GTR box either, a whole can of worms.

As the easiest, most logical and cheapest option I decided on the 350Z box. At least I can swap back if I ever need to... But I will be leaving the console handbrake. ;)

Rather than clutter this Attessa thread I will start another to discuss it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...
Sage222 Rising Star

Sage222

Posted
  • Author
Posted

so i took my baby to kewish (thanks scott). Error came up as 4WD Actuator Relay C1205.

Sounds relatively inexpensive :) (i hope).

Anyone done one of these? Advise on where it is and part number would be appreciated.

Thanks gents.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
pomnz Enthusiast

pomnz

Posted
Posted

Go to page 20 in the attachment, in the picture marked A the smaller item on the left labeled "E-TS アクチュエーターリレ" is the E-TS actuator relay. It's basically just beside the 4wd ecu, below the attesa fluid reservoir which is all in the boot wall behind the storage thingo on the drivers side.

I :wub: Google translate.

TF - Transfer.pdf

Link to comment
Share on other sites
pomnz Enthusiast

pomnz

Posted
Posted

Hmm not really clear, if you look in the attachment for pressure switch

圧力SW

or

圧力スイッチ

There are a few references but it's more about testing the functionality rather than where it is located. Try and find out the code and that will probably help otherwise if you have a multimeter and know what you are doing there are a few voltage and continuity tests you could do, let me know if you need more help.

There is also this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/402973-m35-attesa-ets-pressure-switch-problems/

What symptoms are you having?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Brick Mentor

Brick

Posted
Posted

Hmm not really clear, if you look in the attachment for pressure switch

圧力SW

or

圧力スイッチ

There are a few references but it's more about testing the functionality rather than where it is located. Try and find out the code and that will probably help otherwise if you have a multimeter and know what you are doing there are a few voltage and continuity tests you could do, let me know if you need more help.

There is also this thread http://www.skylinesa...witch-problems/

What symptoms are you having?

My prob sounds very similar to that post except i'm not getting the pump chirping. Also when my light comes on i loose 4wd all together(which is fun in the wet haha) i would say 90% of the time its ok, and seems very spiratic when it fails, just seems to fail at any random time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
pomnz Enthusiast

pomnz

Posted
Posted

You could try getting your battery tested I know that these cars seem to start acting strange when the battery starts to go. Otherwise I would try the multimeter tests mentioned in the service manual.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gram
      Rb25det neo issue tps voltage

      By Gram · Posted

      hey GTSboy thanks for the quick reply. im on stock ECU  Surprisngly enough i unplug everything and replug everything, readings are still off but the car drove...ok haha So far this is what i have done. - Replaced ECU (still 1.5v) - Replaced Boost sensor (still 1.5v) Now the next thing i tried is to unplug the TPS and only plug in the Boost sensor to see if it reads 5v. No it still only read 1.5v.  Its a new boost sensor and i know i have 5v if i dont plug the sensor back in, so that means the power wire is good. So now im thinking that it might be a bad ground on the boost sensor plug.  on the FSM says the ground to the boost sensor is  a sensor ground, can i add a ground wire from the boost sensor ground wire to the the engine itself to ground it? or chassis?
    • GTSBoy
      Rb25det neo issue tps voltage

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      OK, so, assuming that there is nothing wrong with either the original or new boost sensor, then it would seem that there might be something wrong in the loom wiring to that sensor. This is troublesome, because if that were true, then you might expect the problem to persist when the sensor was unplugged. But seeing as the voltage comes good when it is unplugged, it would suggest that the fault might (and I stress might) be right at the loom plug. Either that, or the fault might be at the ECU, on the line in from the boost sensor. When you unplug the boost sensor, that input at the ECU is isolated from the TPS sensor and can't affect it. This would be semi-bad, as an ECU problem is never welcome, but at least you'd know where the problem is and it might be fixable, or at least replaceable. Do you have Nistune, or any other way of looking at ECU data? I'd want to drive the car around with the boost sensor unplugged and see the TPS working properly, then not working properly with the sensor plugged back in. You're not trying to run more than ~18 psi either? Right? Because even with Nistune that can be difficult with the boost sensor connected. Just checking, in case it might have some bearing on the issue. It shouldn't cause the voltage situation you're seeing though.
    • The Bogan
      My BMW 335i

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Need something reliable, like a Mazda (non-rotary), or a Honda, or a .......... Commodore 🤣, the only issue with my cars is me 🫤
    • PranK
      Like loud exhausts? You could be a psychopath.

      By PranK · Posted

      Definitely a psychopath. 
    • PranK
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By PranK · Posted

      Then sell it and buy a BMW! I can totally relate to this (except the money part! ). I think for me I need to remind myself that I do enjoy the process and to stop being so damn impatient and eager to get it done. That just leads to frustration and broken stuff.  Built not bought. Wait.  Fixed, not fought? No ... Definitely fighting things. Definitely not fixed, I give up. Cars are pain.  
×
×
  • Create New...