Jump to content
SAU Community

Misfire From Hell..

arrydjay

By arrydjay,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

arrydjay Community Regular

arrydjay

Posted
Posted

So my car was missing under boost...I tried second hand yellowjackets and new plugs at 0.8... Still misses...

Then I do a turbo upgrade with pretty much everything new.. Both manifolds, injectors PFC fuel pump etc.... Still misses...

Today I went and bought new splitfires and put em in...miss got worse.... Now it's like really loud backfiring... Different to before.

Has anyone got any ideas to help me solve this problem.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403712-misfire-from-hell/
Share on other sites
Don Dada Mentor

Don Dada

Posted
Posted

Youve added a shit load of stuff to the equation now....should have sorted it before the upgrade, but still check CAS and make sure the blue plug on the ecu is in evenly, pressing in the ends and not over tightening the 10mm bolt, And I assume u changed the afm to Z32?

When you say backfire, on accel or decel?

arrydjay Community Regular

arrydjay

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah it's missing on accel and sounds almost like a rev limiter with lots of little backfires..

Yeah it's a z32 afm and Toshi tuned it, we did what we could but we stopped when it was missing and I was going to go back and finish the tune once it's fixed.

Pezhead Grand Master

Pezhead

Posted
Posted

Try gapping down your plugs to 0.6-0.65. I just did that and sorted my cutting problem at 0.8 Bar. Now good all the way to 1.4 Bar. I think my coils are loosing power so confirms that it is spark related.

Running that gap now with no probs at all, until the shop warms up to re-mount my coils (I run bosch coil set-up).

Don Dada Mentor

Don Dada

Posted
Posted

Dont think its actually the coils..For reference my splitfires had enough juice to run a gtx30 @20psi with wmi and 1.1mm gap

Sounds like an electrical gremlin....As said before check coil pack loom, ignitor if you have one, also make sure all earthing on the engine and batt terminals are clean and tight and again CAS

What plugs you running?

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

So if you get mad backfiring an high in the rev range it could be leaning out coz of the pump?

Definitely, mine did the same thing today on the dyno, changed coils, gapped plugs, no change. Ended up being one of the pos Walbro 342's not pumping properly. It seems they need to be fully submerged to operate at maximum flow, unless its just faulty... I was hoping the deatschwerks didn't have the same design flaw as this fault was occurring at 1/3 tank.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...