Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I've been thinking a bit about the automatic door lock at 25kph on the r33's

There is 4 wires at each door solonoid, so is it possible that one of these wires could send the 25kph lock signal to the solonoid? if it does it means at each solonoid we can just cut a wire to disable the feature on each door so that we can also keep the rear demister.

Maybe someone here knows what each of these 4 wires are. I know from when i put an actuator in the drivers door that there appears to be no unlock wire going to them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/404329-automatic-door-lock-at-25kph/
Share on other sites

Hi,

I've been thinking a bit about the automatic door lock at 25kph on the r33's

There is 4 wires at each door solonoid, so is it possible that one of these wires could send the 25kph lock signal to the solonoid? if it does it means at each solonoid we can just cut a wire to disable the feature on each door so that we can also keep the rear demister.

Maybe someone here knows what each of these 4 wires are. I know from when i put an actuator in the drivers door that there appears to be no unlock wire going to them.

It's a feature on these skylines that when you go over 25kph your doors automatically lock which is kinda annoying. I'm trying to find a solution other than the one that's already known which is cutting a green wire at the smart entrance module, which also disables the rear demister...

Yep Factory.

My S2 33 Sedan, at 25k's locks all 4 and if you try to unlock while driving, they lock straight away.

Doesn't unlock when I stop and switch the ignition off and I always go to get out but can't til I flick the switch.

Found this thread about it too.

http://www.skylinesa...3%20door%20lock

Edited by Not a Pulsar

My drivers door never had it but my passenger door used to lock at around 20kmh

then one day the passenger door solenoid stuffed up so I got one from a S2 R33 (NA) and put it in my S1 and it never locked above 20kmh since. So think the OP Might be on to it as I'm pretty sure theres one less wire on the S2 Solenoid as it might be done from elsewhere in the S2's

My drivers door never had it but my passenger door used to lock at around 20kmh

then one day the passenger door solenoid stuffed up so I got one from a S2 R33 (NA) and put it in my S1 and it never locked above 20kmh since. So think the OP Might be on to it as I'm pretty sure theres one less wire on the S2 Solenoid as it might be done from elsewhere in the S2's

That sounds hopeful :) will test with the passenger door after work to find out if this idea will work

Unfortunately this idea has proven not to be a solution. there is only two wires that control the unlock and lock functions, you can cut both the other two and it will still lock and unlock... so i wonder what the other two wires are there for?

Have just thought of another way this may be possible. Reverse the lock and unlock wires at each solonoid, this way hopefully when you hit 25Kph the car would be checking to make sure the doors are unlocked and if not unlock them.

Will just go out to the car and test this.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...