Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey just fitted a electronic boost controller to my 34 and have a few queries.

Firstly the manual says to use the fuel pressure reg as a source for the vacuum, but I had a blonde moment and tee'd it in on the vacuum line that runs between the manifold and that fuel valve that runs to the fuel filter. Can't find the name but it sits just above the fuel pressure reg and as I said it returns to the fuel filter. I assume it increases the flow of the fuel when the engines under load/boost.

My controller seems to be working ok but just to confirm is this ok or should I run it directly between the fuel pressure reg and the manifold?

Secondly I'm looking to install a boost gauge, now since i've used a line going off the manifold for the vacuum source would it be ok to use the line that runs from there to the back of the boost controller to tee in the boost gauge?

The way I see it instead of running a line all the way between the actator and solenoid with the gauge tee'd in between the manifold and the controller the gauge will be seeing manifold pressure which is the same as the boost controller.

Am I totally wrong and will this not work and cause problems with the controller functioning properly?

Cheers for any help

Any boost source off the manifold is fine. I'd rather not take it from the Fuel pressure reg cause then thats two lines that can split and result in incorrect fueling due to the FPR getting the wrong boost reading

Boost gauge is the same thing. And yes my theory is its best if your gauge and controller are both seeing the same boost from the same source. You cant hook your boost gauge into the line that runs to the actuator as this is taken off the IC piping usually which means it wont really see vaccum.

Manifold pressure will be needed for both controller and gauge. And taking them from the same spot is the best to ensure there both seeing the same boost

There is a line off the back of the plenum that runs to the car's own MAP sensor (used for the dash gauge, and in the case of the R34, there's a second MAP sensor that the ECU uses to look at boost). This line makes sense to tee into, as you know that it sees proper manifold pressure, and it is not associated with the FPR (and the inherent risk of losing all vital MAP sensing at the same time, as stated by Cal above).

Yeah I see your point ill find another source for the Boost gauge and the controller off the manifold I've seen a few people hook up boost gauges off the back of the manifold somewhere near the brake booster.

Cheers

  • 1 year later...

I thought I'd resurrect this thread rather than starting a new one. An EBC seems pretty easy to install but I've got a couple of questions as I haven't done one before.

I just got a second hand Blitz Dual-SBC Spec R EBC (thanks fantov!) to replace the current boost controller, a TurboTech V2, on my R34 GTT. This is the Blitz that comes with the big black dual solenoid box:

post-15500-0-64083100-1390899568.jpg

My current manual boost controller is tee'd off between the intake manifold and stock BOV, with the out pipe running to the turbo actuator. Do I just replace it with the new solenoid?

The Blitz manual also says the following:

For vehicles equipped with a stock solenoid, locate the factory T and remove the factory solenoid line from the factory "T". Then cap off the stock solenoid line. Leave the factory solenoid in the vehicle still connected to factory electrical harness.

Where's the stock solenoid? Will disconnecting this upset my ECU or Nistune?

Also, if I was to set the EBC close to the same setting as my manual boost controller (around 17psi), would it work ok without touching up the tune? Or is this kind of thing best done on the dyno? I don't have a boost gauge in the car and certainly don't want to overboost it...

The Blitz manual is available here. Thanks and sorry about all the newbie questions :)

1) get the vacuum source off the intake manifold. That way the EBC sees the total boost after any boost drops (FMIC etc)
2) I wouldn't use the hose from intake manifold to bov for the solenoid. I would locate where the factory solonoid picks its boost source from and run off that.

1) get the vacuum source off the intake manifold. That way the EBC sees the total boost after any boost drops (FMIC etc)

2) I wouldn't use the hose from intake manifold to bov for the solenoid. I would locate where the factory solonoid picks its boost source from and run off that.

Thanks! So by the looks of things, the line that currently runs into the manual boost controller (from between manifold and BOV) should go to the Blitz controller (i.e. vacuum source).

Can someone confirm which connector is IN and which is OUT in the stock solenoid? I've currently got the bottom hose disconnected (uncapped), I'm guessing that could be the actuator line? See pics below.

12405345963_d7aa45ede5_z.jpg

12405654104_30db2d214e.jpg

12405652814_b4fe530ed7_o.jpg

Yeah you could keep that "t-peice" from manifold to bov for the vacuum source if you like.

Regarding the solenoid set-up. From the manifold should be your "in" and to the actuator should be your "out"

Yeah you could keep that "t-peice" from manifold to bov for the vacuum source if you like.

Regarding the solenoid set-up. From the manifold should be your "in" and to the actuator should be your "out"

Thanks!

I'm still trying to work out which connector on the stock solenoid is 'in' and which is 'out', anyone know?

Also, where's the 'in' line to the stock solenoid connected to, in the standard setup?

It's only an air valve, it doesn't matter.

Just make sure you have the restrictor in the hose or boost will skyrocket on the stock setup.

Thanks Scott. I'm only asking because the Blitz dual solenoid has clearly marked In and Out, just want to make sure it'll be connected 100% correct.

EDIT: Another question for you Scott: I assume I can keep the stock solenoid wired in (electrical) even with the hoses removed? This shouldn't confuse the ECU/Nistune, should it?

Edited by V28VX37

I assume I can keep the stock solenoid wired in (electrical) even with the hoses removed? This shouldn't confuse the ECU/Nistune, should it?

Will be the best way, and run some fake hoses to somewhere, so they look like they are connected to something, otherwise you could get defected easily.

If you unplugged it you would throw an error code (on the stock computer) but I assume the Nistune can fix that in the software.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...