Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey just fitted a electronic boost controller to my 34 and have a few queries.

Firstly the manual says to use the fuel pressure reg as a source for the vacuum, but I had a blonde moment and tee'd it in on the vacuum line that runs between the manifold and that fuel valve that runs to the fuel filter. Can't find the name but it sits just above the fuel pressure reg and as I said it returns to the fuel filter. I assume it increases the flow of the fuel when the engines under load/boost.

My controller seems to be working ok but just to confirm is this ok or should I run it directly between the fuel pressure reg and the manifold?

Secondly I'm looking to install a boost gauge, now since i've used a line going off the manifold for the vacuum source would it be ok to use the line that runs from there to the back of the boost controller to tee in the boost gauge?

The way I see it instead of running a line all the way between the actator and solenoid with the gauge tee'd in between the manifold and the controller the gauge will be seeing manifold pressure which is the same as the boost controller.

Am I totally wrong and will this not work and cause problems with the controller functioning properly?

Cheers for any help

Any boost source off the manifold is fine. I'd rather not take it from the Fuel pressure reg cause then thats two lines that can split and result in incorrect fueling due to the FPR getting the wrong boost reading

Boost gauge is the same thing. And yes my theory is its best if your gauge and controller are both seeing the same boost from the same source. You cant hook your boost gauge into the line that runs to the actuator as this is taken off the IC piping usually which means it wont really see vaccum.

Manifold pressure will be needed for both controller and gauge. And taking them from the same spot is the best to ensure there both seeing the same boost

There is a line off the back of the plenum that runs to the car's own MAP sensor (used for the dash gauge, and in the case of the R34, there's a second MAP sensor that the ECU uses to look at boost). This line makes sense to tee into, as you know that it sees proper manifold pressure, and it is not associated with the FPR (and the inherent risk of losing all vital MAP sensing at the same time, as stated by Cal above).

Yeah I see your point ill find another source for the Boost gauge and the controller off the manifold I've seen a few people hook up boost gauges off the back of the manifold somewhere near the brake booster.

Cheers

  • 1 year later...

I thought I'd resurrect this thread rather than starting a new one. An EBC seems pretty easy to install but I've got a couple of questions as I haven't done one before.

I just got a second hand Blitz Dual-SBC Spec R EBC (thanks fantov!) to replace the current boost controller, a TurboTech V2, on my R34 GTT. This is the Blitz that comes with the big black dual solenoid box:

post-15500-0-64083100-1390899568.jpg

My current manual boost controller is tee'd off between the intake manifold and stock BOV, with the out pipe running to the turbo actuator. Do I just replace it with the new solenoid?

The Blitz manual also says the following:

For vehicles equipped with a stock solenoid, locate the factory T and remove the factory solenoid line from the factory "T". Then cap off the stock solenoid line. Leave the factory solenoid in the vehicle still connected to factory electrical harness.

Where's the stock solenoid? Will disconnecting this upset my ECU or Nistune?

Also, if I was to set the EBC close to the same setting as my manual boost controller (around 17psi), would it work ok without touching up the tune? Or is this kind of thing best done on the dyno? I don't have a boost gauge in the car and certainly don't want to overboost it...

The Blitz manual is available here. Thanks and sorry about all the newbie questions :)

1) get the vacuum source off the intake manifold. That way the EBC sees the total boost after any boost drops (FMIC etc)
2) I wouldn't use the hose from intake manifold to bov for the solenoid. I would locate where the factory solonoid picks its boost source from and run off that.

1) get the vacuum source off the intake manifold. That way the EBC sees the total boost after any boost drops (FMIC etc)

2) I wouldn't use the hose from intake manifold to bov for the solenoid. I would locate where the factory solonoid picks its boost source from and run off that.

Thanks! So by the looks of things, the line that currently runs into the manual boost controller (from between manifold and BOV) should go to the Blitz controller (i.e. vacuum source).

Can someone confirm which connector is IN and which is OUT in the stock solenoid? I've currently got the bottom hose disconnected (uncapped), I'm guessing that could be the actuator line? See pics below.

12405345963_d7aa45ede5_z.jpg

12405654104_30db2d214e.jpg

12405652814_b4fe530ed7_o.jpg

Yeah you could keep that "t-peice" from manifold to bov for the vacuum source if you like.

Regarding the solenoid set-up. From the manifold should be your "in" and to the actuator should be your "out"

Yeah you could keep that "t-peice" from manifold to bov for the vacuum source if you like.

Regarding the solenoid set-up. From the manifold should be your "in" and to the actuator should be your "out"

Thanks!

I'm still trying to work out which connector on the stock solenoid is 'in' and which is 'out', anyone know?

Also, where's the 'in' line to the stock solenoid connected to, in the standard setup?

It's only an air valve, it doesn't matter.

Just make sure you have the restrictor in the hose or boost will skyrocket on the stock setup.

Thanks Scott. I'm only asking because the Blitz dual solenoid has clearly marked In and Out, just want to make sure it'll be connected 100% correct.

EDIT: Another question for you Scott: I assume I can keep the stock solenoid wired in (electrical) even with the hoses removed? This shouldn't confuse the ECU/Nistune, should it?

Edited by V28VX37

I assume I can keep the stock solenoid wired in (electrical) even with the hoses removed? This shouldn't confuse the ECU/Nistune, should it?

Will be the best way, and run some fake hoses to somewhere, so they look like they are connected to something, otherwise you could get defected easily.

If you unplugged it you would throw an error code (on the stock computer) but I assume the Nistune can fix that in the software.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oof, I will forevermore have those shredded gears in mind whenever someone talks about showing mechanical sympathy towards their car. Thanks for the photos, fascinating stuff!
    • Curious to see how the SpeedTek stuff holds up
    • The holdups last year were drivetrain related. I had the car out right after getting the bearing issue resolved. Third launch and the car didn't move after releasing the clutch. It had sheared all the engagement teeth off the 1st gear.    Thankfully no other damage was done. I set an aftermarket gear beside an OEM gear and found that the engagement teeth on the OEM gear were much larger and better supported. Looking through my bin of spare transmission gears I found that there are two types of tooth on the OEM first gears - the larger tooth and the smaller tooth. It looks like most aftermarket gearset manufacturers base their design on the smaller tooth. OEM large tooth left - Speedtek, OS Giken, etc or OEM small tooth right Decided to give that larger engagement tooth a try. Pressed the ring off an OEM gear and sent it to a transmission manufacturer here in the States. They did their "faceplating" operation with my synchro ring on the Speedtek gear.   I reassembled it, took it back to the track and promptly destroyed the gear itself.  I'll rebuild this and use it as a spare - thankfully just first gear and the countershaft are damaged beyond repair. Definitely disheartening but my welded on engagement tooth ring held up!  Moved to Speedtek's dog engagement design as the gears appear to be much stronger. So far they have taken much more abuse at the track. Also scored a Stillway lockout from the Netherands for super cheap. It's for some other RB transmission so it took a bit of fabrication to fit but honestly a very easy job. I also had to heavily modify the gates as they were very different.   Then for some reason at the last test and tune a silicon coupler below the throttle blew off and took out the radiator and fan. Thankfully it was in the burnout box and not down track. This car is really beating me up - I still haven't made a pass in it. Ran it through the gears many times on the street but it keeps biting me at the track.  Currently in the process of replacing the radiator and remaking the throttle pipe to remove the coupler and use a cast 90 and a vband. I WILL get this thing down the track...
    • Covers most of the above points really. There's a few exceptions but most just see driving as an irritating but necessary task they must complete if they want to get anywhere on time. Also see it as a good time to show their awesome multi-tasking abilities on their mobile and/or doing their makeup.  
    • I don't believe I posted pictures of the second oil pump pickup I added so here they are. Data shows it gets oil pressure up to the relief pressure much earlier in the RPM. Is that important? Not likely... This was just another attempt to fix the bearing issues.   I also heavily opened up the inlet to the pump since it now had to flow oil from two pickups. I believe the diameter increased about 1/8".
×
×
  • Create New...