Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

man i have 255s nankangs, 300kws and stock diff and besides the crabing my traction is pretty good, I don't understand how so many people have so many problems ... rondolfPineapples will make it ride worse but may make it grip a little better

Offset has nothing to do with it

Your tyres are fine.

If your suspension is too hard its possibly an issue..

Dammit, Diff time it is then. Here comes another 5 hours searching whats good and what fits :/

GTS-4 Coupe 2498cc Petrol 5MT FULL4WD - Standard Feature Limited slip differential

im assuming same diff type at the 33 GTSt boys are running. Hmm.

Edited by sydking

man i have 255s nankangs, 300kws and stock diff and besides the crabing my traction is pretty good, I don't understand how so many people have so many problems ... rondolfPineapples will make it ride worse but may make it grip a little better

Offset has nothing to do with it

Your tyres are fine.

If your suspension is too hard its possibly an issue..

pineapples can be set up for different purposes

A car that shudders and chirps when on full lock mean what diff? casue that what mine does,

After a bit of reading r33s2 A LSD was factory.

I always thought it was my ATTESSA doing the chipring on full lock ;/

if you put more throttle in when it shudders does it then go away?

if so... mechanical LSD.. usually shudders when on light load turning. more throttle or in neutral should stop it shuddering

  • 2 weeks later...

Ok the plan is to get the rear suspension looked over inc ball joints and Hicas rack ends . If it comes up ok its getting a lock bar fitted soon and an alignment probably at the same time . SK said to check where the "pinapples" were fitted as in above or below the subframe , he said there is three possible settings to enhance rear grip normal or drift and its to do with sumframe angles . Drift is useless to me so will look at the normal or rear squat/grip setting .

The rear tyre has worn a little more on the nearside which people tell me is not unusual , they have worn further that I'd have though but are easily legal . I suspect alignment and or the single sided viscous coupling has had some say in this .

I spoke to Gary about size vs best technology and with 10mm the difference he reckons go with the tech so looking at a pair of Pilot Super Sports in 245/45/17 . I really wish Michelin did these in 255/40 but thats life .

A .

Edited by discopotato03

Ok the plan is to get the rear suspension looked over inc ball joints and Hicas rack ends . If it comes up ok its getting a lock bar fitted soon and an alignment probably at the same time . SK said to check where the "pinapples" were fitted as in above or below the subframe , he said there is three possible settings to enhance rear grip normal or drift and its to do with sumframe angles . Drift is useless to me so will look at the normal or rear squat/grip setting .

The rear tyre has worn a little more on the nearside which people tell me is not unusual , they have worn further that I'd have though but are easily legal . I suspect alignment and or the single sided viscous coupling has had some say in this .

I spoke to Gary about size vs best technology and with 10mm the difference he reckons go with the tech so looking at a pair of Pilot Super Sports in 245/45/17 . I really wish Michelin did these in 255/40 but thats life .

A .

Unless you are getting those REALLY cheap I'd suggest Federal RSR.

  • 3 weeks later...

Pilot Super Sports on the water and lock bar fitted today . They found a few things loose in the nearside rear links but the front was spot on five years and 14k after being fitted . It feels different without Hicas steering the rear , I think it tried to make the driver feel that these cars were agile without necessarily being agile . I have an old copy of Wheels or Motor kicking around that had a write up of Jim Richards first drives of the R32 GTR roads cars that I think ended up as racers . From memory he said that Hicas made the cars easier to drive but not faster . I just wanted my cars inputs to be mine and if I can lose a bit of weight and have it predictable so much the better .

Function is everything , cheers A .

Actually must search for a DIY of how to get at that HICAS dash light and make it mind its own business . I dont suppose the wiring can be doctored at the Hicas computer to make is go away ?

On an R32, the trick to disable HICAS (and the light) without having to dismantle anything else was just to pull the smaller of the two loom plugs from the HICAS computer. Pull the big one and things went bad. But the small one would lock the HICAS rack and not put a light up on the dash. You could try that on the R33, even though the systems aren't the same.

The less easy but still easy way is to simply take the globe out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Mixing things up - installed some leather recaros to match the leather seat covered rear seats. Interior looks pretty schmick now except for some slight wear on the steering wheel which I will monitor and address if it becomes worse or actually noticeable!  
    • Didnt realise RB's had more then 1 head.
    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
×
×
  • Create New...