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man i have 255s nankangs, 300kws and stock diff and besides the crabing my traction is pretty good, I don't understand how so many people have so many problems ... rondolfPineapples will make it ride worse but may make it grip a little better

Offset has nothing to do with it

Your tyres are fine.

If your suspension is too hard its possibly an issue..

Dammit, Diff time it is then. Here comes another 5 hours searching whats good and what fits :/

GTS-4 Coupe 2498cc Petrol 5MT FULL4WD - Standard Feature Limited slip differential

im assuming same diff type at the 33 GTSt boys are running. Hmm.

Edited by sydking

man i have 255s nankangs, 300kws and stock diff and besides the crabing my traction is pretty good, I don't understand how so many people have so many problems ... rondolfPineapples will make it ride worse but may make it grip a little better

Offset has nothing to do with it

Your tyres are fine.

If your suspension is too hard its possibly an issue..

pineapples can be set up for different purposes

A car that shudders and chirps when on full lock mean what diff? casue that what mine does,

After a bit of reading r33s2 A LSD was factory.

I always thought it was my ATTESSA doing the chipring on full lock ;/

if you put more throttle in when it shudders does it then go away?

if so... mechanical LSD.. usually shudders when on light load turning. more throttle or in neutral should stop it shuddering

  • 2 weeks later...

Ok the plan is to get the rear suspension looked over inc ball joints and Hicas rack ends . If it comes up ok its getting a lock bar fitted soon and an alignment probably at the same time . SK said to check where the "pinapples" were fitted as in above or below the subframe , he said there is three possible settings to enhance rear grip normal or drift and its to do with sumframe angles . Drift is useless to me so will look at the normal or rear squat/grip setting .

The rear tyre has worn a little more on the nearside which people tell me is not unusual , they have worn further that I'd have though but are easily legal . I suspect alignment and or the single sided viscous coupling has had some say in this .

I spoke to Gary about size vs best technology and with 10mm the difference he reckons go with the tech so looking at a pair of Pilot Super Sports in 245/45/17 . I really wish Michelin did these in 255/40 but thats life .

A .

Edited by discopotato03

Ok the plan is to get the rear suspension looked over inc ball joints and Hicas rack ends . If it comes up ok its getting a lock bar fitted soon and an alignment probably at the same time . SK said to check where the "pinapples" were fitted as in above or below the subframe , he said there is three possible settings to enhance rear grip normal or drift and its to do with sumframe angles . Drift is useless to me so will look at the normal or rear squat/grip setting .

The rear tyre has worn a little more on the nearside which people tell me is not unusual , they have worn further that I'd have though but are easily legal . I suspect alignment and or the single sided viscous coupling has had some say in this .

I spoke to Gary about size vs best technology and with 10mm the difference he reckons go with the tech so looking at a pair of Pilot Super Sports in 245/45/17 . I really wish Michelin did these in 255/40 but thats life .

A .

Unless you are getting those REALLY cheap I'd suggest Federal RSR.

  • 3 weeks later...

Pilot Super Sports on the water and lock bar fitted today . They found a few things loose in the nearside rear links but the front was spot on five years and 14k after being fitted . It feels different without Hicas steering the rear , I think it tried to make the driver feel that these cars were agile without necessarily being agile . I have an old copy of Wheels or Motor kicking around that had a write up of Jim Richards first drives of the R32 GTR roads cars that I think ended up as racers . From memory he said that Hicas made the cars easier to drive but not faster . I just wanted my cars inputs to be mine and if I can lose a bit of weight and have it predictable so much the better .

Function is everything , cheers A .

Actually must search for a DIY of how to get at that HICAS dash light and make it mind its own business . I dont suppose the wiring can be doctored at the Hicas computer to make is go away ?

On an R32, the trick to disable HICAS (and the light) without having to dismantle anything else was just to pull the smaller of the two loom plugs from the HICAS computer. Pull the big one and things went bad. But the small one would lock the HICAS rack and not put a light up on the dash. You could try that on the R33, even though the systems aren't the same.

The less easy but still easy way is to simply take the globe out.

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