Jump to content
SAU Community

Traction Issues R33 Gts25T .

discopotato03
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

man i have 255s nankangs, 300kws and stock diff and besides the crabing my traction is pretty good, I don't understand how so many people have so many problems ... rondolfPineapples will make it ride worse but may make it grip a little better

Offset has nothing to do with it

Your tyres are fine.

If your suspension is too hard its possibly an issue..

sydking Veteran

sydking

Posted
Posted (edited)

Dammit, Diff time it is then. Here comes another 5 hours searching whats good and what fits :/

GTS-4 Coupe 2498cc Petrol 5MT FULL4WD - Standard Feature Limited slip differential

im assuming same diff type at the 33 GTSt boys are running. Hmm.

Edited by sydking
joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted

man i have 255s nankangs, 300kws and stock diff and besides the crabing my traction is pretty good, I don't understand how so many people have so many problems ... rondolfPineapples will make it ride worse but may make it grip a little better

Offset has nothing to do with it

Your tyres are fine.

If your suspension is too hard its possibly an issue..

pineapples can be set up for different purposes

Simon-S14 Grand Master

Simon-S14

Posted
Posted

A car that shudders and chirps when on full lock mean what diff? casue that what mine does,

After a bit of reading r33s2 A LSD was factory.

I always thought it was my ATTESSA doing the chipring on full lock ;/

if you put more throttle in when it shudders does it then go away?

if so... mechanical LSD.. usually shudders when on light load turning. more throttle or in neutral should stop it shuddering

  • 2 weeks later...
discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Ok the plan is to get the rear suspension looked over inc ball joints and Hicas rack ends . If it comes up ok its getting a lock bar fitted soon and an alignment probably at the same time . SK said to check where the "pinapples" were fitted as in above or below the subframe , he said there is three possible settings to enhance rear grip normal or drift and its to do with sumframe angles . Drift is useless to me so will look at the normal or rear squat/grip setting .

The rear tyre has worn a little more on the nearside which people tell me is not unusual , they have worn further that I'd have though but are easily legal . I suspect alignment and or the single sided viscous coupling has had some say in this .

I spoke to Gary about size vs best technology and with 10mm the difference he reckons go with the tech so looking at a pair of Pilot Super Sports in 245/45/17 . I really wish Michelin did these in 255/40 but thats life .

A .

Edited by discopotato03
simpletool Mentor

simpletool

Posted
Posted

Ok the plan is to get the rear suspension looked over inc ball joints and Hicas rack ends . If it comes up ok its getting a lock bar fitted soon and an alignment probably at the same time . SK said to check where the "pinapples" were fitted as in above or below the subframe , he said there is three possible settings to enhance rear grip normal or drift and its to do with sumframe angles . Drift is useless to me so will look at the normal or rear squat/grip setting .

The rear tyre has worn a little more on the nearside which people tell me is not unusual , they have worn further that I'd have though but are easily legal . I suspect alignment and or the single sided viscous coupling has had some say in this .

I spoke to Gary about size vs best technology and with 10mm the difference he reckons go with the tech so looking at a pair of Pilot Super Sports in 245/45/17 . I really wish Michelin did these in 255/40 but thats life .

A .

Unless you are getting those REALLY cheap I'd suggest Federal RSR.

  • 3 weeks later...
discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Pilot Super Sports on the water and lock bar fitted today . They found a few things loose in the nearside rear links but the front was spot on five years and 14k after being fitted . It feels different without Hicas steering the rear , I think it tried to make the driver feel that these cars were agile without necessarily being agile . I have an old copy of Wheels or Motor kicking around that had a write up of Jim Richards first drives of the R32 GTR roads cars that I think ended up as racers . From memory he said that Hicas made the cars easier to drive but not faster . I just wanted my cars inputs to be mine and if I can lose a bit of weight and have it predictable so much the better .

Function is everything , cheers A .

Actually must search for a DIY of how to get at that HICAS dash light and make it mind its own business . I dont suppose the wiring can be doctored at the Hicas computer to make is go away ?

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

On an R32, the trick to disable HICAS (and the light) without having to dismantle anything else was just to pull the smaller of the two loom plugs from the HICAS computer. Pull the big one and things went bad. But the small one would lock the HICAS rack and not put a light up on the dash. You could try that on the R33, even though the systems aren't the same.

The less easy but still easy way is to simply take the globe out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • uchoa
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Good tips, will get on those tomorrow. When doing the maintenance I did move a few of those connectors around, and things that are old tend to not like moving around. (Like me).
    • GTSBoy
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Don't try it. It will be shit. Better chance of damaging the engine than gaining any knowledge about the old one. Maybe, but unlikely, especially if the O2 sensor is working. You can use NissDataScan to look at the stock ECU.   Cleaning the AFM is seldom necessary and seldom helps. The R35 coil & loom conversion should eliminate dud coils or plugs. But as you still have misses - look to the plug where the coil loom connects to the engine loom, and the CAS plug. Need quality connections there. Also look to injector plugs. And the AFM plug while you're at it. Also look to whether your injectors are clean and flowing evenly. Get them out and onto a testbench.
    • uchoa
      Howdy from the states.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Good to know, I feel like I am in for a rollercoaster ride that looks like a sine wave. 
    • GTSBoy
      Howdy from the states.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You'll fit right in. Acceptance is the first step.
    • uchoa
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Hey folks. I've been lurking and browsing the forum for a while, since I got into my head that I wanted a skyline. Having purchased an overpriced completely stock GTT, (only "mods" it has is HKS pod filter and catback) now that it became legal in the US, it was all glorious and sututu noises here and there. But then I wanted to do things right and went to do basic maintenance. After all the fluids, filters done, I did the spark plugs, that's when the problems started.. First the car started spluttering at around 4.5k RPM. Which I gapped down the new plugs and that solved the sputter there, but the car now always misfires at idle with pops when lifting off and shifting 2nd to 3rd. Similar to the issues in this recent thread. I've been banging my head against the wall, reading the threads here and trying suggestions for a couple months now, so decided to start this one to explain exactly what I tried and what is going on. The symptoms of the issue: Idle and low revs misfiring intermittently. You can hear the exhaust tone change and the shakes on the shifter knob. It happens frequently, but doesn't seem to have a rhythm to it. Pops when backing off throttle. It pops and or burbles almost feels like it spits fire when it pops. (Happens mostly in 3rd gear at around 2k RPM). When under load and after 6k RPM, it also pops when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. There's a ticking noise at around 2k RPM in 2nd gear going downhill, seems unrelated though but I am out of educated and downright dumb guesses. Not noticeable lack of power when putting the car into load. The attempted diagnosis and solutions: Unplugging coils when the car is running This did nothing to change the idling and tone shift for every cylinder. Checking the exhaust headers with thermometer They all are within what I'd say it is margin of error of the laser thermometer New spark plugs Tossed two new sets, copper, iridium and using the old ones, still misfiring, even re gapped to 0.8mm, still same thing. MAF cleaned with the "specific" spray cleaner No changes in the issues what so ever. Brand new loom and r35 coil conversion (was going to add the r35 coils anyway) car runs arguably better, still misfires, but seems like does less frequently. Placebo? Code 21 now being thrown, thanks nissan gods. Removed the CAS to check the shaft for play or anything. CAS seems all fine, nothing that indicates any issue, visually speaking. Things to attempted next: Ordered a new MAF (chinesium from Amazon, to be able to return regardless of result). Fuel with proper gas, maybe it is this California water that they sell as gas that is to blame? Plugin the link ECU and check the info using the built in base map. Go back to BMW and eat my rob bearing breakfast without milky oil mixture.   Do any of you have experienced anything like this or have any suggestion?
×
×
  • Create New...