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Ok so after doing a lot of searching it seems like my problems are almost the opposite of what most people experience.

Background info:

car is an r32 GTS with series 1 rb25det I swapped into the car last week.

r33 s1 ecu, stock injectors, stock turbo, stock bov, 5psi of boost just off actuator spring with vacuum line from plenum as i don't have a nipple off the intercooler piping just yet, pcv hooked up as stock, r32 loom with rb25 injector plugs soldered on in place of rb20 injector plugs. Purple label AFM off a J30?, I think, maxima. will put my green label on to see if this makes a difference.

So what the problem is that the car will badly missfire if and be extremly sluggish from anywhere in rev range unless you mash the loud pedal to the floor. It will build 5psi by 2500-3000 rpm but will just slowly rev up to about 4500 where it will suddenly pull and break traction. this is exactly what the old rb20de did except it didn't misfire (or brake traction) and I thought it was just normal. also it runs fairly rich don't know what AFR as I don't have a wide band

The coils "should" be fine as they were off my rb20 and didn't missfire, have copper plugs, don't know what they are gapped to. will check and gap them to 0.8 when i get a chance.

Is there something in the rb20de loom which is different to the rb20det loom which changes something in the engine at 4500 rpm.

Any help would be great.

Thanks Matt

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I have read multiple places that they are the same as an rb25 one except the plug is different. Not sure if it is true, but it runs a lot better than with the green label that I had on the old motor. which has the same numbers on it as the turbo rb20 ones i have seen. the green label on the old motor made this one misfire on just a free rev and run really rich which would imply that the resolution of the non turbo afm is less than the turbo afm. Where as this purple label one revs fine under no load. Do you know if there is a difference between the Non turbo green label and the turbo one. no one seems to know this.

Edited by HR32GTS 4DOOR

Get the correct afm for the engine before trying anything else. The AFM voltage quantifier must match what is written in the ecu to be anygood. Otherwise the ecu will be looking up the incorrect load points.

The afm should work fine, I'll put the green one back on to see if that makes a difference since i didn't drive with that one on because when I started it I thought "this runs like shit the green turbo afm must be different to non turbo." Could it be something to do with the amplifier im using as it's the rb20 one not the rb25 one does the ecu send a different voltage or something?

Ok so I bought new plugs, gapped them to .76, taped up coil packs, changed back to the old green label afm and still same misfire. haven't driven it yet but still misfiring on a rev and a little on idle. I did notice that there was what looked like oil on cylinder 6 plug but just turned out to be petrol mixed with carbon as it dried out quickly. also I ran it with the AFM unplugged and did the same thing so I doubt it is AFM related. Any one have any ideas as im stumped.......

Problem Solved, Turns out doing the wiring at 2am isn't such a good idea, Mixed up the two injector pins which needed to be swapped to run the 33 ecu. making injector 6 jammed open all the time and injector 4 running off the wrong signal.......

  • 2 weeks later...

Ok so I'm posting back in this thread, didn't want to start another.

Also ignore previous posts (except the setup in first post) as that was a different problem.

The problem I have is when I accelerate in any gear the car will make boost but very slowly and not seem to do anything with it also it will make boost really slowly. It feels like there is a flat spot in the power untill about 5000 rpm where it decides to pull like a turbo car should...

It will make 5psi by 3000 but then slowly increase to 8-9 at 4500 which the boost controller is set at. You would think this is a boost controller issue but when it makes the 5psi it just keeps feeling like an NA engine untill 5000 rpm.

I had a similar problem with the last motor (non turbo) when the cam timing was out where it wouldn't make any power until 4500ish rpm, but I have checked the timing and it is spot on.

Also tonight after I went for a drive I noticed the turbine housing was glowing slightly red which would lean towards retarded timing or a blocked cat, but wouldn't a blocked cat have the opposite problem. ie no power up top and fine down low?

The lack in power is not misfiring just a lack in power, the plugs are new and gapped at .76

I have a video of it, I'll try to upload it soon.

Help appreciated.

Thanks Matt

How did you check the timing and are you sure the light wasn't reading double.

As for the turbo glowing red, maybe the coolant line to the turbo is blocked. Since it is a stock turbo, maybe the ceramic exhaust wheel is missing a blade(s) that could account for the laggyness.

The turbine wheel is fine, Checked it before putting the turbo on the engine. Ill drop the exhaust off when I get a chance and hook up a timing light. But the way this thing feels I don't think it is ignition timing.

Also run it straight off the actuator this eliminates anything to do with the boost controller

Yeah had it running off the actuator and made 5 psi fine and spiked to 7 sometimes which i dont really care too much about, but it still felt slow. like it still makes boost and you can hear the turbo spooling but doesn't do much with it.

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