Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah had it running off the actuator and made 5 psi fine and spiked to 7 sometimes which i dont really care too much about, but it still felt slow. like it still makes boost and you can hear the turbo spooling but doesn't do much with it.

Its a stock skyline. U might be expecting too much :)

Get it on a dyno then u will know if it is making the correct power.

Its a stock skyline. U might be expecting too much :)

Get it on a dyno then u will know if it is making the correct power.

Yeah that is what i was kind of starting to think, but it feels slower than my mates old stockish 32 with an rb20det not a 25. its definitely not slow up top is just majorly lacking in midrange torque

Nah wasn't just going up windy point rd or whatever its called in 3rd.

Ok so took the exhaust off and went for a drive. No difference just made more boost (running off gate spring). still sluggish between 3-5000

Should probably post more about the drive with no exhaust. when boost builds the car just gets very loud and droney but once it is past the flat spot it sounds quite normal like it should. can't tell change in sound with exhaust on since quiet exhaust. So probably the timing is just hella retarded I'll hook up a timing light when I get the chance.

  • 5 weeks later...

been a while since I posted here but I finally hooked up a timing light, set it at 15 deg, drove it, made it worse so assumed it was reading double, then tried to do it again but now it wont idle properly, like it will jump between 600-1000 rpm so i can't get a good reading for the timing. turning the screw on the AAC valve does nothing. also if i take the filter off the AFM (AFM still on car tho) it gets a lot worse, like idle drops and eventually stalls. also I connected up the VCT and that did nothing.

  • 1 month later...

Ok so after doing a bit of research I found that I may not have the standard rb25det injectors.

Am I correct to believe that the standard RB25DET injectors are purple?

The plenum on the engine does not have the little nipple on the back of the plenum for the stock boost gage so I believe it may be from a non turbo rb25. (the plenum came off a different engine to the one it is on now)

The injectors on the engine now are red, As said before, am using rb25det computer so I doubt the car would run if non turbo rb25 injectors were used.

Help would be great guys

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It might be worth having a good look at the chassis behind the bumper then; most people prefer the series 2 look so it might have been changed to cheaper parts as part of an earlier repair
    • The car itself a series 2. I was just curious about the headlights and just wanted to confirm that they were series 1. Good to know the rest of the front end is series 1. It’ll be easier for me to find parts on the aftermarket side of things lol
    • If you've wired up the coils & injectors properly, & have the neo CAS loom for the trigger, it should all work. The VCT works the same way so just different plugs between s1 & neo. Assuming DBW if no IAC. Don't bother with the stock boost solenoid with g4x.
    • THERE IS NO IAT SENSOR ON ANY SINGLE TURBO RB. And the one on an RB26 is not for "engine control" - it's really too big and too slow and is only used for over-temp alarming (as far as I can tell). Anyway, you don't have one. You want/need one for the Link, then you need to buy one, find a spot for it, and wire it in. You do know that the stock boost solenoid is not capable of "control", right? It is merely on or off, for the low boost (5 psi) and high boost (7psi), which the ECU enforces mostly based on gear. The stock solenoid is not for PWM control and is not plumbed up in a way to provide it. If you want to control boost properly, then you need a proper MAC valve. And yes, you can wire either of them direct to the ECU. Well, I assume you can - I don't know what the boost solenoid pins on the plug and play Link are capable of. They really should be as capable as any normal Link - but seeing as it is plg and play, it might be limited to stock functionality. Read the doco.   You really do just want to plug stuff together without understanding how it works, right? I can't help you there. I don't know the plug types or pinning on half the stuff you're asking about. If I had to do it I would sit down with the wiring diagrams, the car/looms and a multimeter and work out what is what.
    • Light should be a pressure switch, not a sensor.
×
×
  • Create New...