Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just want to know what WHP numbers I should expect or can acheive with my build (r32 GTR).. Here's the list of what my build will have:

Completely torn down and cleaned block

ACL race bearing (conrod,main,big end)

ARP bolts (conrod,main,big end)

Crank Collar for oil drive clearence issue machined onto stock crank

Stock pistons/rings and rods

ARP head studs

stock head (cleaned and minor port/polish)

Tomei poncams type b

GT2860-5's turbos

Tomei Manifolds

Tomei dumps

Nismo downpipe with veilside catback (deleted cat)

N1 oil pump

N1 water pump

Tomie timing belt

New OEM tensioner/spring

Complete gasket kit

750cc injectors

280lph fuel pump (not sure what company yet)

Power fc d-jetro with MAP sensors

After market I/C (not sure what make)

HKS oil relocation + oil cooler

HKS hard pipe kit

Split fire coil pack

Nismo coppermix twin plate clutch

Hope I haven't missed anything. I would like to know what are my options in WHP, meaning reliable whp, max whp, etc.

Thanks!

Your best answers will be in the rb26 dyno results thread. It will give a good, clear indication of what the -5's are capable of. To use the search function properly..

Go in to the thread.

In the top right hand of your screen, you'll see the search box.

Type in "garret 5". Make sure the option for 'this forum' is selected.

Ta da! You just searched for your answers :)

Short answer... There isnt a single, cut to size answer for you.

^^^rods would be fine with -5's, but pistions & ati/ross balance and a full balance would be good investment.

Also do a bit of research on the n1 oil pump - Some people have had trouble with them, some haven't - just enusre you know the limitations of the rb oil pump deisgn and why they fail before selecting one (personaly, i recommand nitto - they pump everything from oil to crank casing :-))

Some varible cam gears would also be a good investment.

Edit: saw you had poncams down - good choice :banana:

Edited by wedge_r34gtr

the reason why I didn't go with complete forged internals, etc was because I wasn't originally planning on doing a build lol. I bought the upgraded turbos but at the same time the engine was making a strange knocking sound so I decided to try to find the issue before going with better turbo's. Turns out that everything was in good order throughout the engine so I just decided, with the budget I somewhat had, to change things that needed to be changed while the engine was in pieces. I was told by my machine shop that the pistons and rods are in great shape so they only honed and cleaned everything. So new rings and bearings/bolts are changing in the bottom end. I wish I could have completely redone the bottom end and head but its not my time right now :( As for the oil pump, I already have the N1 waiting to be put in but I purchased a crank collar to be certain the clearances between the crank and the oil pump aren't too loose. Fuel pump isn't ordered yet so i'll look for a 350lph pump, any suggestions on makes? Also, does anyone on here have access to FAST, spent a good portion of my day trying to find what year my block is to see if the crank issue was resolved in my block. engine block number is 034837A.

Honestly given pistons are less than $1400, and all you need is a decent set of rod bolts... You are mad if you don't spend that little bit extra.

You'd likely never need to strip it down later to build it further. Just take the head off if/when and tidy it up later on and you are good to go!

Decided to go ahead a purchase some CP forged pistons. I'm kinda stuck on the fuel pump though. I have done alot of searching and research and it seems to me that with the injectors I have and the boost I'll be hitting, a 300lph fuel pump will be enough for me. I've found an apexi fuel pump that looks good, anyone have experience with these?

Maybe look into Nismo pump? Im fairly certain a few of the guys chasing power (400kw+) on here use one? Tried and proven bosch items are always an option..

Or the german one produced for Merc's and the like.. The name escapes me now. Starts with 'p' :/

Maybe look into Nismo pump? Im fairly certain a few of the guys chasing power (400kw+) on here use one? Tried and proven bosch items are always an option..

Or the german one produced for Merc's and the like.. The name escapes me now. Starts with 'p' :/

Like stated above, nismo pumps are good. Expensive but bolt right in... Depends on who tunes it to how much power you will make.

Some people make 400rwkw plus, on mine I only managed 375rwkw and that was with full volts..

Talk to your tuner, he will know what pumps work for what power

Decided to go with the Bosch 044 fuel pump with appropriate fittings, my buddy who is helping me with this project and has also completely rebuilt his gtr recommeneded me it. Also, picked up a Reimax gear set for the oil pump which should solve the N1 oil pump problem. Hope I have everything ready to go as I hate waiting on parts when things could be put back into the car (kinda impatient lol). Does anyone know how to figure out what year the engine is? Anyone use/have FAST? block plate number is 034837A and if i'm not mistaken that seems pretty close to when nissan addressed the crank/oil drive issue, correct?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
    • I am truly amazed someone on this planet was able to cycle the pump using a scan tool. I've always ghetto cycled them on Nissan 90s shit boxes by slamming the brakes and pulling the handbrake to agitate the rear wheels enough to cause a speed difference
×
×
  • Create New...