Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Basically I want to know what the point of having a top mount system for the turbo improves? Do people just get it for look so show off their turbo or does it actually improve any performance? Or is it also a bit like the front facing plenum where some people get it just because they like the ease of access to parts.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/404900-turbo-top-mounts/
Share on other sites

Use of space mainly. It's easier to top mount a larger turbo, and cheaper because to low mount you'd generally need a 1-off manifold.

I mean I've seen a GT40 low mounted so it can be done, there is just no room to work on it without major arse ache :)

Centre of gravity/weight distribution and all that shit, low mounting in theory would be better. For street cars it matters not.

And a front facing plenum, generally makes shit harder to work on (save for a plug change). When you split hoses under the plenum, you'll understand the pain that a larger FFP creates hehe. ;)

Ahh thank you very much!!!

I now Understand the Top Mount part, but am more lost ont he front facing plenum, Im assuming you have a front facing plenum so would you say it is still more advantageous to have? I just am nto lookign forward to the day I have to change a plug and have to go through a significant amount of unbolting to do so.

A proper top mount manifold with a good waste gating system will make a gain in performance. Same can also he archived using proper low mount. Inlet manifold how ever doesn't gain much or I have seen people went backwards. not much of point changing unless maybe hug power or for looks or intercooler popping installation convenience.

Inlet manifold how ever doesn't gain much or I have seen people went backwards. guess not much of point changing unless maybe hug power or for looks or intercooler popping installation convenience.

Haha well you've certainly changed your mind on that! :P

I normally like the FFP for giving more flexibility on injector choice. Makes it nice and easy to use a china rail and top feed injectors.

I also believe a top mount is generally beneficial for packaging reasons. If you were to build a nice low mount it would work just as well as the high mount, and as Ash said probably yield better centre of gravity which is a moot point on the street anyway.

in general terms it has been said that the stock plenum has more torque than an FFP due to the longer runners.

also try not to get confused as most people say low mount referring to the stock manifold (because it is a low mount of a sort). as a rule of thumb a quality high mount will have nice gains over the stock lowmount, but if u paid the premium for a custom low mount the performance should match the highmount.

i hope that helps

A proper top mount manifold with a good waste gating system will make a gain in performance.

As opposed to a proper low mount manifold/gate setup?

Not one iota of difference between the two at all.

No the opposite - he's saying apart from ease of plug change everything else is harder to get at. You'll get quite good at pulling off the crossover pipe etc after a few goes!

:yes:

Essentially what I'm reaching for is over 250 rwkw, So I suppose the best question is, Will I require either or both of these to attain this goal? or what are peoples preference to this?

Also is there a quick how to guide for the Crossover pipe removal? Everytime I look at it it just seems a much bigger task than you say

Essentially what I'm reaching for is over 250 rwkw, So I suppose the best question is, Will I require either or both of these to attain this goal? or what are peoples preference to this?

Also is there a quick how to guide for the Crossover pipe removal? Everytime I look at it it just seems a much bigger task than you say

It's two/four clamps, not hard at all!? lol.

Also, 250rwkw is very easily achievable, you don't need a manifold or anything. ECU, injectors, turbo. Assuming you've got the other bolt ons already, exhaust, FMIC, etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...