Jump to content
SAU Community

V35 Rear Bracing


Recommended Posts

i can see how a straight bar with 2 fixing points can make something stronger..... but... a bent bar?

Can you explain your theory? Do you know where this is placed?

Edited by Jetwreck
Link to comment
Share on other sites

i can see how a straight bar with 2 fixing points can make something stronger..... but... a bent bar?

I'm kind of with you on this.. but probably because I have been burnt before with strut tower braces, with many people telling me that make a big difference, then I fork out the cash, install it, and find it makes no difference at all to a daily.

This appears to be a similar item, but tries to tie the lower section of the rear suspension together.

I feel that forces required to flex this section of the suspension member would need to be significant, and a bent metal bar isn't likely to do much to reduce it. But since I have never used one, I can't really make any definitive comments. other than to say that I would be surprised if you would notice any change by fitting this to a normal street car..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So don't buy one, your Eopinion is not important to the other people chasing chassis stiffening mods.

These have been engineered by a reputable Japanese company and tested using complex load sensing equipment, with data supplied. Perhaps you should have compared the massive improvement the front underbody brace made to my M35's handling. Read the thread, we were all amazed by the difference in handling and turn in.

More chassis stiffening please Craig.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All good. no intention on buying one.. but I thought sharing experiences with similar mods was what forums are all about?? obviously I am mistaken.. sorry.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A strut brace would make very little difference to the handling on any of our cars, as the strut top isn't taking any side load like the earlier Nissans. We have upper wishbones taking the load, and our engine bays are braced/double walled.

The weak points are the main bolts under the chassis, where the large suspension bushes are located, like the main castor arm bush. These are flogging out badly after 10 years which shows the amount of load they deal with.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry, I forgot to mention, the FSTB was on a J30 Maxima, FWD with McPherson strut, so I would have expected any improvement with a FSTB would be noticable on a front heavy car with that suspension setup.

Sway bar upgrades made a big difference, FSTB and front lower tie bar did nothing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i can see how a straight bar with 2 fixing points can make something stronger..... but... a bent bar?

Common misconception.

The force required to flex or bend a straight bar is far less than that req'd to flex or bend a bar that has a premade bend in it.

The bar in question in this instance has two radii in it so trying to flex it in either direction along those radii would have them fighting against themselves - as would be the case once installed onto the car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For the V35 guys,

post-54773-0-38475900-1343278156_thumb.jpg

Took me 15 minutes to install.

Preliminary results are all good, short drive around the block and the rear of the car seems to stay flatter, also enhances the ride quality.

Now just waiting on the Daleo special front brace.

Also I just have to customize the exhaust on the drivers side of the diff as it is just touching the bar.

Edited by pv35gt8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have just driven to work, and travelled over some rough patches of road that normally throw me round like a cork in the ocean, now considerably smoother. Will be interesting to see how the front brace goes when I get it.

Cornering feels quite good (raining, turbo & single spinner = not so much joy) holding flatter with more traction.

Could be in me head but it also feels like it brakes alot better, i.e. better braking performance, but as I said this could be placebo effect.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry Craig, I thought that if there was another V owner letting them know that its a good thing that they might jump on your GB and get a really good price.

But alas, if it can't be seen while they drive down the road, then they don't want it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry Craig, I thought that if there was another V owner letting them know that its a good thing that they might jump on your GB and get a really good price.

But alas, if it can't be seen while they drive down the road, then they don't want it.

Feeling is always better than seeing....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So why do you keep coming into the thread?

Well, it seemed to get a bit off topic anyway.

We should bolt one under your car, let you see the result, then deny you the privilege of running one, ever.

Feel free..

Why is it that some seem to get so upset when you question their results? I got the same result when I told people the FSTB on a J30 maxima did nothing.. with plenty of people claiming it 'significantly reduced body roll', despite the fact no bracing can do that.

Edited by sonicii
Link to comment
Share on other sites

guy's the updated list is in this thread...if your on it please check the list to see I have not missed you.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/404938-rear-chassis-braces/page__st__60

@pv35Gt8....you can lead a horse to water......! Most people don't realise the positives about the M35/V35/Z33 and bracing.....these cars already have a very good chassis thats why simple upgrades are noticeable. The bracing simply makes the car sit flatter on the road therefore producing more grip.

One question for you though sonicii......If bracing was such a bad idea then why have Nissan fitted the S2 V35's with such a big f#$king brace across the front(much jealous).

To put any kind of chassis brace on a J30 Maxima would be like putting a set of Horse shoes on Cow.....not very noticeable and why would you EVER bother! :P....I didn't even know they had there own forum till now!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One question for you though sonicii......If bracing was such a bad idea then why have Nissan fitted the S2 V35's with such a big f#$king brace across the front(much jealous).

To put any kind of chassis brace on a J30 Maxima would be like putting a set of Horse shoes on Cow.....not very noticeable and why would you EVER bother! :P....I didn't even know they had there own forum till now!

Jetwreck, thanks for the partially sensible/reasonable reply, I was starting to think all I would get for disagreeing is flames..

Firstly, I never claimed this would make no difference or is a bad idea.. just that I am highly skeptical about simple braces making much difference.

To your question, if the S2 V35s have the extra bracing, and it makes so much difference, why don't we ever hear people claiming how much better a stock S2 V35 handles compared to a stock S1 V35?

In regard to the J30, yes it was a luxury designed vehicle, and will never handle like a 350Z, but there were many, many posts, on Australian forums and US forums, singing the praises of the FSTB and front lower tie bar, lots of 'huge difference', 'best bang for buck mod', 'car handles so much better', 'corners much faster' claims (it's amazing how much the placebo effect works), I already had stiffer springs, and stronger whiteline sway bars, and figured the chassis wouldn't be designed to handle the extra stress, and would flex more than a chassis of a 'performance' car, which would be stiffer in stock form. So it makes sense that bracing would be more noticeable in this situation. I ordered both the FSTB and Lower tie bar, and they had no noticeable difference to vehicle dynamics. After stating this on the forums, i got 1 of 2 types of replies. firstly, flamed for 'not knowing a thing about cars', or 'would know handling if I fell over it'. (similar to what I see here) or secondly, lots of backpedaling like 'you will only notice it if you have other suspension mods (which I did have), and 'you will only notice it on track/circuit events, and not with normal street driving'.

Feel free to correct me here, but I figure the only thing bracing can do for handling is reduce wheel camber and caster changes on rough roads or heavy cornering, there is no way it can reduce body roll, or make the car itself sit flatter in the corners. If the stock chassis is flexing so much to cause noticeable instability under normal street cornering and rough roads, when you already have uneven surfaces, stones, line marking, etc. Then I would expect to find cracks in the chassis after a couple of years.

As I said.. I am not saying these don't do anything, and I am more than happy and willing to be proven wrong. I am just outlining the reasons for my skepticism.. and a link to a page with a few 'stress measurement' graphs with no axis labels and no notes to show how the figures were obtained, doesn't mean much. Given my previous experience, a few people saying 'huge difference', 'corners much flatter' doesn't hold much weight either.

If I had a spare $200 or so that I didn't know what to do with, I may have even just given it a try for the sake of curiosity.

Perhaps if someone was to do a few 'blind' back to back tests and was able to determine 100% of the time if the bar was fitted or not, it would be a credible result.

- ok, bring on the flames!

Edited by sonicii
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Daily - 2011 Audi A5 And the camper VW transporter T5          
    • Wow mate that's huge, congrats. Glad you found better people to deal with and all seems like it's going in the right direction.
    • The best setting for street is what gives the best tyres wear for your driving style Different tyres like different camber You want the whole surface of the tread to wear flat, if the inside of the tyre is wearing more than the outside reduce camber settings For toe, have the minimum amount to give the handling you want Caster, from my experience if you can adjust it, is as much as you can get without clearance issues And while -2.5° of camber on the front might work well with good tyres for "spirited" cornering, it may be too much for a street car Lots of front camber will effect braking Just like to much rear camber will effect rear traction (rwd), and braking  When I set my Bogan Cruise Ship (VX SS) up for drags I tested how much tyre width I actually had in the rear by doing a hard launch (skid), it originally had -1.5° in the rear, and you could see that the tyre wasn't putting down alot of the tread, I maxed out the settings to get as little camber as I could with the OEM adjustment and some camber bushings and got it down to just under -0.5° with 0 toe, that gave me a fair bit more "rubber on the road" and helped it hook up for my 60' and my 0-100kph And with -1.5° in the front the big old boat handles fine on the street and my tyre wear is nice and even on both front and rear tyres (currently Hankook RS4's) As for semi slicks at the track, again, it depends on alot more IRT the suspension, the track and lots of other things, so, I'll leave that up to people who have more experience, especially with a AWD In saying this, street settings are pretty easy, just look at the tyre wear Meh, Necro thread, it's late at night, and I has been drinking beer
    • Thought I'd give an update. There needs to be scarce details in some areas due to ongoing discussions. Here's the journey of trying to make the booked registration appointment (again). Sent a complaint to Car Inspect outlining the concerns and made some demands. Went to a service center in Geelong, got assaulted with bullshit items on the RWC, as you know. Tried to quote $2.5k AND wanted a structural report Only seemed to be one place around Geelong that does them, they demand $495 just to end up telling me it's f**ked, at least $11k to fix and tried to sell me his own Skyline in the process (bro, wtf?) Started stressing about what I'm supposed to do with this possible pile of steel. Awaiting that, I was sent an angel friend who works in Melbourne and knows real mechanics and body shops.  They laughed at the reported quotes (don't get work done in Geelong) Car underwent some front surgery and brought back better They then sent it to the mechanics for RWC Registration appointment is two days away at this point. Mechanics pointed out two issues: driver's seat and shocks - that's it. He offered couple options and I chose coilovers. Frantically I scoured the jungle realm that is Facebook Marketplace (again). Found what looks to be a decent Series 1 seat actually - $100 Guy is friendly, offers to bring the seat with a colleague who's heading to Geelong (thanks man, that was cool) Seat arrived, looks good. Throw it in my car and drive to Melbourne and drop it to mechanic T-1 day, mechanic reckons job will be done for the fronts only, gets it done by 4PM Mechanic heads to get the coil-overs that night as a favour to help me make the appointment Get driven to Melbourne, drove the car back - RWC Unlocked! ✅ VicRoads tomorrow, the goal is close now. 🙂
×
×
  • Create New...