Jump to content
SAU Community

V35 Rear Bracing


Recommended Posts

Jetwreck, thanks for the partially sensible/reasonable reply, I was starting to think all I would get for disagreeing is flames..

Firstly, I never claimed this would make no difference or is a bad idea.. just that I am highly skeptical about simple braces making much difference.

To your question, if the S2 V35s have the extra bracing, and it makes so much difference, why don't we ever hear people claiming how much better a stock S2 V35 handles compared to a stock S1 V35?

In regard to the J30, yes it was a luxury designed vehicle, and will never handle like a 350Z, but there were many, many posts, on Australian forums and US forums, singing the praises of the FSTB and front lower tie bar, lots of 'huge difference', 'best bang for buck mod', 'car handles so much better', 'corners much faster' claims (it's amazing how much the placebo effect works), I already had stiffer springs, and stronger whiteline sway bars, and figured the chassis wouldn't be designed to handle the extra stress, and would flex more than a chassis of a 'performance' car, which would be stiffer in stock form. So it makes sense that bracing would be more noticeable in this situation. I ordered both the FSTB and Lower tie bar, and they had no noticeable difference to vehicle dynamics. After stating this on the forums, i got 1 of 2 types of replies. firstly, flamed for 'not knowing a thing about cars', or 'would know handling if I fell over it'. (similar to what I see here) or secondly, lots of backpedaling like 'you will only notice it if you have other suspension mods (which I did have), and 'you will only notice it on track/circuit events, and not with normal street driving'.

Feel free to correct me here, but I figure the only thing bracing can do for handling is reduce wheel camber and caster changes on rough roads or heavy cornering, there is no way it can reduce body roll, or make the car itself sit flatter in the corners. If the stock chassis is flexing so much to cause noticeable instability under normal street cornering and rough roads, when you already have uneven surfaces, stones, line marking, etc. Then I would expect to find cracks in the chassis after a couple of years.

As I said.. I am not saying these don't do anything, and I am more than happy and willing to be proven wrong. I am just outlining the reasons for my skepticism.. and a link to a page with a few 'stress measurement' graphs with no axis labels and no notes to show how the figures were obtained, doesn't mean much. Given my previous experience, a few people saying 'huge difference', 'corners much flatter' doesn't hold much weight either.

If I had a spare $200 or so that I didn't know what to do with, I may have even just given it a try for the sake of curiosity.

Perhaps if someone was to do a few 'blind' back to back tests and was able to determine 100% of the time if the bar was fitted or not, it would be a credible result.

- ok, bring on the flames!

Lolz

Shit chassis produced a shit response is the answer. Never driven j30 and I doubt I will ever drive one that is modified so I could not tell you wether it makes a difference but an m35, v35 and z33 is a f$&king way from a j30. As mentioned before a good chassis with show up the slightest of changes in the suspension or chassis.

I might give subaru a ring tonight a give em the bad news that the extra 100 kgs of bracing they put into the wrx chassis is a waist of money.....shit I might ever go and remove some of it from the race car......thanks for your advice buddy now piss of and go spam up someone elses thread with your j30 info.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you got out of the V section occasionally you would have read that everybody fitting the Daleo front underbody brace was suitably amazed by the difference it made to handling and turn in. Yes, the chassis does flex that much and it does cause the rear subframe to crack occasionally. Being sceptical and overly cautious about bracing is a good thing (I was a little worried at first too) but when you have every single person raving about the change in handling, and you don't listen, then you miss out I guess.

Thanks for organising the rear brace Craig, can't wait to get it on and I hope it makes the same dramatic change to the car the front one achieved. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lol Jetwreck.. based on your reply, I guess you quoted but didn't read what I said... - one again for good luck - 'I never claimed they don't do anything or are a bad idea'. - just skeptical based on experience.

Scott - thanks for the reply.. good to see someone else has actually questioned the concept.. sometimes I think these items are like a religion.. 'thou shall not question'. I have been burned by 'everyone raving about the results' before, so I am just after something more.. unless I happen to have the spare cash that I am willing to risk.. which I don't at this stage. but if I ever do, and get the same results as everyone is claiming, i will be more than happy to tell everyone..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lol Jetwreck.. based on your reply, I guess you quoted but didn't read what I said... - one again for good luck - 'I never claimed they don't do anything or are a bad idea'. - just skeptical based on experience.

Scott - thanks for the reply.. good to see someone else has actually questioned the concept.. sometimes I think these items are like a religion.. 'thou shall not question'. I have been burned by 'everyone raving about the results' before, so I am just after something more.. unless I happen to have the spare cash that I am willing to risk.. which I don't at this stage. but if I ever do, and get the same results as everyone is claiming, i will be more than happy to tell everyone..

You still trolling around nummers. Thanks for you skeptical feedback.

What's your experience again? You put bracing on a j30 and could not feel the difference! Lolz....

Edited by Jetwreck
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Scott - thanks for the reply.. good to see someone else has actually questioned the concept.. sometimes I think these items are like a religion.. 'thou shall not question'. I have been burned by 'everyone raving about the results' before, so I am just after something more.. unless I happen to have the spare cash that I am willing to risk.. which I don't at this stage. but if I ever do, and get the same results as everyone is claiming, i will be more than happy to tell everyone..

I think the bracing is worth it, but I am taking a different approach to the handling and not touching aftermarket swaybars. I want the flex point on my car to be the sway bar and not so much the mounts so I want to stiffen it up with bracing to give cornering response. Corners quite well at the moment too (even on stock springs lol). You'll find that a few of us Stagea owners actually questioned, thought about and applied everything we have done to our cars over the years (mainly because there was no other reference, but still...)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2.8L Stroked S1 RB25 Fully built block (Spool&CP) and head (Ferrea & Kelford 272's). Hydro lifters.  Precision 6466 Gen2 1.00 T4 Divided. 2x 40mm Turbosmart open dump gates.  DW 1200cc injectors 2x AEM 320LPH Pumps Haltech Elite 2500, IC7, WB1, TC8, Etc.  4" Downpipe, 3.5" Catback.  94AKI (101.5ron) Pump gas + WMI (2x 1000cc nozzles) 463rwkws @ 27psi on a mustang roller dyno. 
    • I finally got it on the dyno today and luckily it stayed in one piece! It wasn't without its dramas though. First off, sent my power steering belt to the moon around the third pull. Scared me half to death. Tuner laughed and mentioned that often happens with RB's... I may need to look into adding the Ross power steering idler, or something a long those lines.  Second issue that came up was about 2 hours in, we realized the VCT wasn't working and had to go back through the timing and knock threshold once it was fixed (I had botched setting up VCT). That waisted a good hour or so. I was surprised to see that with VCT working, we saw a ~38rwkw difference across the powerband. More then I would of expected.  Without further ado, made 463rwkw@27psi. Not the numbers I originally set out after, but still more then enough to kill myself and I'm very happy. Mustang roller dyno's are known to be heart breakers compared to other dyno's. Two things that limited me, first was the hydraulic lifters/7600rpm cut. Tuner was adamant that I was losing out on a lot of power up top because of it. Second was the pump gas & WMI. He wasn't 100% comfortable tuning with WMI, and was honest about it. He stated he's more confident on E85/Race gas. I look at this as a positive as it leaves me a lot of room for improvement. All in all, very happy! I need to see what I can do about that rev limiter... I use to rev my stock RB20 to 8000rpm and now I have a fully built head that I only rev to 7600... It's bugging me.  Don't mind my fantastic picture/filming skills.  RB28 - Dyno (1).mp4      
    • The Daily - 2011 Audi A5 And the camper VW transporter T5          
    • Wow mate that's huge, congrats. Glad you found better people to deal with and all seems like it's going in the right direction.
    • The best setting for street is what gives the best tyres wear for your driving style Different tyres like different camber You want the whole surface of the tread to wear flat, if the inside of the tyre is wearing more than the outside reduce camber settings For toe, have the minimum amount to give the handling you want Caster, from my experience if you can adjust it, is as much as you can get without clearance issues And while -2.5° of camber on the front might work well with good tyres for "spirited" cornering, it may be too much for a street car Lots of front camber will effect braking Just like to much rear camber will effect rear traction (rwd), and braking  When I set my Bogan Cruise Ship (VX SS) up for drags I tested how much tyre width I actually had in the rear by doing a hard launch (skid), it originally had -1.5° in the rear, and you could see that the tyre wasn't putting down alot of the tread, I maxed out the settings to get as little camber as I could with the OEM adjustment and some camber bushings and got it down to just under -0.5° with 0 toe, that gave me a fair bit more "rubber on the road" and helped it hook up for my 60' and my 0-100kph And with -1.5° in the front the big old boat handles fine on the street and my tyre wear is nice and even on both front and rear tyres (currently Hankook RS4's) As for semi slicks at the track, again, it depends on alot more IRT the suspension, the track and lots of other things, so, I'll leave that up to people who have more experience, especially with a AWD In saying this, street settings are pretty easy, just look at the tyre wear Meh, Necro thread, it's late at night, and I has been drinking beer
×
×
  • Create New...