Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah i know hes in AUS :) So am i lol. But im a nice guy and would have sent it anyway :P

And too true.. Bolts generally end up permanent for me too. I had a wine cork blocking my BOV return for over a year :)

Thanks heaps guys! Really do appreciate all the help so far! Great to see a forum that has good people on it! Will try my mech tomorrow about "bunging" it. I seriously hope that fixes the issue. REALLY don't wanna fork out for a rebuild or it gonna be spaghetti for me for the next few months O_o

Curious to know about silicone, I'd say your assumption would be spot on though.

One question, if I ditch the catch can, what will all that oil do if I just run the pipe from one of the top pipes to the othe (factory I assume) will it bellow smoke?

Edited by Spooger

If you want to block a fitting, I use the stoppers that they put on the ends of chair legs, they work a treat and come in all different sizes.

If I leave my car for a few months without starting it the condensation gets pretty rough and it'll breathe a lot of steam, I just let it idle with the oil cooler covered in cardboard off so the oil gets nice and hot and boils all the water out.

They dyno'd it but they only ran it at 8-10 pound. I'm at a loss, I can see these guys rubbing their hands together licking their lips at the money the want to make off me. They claim they can't print off the specs off their dyno'd machine as I asked for them. I don't know if I trust them or not. They said it has a shitload of blow by yet when I have checked it, it was minimal! Hulp!! What do I do? I'm in a regional area and we have only 2 places who know (sorta) how to work on these.

Edited by Spooger

Ok I searched high and low, repco, Burton's, super cheap, autobahn, and even Clark's rubber. No one has something to block the Pcv outlet off the rocket cover.

remove rocker cover, take somewhere to be hot washed and have the hole welded up if you want it blocked, a bolt in the hole doesnt give a fantastic seal and will leak.

They dyno'd it but they only ran it at 8-10 pound. I'm at a loss, I can see these guys rubbing their hands together licking their lips at the money the want to make off me. They claim they can't print off the specs off their dyno'd machine as I asked for them. I don't know if I trust them or not. They said it has a shitload of blow by yet when I have checked it, it was minimal! Hulp!! What do I do? I'm in a regional area and we have only 2 places who know (sorta) how to work on these.

8-10psi would be normal for a stock engine.. but not giving you a print out sounds dodgy.

Excessive blow by is when your dipstick gets blown out of the tube!

You need to do a compression test. Any workshop can do that or you can buy or borrow a compression gauge and do it yourself. You say you are in a regional area - how regional? It always helps to put the town where you live (or the nearest town) so that (a) another member might be nearby and be able to have a look at your car and (b) people can recommend the nearest good workshop. If there is one within a day's drive that might be a good idea before you give up on the car.

If you get a workshop to do a compression test ask them if they can do a leak-down test. It should only be an hour's labour charge. The results should tell you if the motor needs to come out or not.

  • 3 months later...

No, no, no, no, no.

Starting at the PCV fitting, you should have:

PCV to intake rocker cover (as per factory fittings)

Intake rocker cover to exhaust rocker cover (as per factory fittings)

exhaust rocker cover to catch can

catch can to intake side of turbo.

Ditch the stupid filter on the can (and plug the hole).

So basically, the catch can replaces the hose that goes from the exhaust rocker cover down to the intake of the turbo. And the whole system remains sealed and does not vent to atmosphere. And you don't have problems with EPA.

This has to be THE best and easiest explanation to installing a catch can EVER on a RB engine.

Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...