Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

So I have been searching the interwebz about all the tricks to find Vac Leaks.

I also searched SAU and found a few threads with mixed ideas and some of the exact same info.

So most people they say spray it with carby cleaner or start ya bast.

This I guess is a good/bad idea for larger leaks which can be pin pointed by spraying it around and listening for a change in revs.

I have tried this method on my vac leak but still come up with nothing.

Now in my searches people have also used smoke machines to find leaks and there are 2 types you can get either the party ones or the expensive ones made for cars.

Others on youtube have even just used a cigar and a long pipe!

Anyone have any experiences with Vac leaks.

Have you found it?

How did you find it?

Did you use a party smoke machine?

Did you take it to someone for them to find it.

I am considering going down to the party shop and buying myself a smoke machine but then the glycerin worries me having it inside my vac lines etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406123-vac-leak-tip-tricks-hints/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Easy and cheap way man. What size is your intake pipe, 3"? Assuming it is; buy a 3" straight joiner, a 3" cap that fits snugly inside the joiner (I bought mine from Bunnings), and head to your local bicycle store and buy a valve stem for a tyre. Then what I did is used a soldering iron (if it's not an old one, make sure you clean it up afterwards) to melt a hole in the plastic cap and pushed the valve stem into it.

Remove your AFM from your intake pipe and clamp your newly made device on in it's place. Then if you don't have a compressor you can buy one of those $11 portable ones from Supacheap, attach that to the valve stem and pump away listening/feeling for leaks. Make sure you're not pumping 250psi through it, but it should struggle to make even 2psi.

That whole setup cost me about $20, but I already had a compressor. Hasn't failed me yet :D

Might check out a regulator so I can make sure it only pumps around around 2psi.

So this way should make it the whole way to the intake plenum?

Sounds like a good idea because there is no need for smoke or anything.

More then happy to try this tonight.

Anyone else have any ideas.

Just want to get as much info to help other SAU people out if they end up searching this.

Sometimes the joiners only leak when hot, once they soften up. It's a good idea to go over every clamp while its hot on the dyno or after a drive as you can get more turns on the worm drive.

I ran mine and a mates STI liberty up to 40psi with the alloy 3 inch bung I made, there were all manner of leaks. lol.

Hanaldo is this what you did when you had the issue with your intake

Nah man, didn't end up needing it. I've used it a few times before though, it's very handy.

You shouldn't need a regulator as the compressor should have one, just keep an eye on the gauge to make sure :thumbsup:

I went over all the clamps

Even spent the past 4 days putting a new intake manifold gasket on and that still didnt fix it.

Cant wait to knock off work and go put this together.

All else fails im going to buy a cigar and blow that f**ker like a $2 hooker

Pretty much what I did too Hanaldo. the best part about this method is that the engine aint running and you can actually hear, see and feel where there leaking from.

I used an old shiny cricket ball jammed in a joiner just before the throttle body and pvc fitting with a hole drilled into in the intake before the turbo . (PS make sure you clamp it though. 25psi behind a cricket ball with a nice big intercooler fires a cricket ball out damn fast!!!)

Pretty much what I did too Hanaldo. the best part about this method is that the engine aint running and you can actually hear, see and feel where there leaking from.

I used an old shiny cricket ball jammed in a joiner just before the throttle body and pvc fitting with a hole drilled into in the intake before the turbo . (PS make sure you clamp it though. 25psi behind a cricket ball with a nice big intercooler fires a cricket ball out damn fast!!!)

So I guess you must have thought the leak was before the intake then.

Why didnt you just let it go all the way into the intake

So I guess you must have thought the leak was before the intake then.

Why didnt you just let it go all the way into the intake

Well the engine is an air leak itself, which is why I said you will struggle to make it hold a lot of pressure. But you should still be able to find where it is coming from.

If you don't find anything with it going through the intake, try the method urtwhistle used, might help.

i have had a leak in the intake manifold, i found it by spraying all the gaskets with wd40, if its not leaking it just drips, if its leaking it sucks it in while idling, when its on boost, you'd need a dyno and that is when it will spray outwards ..... this is for the intake im talking.. and this info was given to me by DVS JEZ and im so greatful for his input cause i was confused bout it for months... again thanks mate... :yes:

Well I had oil sprayed on my strut tower which was directly opposite the intake manifold.

So I cleaned it and went out for a boost and it was there again.

But at idle and spray with start ya bast it didn't get sucked in at all just dripped.

I replaced the gasket now the oil has stopped but the squeal on boost is still there and there is a whistle when sitting on -45 vac

That's why I was thinking of doing the pressure test rather then spraying stuff over and over

well i had the noise on boost, and the spray sucked in on idle, hmm it will only get sucked in on a vacumn

the whistle is normal with turbo's i think depending on the turbo, but maybe you have a leak on the exhaust side as well? do you have the tags on the 4bolts that connect the turbo to the manifold?

does the car idle smoothly? cause mine was a pig and wont start now , so im doing the gasket and im about to check if the manifold is warped a bit too..

I can't get the idle correct no matter how much I play with it. So that's why I'm down to it being a leak.

The whistle only happens around -45 vac on my greddy profec. You can hear the turbos spool but it's a totally different sound and is only recent.

And the high pitch squeel comes around 15psi and wide open throttle

The tabs should still be there because we did them when replacing the turbo but I'll try to suss that out as well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...