Possible Boost Cut.

[Plattsy]

hey ho here we go. im back. r33 s1 gtst r34 smic and rb20 actuator, 3 inch cat back exhaust all installed this weekend, car is great as the boost builds up but when its hitting +7 on the standard boost gauge, it boosts fantastically then all of a sudden its like i hit a wall, although im still moving. i don't know what happens after this point because i let off straight away. i did it twice then thought i better ask the boys for help!

[Moodles2]

+7 = 13.2psi. If this is a stock ECU we're talking about, welcome to R&R. Solution: aftermarket ECU + tune.

[KiwiRS4T]

Or temporary fix - get a boost T and turn the boost down till it stops doing it.

[Hadouken]

+7 = 13.2psi. If this is a stock ECU we're talking about, welcome to R&R. Solution: aftermarket ECU + tune.

Or temporary fix - get a boost T and turn the boost down till it stops doing it.

Done and done

[Plattsy]

mother fudger! i didn't think it would be hitting that much psi, i was informed the actuator would allow 10 which is fine! crap crap crap.

bloody ecu. i really dont wanna aftermarket. i wanted to keep as stock as poss. which is why i used the nissan parts instead of the t boost!

[Hadouken]

time for a t boost brudda or just nistune

[Plattsy]

time for a t boost brudda or just nistune

just got the t boost for 40 bucks fit that and keep capped at 10! need a boost gauge for testing now! whos got a cheap one!?

cheers boys.

[Plattsy]

time for a t boost brudda or just nistune

hmmmmmm nistune, can they do autos?

[Hadouken]

I dont see why not

[Plattsy]

sweet, is that dr drift geezer still alive and kicking? i heard years ago he could replace the chip and remap standard rb ecus........

[GTSBoy]

R33s have gay ECUs. If you Nistune it you must use either an R32 or Z32 ECU as the base, with a little extra fiddling around needed. I don't know how easy it is to put in a burnt ROM like Dr Drift used to do, as pretty much no-one does it via such annoyingly slow methods any more.

Also, I am very surprised to hear that you can get less boost than the wastegate actuator wants to give you by using a boost T. That's kind of impossible.

[Plattsy]

im just surprised, the "10psi" actuator is actually giving me 13!

[GTSBoy]

Don't be surprised. On an R32, if you had that actuator, a big exhaust, dump and free flowing intake, you'd get about that much boost.

[KiwiRS4T]

R33s have gay ECUs. If you Nistune it you must use either an R32 or Z32 ECU as the base, with a little extra fiddling around needed. I don't know how easy it is to put in a burnt ROM like Dr Drift used to do, as pretty much no-one does it via such annoyingly slow methods any more.

Also, I am very surprised to hear that you can get less boost than the wastegate actuator wants to give you by using a boost T. That's kind of impossible.

Quite right - sorry for the bum steer - looks like ecu time alright. Give Nistune a ring and they will spell out which Z32 ecu you need etc.

[scotty nm35]

im just surprised, the "10psi" actuator is actually giving me 13!

Are you still running the stock boost solenoid? Just run a new hose from the actuator straight to the nipple on your pipe if you haven't already.

[Manuel Kasko]

If you want to keep stock ecu

Go talk to toshi in the trader section he can do remaps of the standard ecu for around $650

[Plattsy]

There are three pipes left, all connected via a t piece, one goes to a pipe that joins the intake hose, one goes to the nipple on the cooler pipe, and one goes to the actuator. Please tell me this wrong!

[Manuel Kasko]

Block the one going to the intake.

Just put a phat screw in it or something.

Run the line straight from the nipple( mmm nipple) to the actuator. Done

Then drive to Sydney and see toshi and he will hook you up with a tune

[Plattsy]

What's the one on the intake for?

[Manuel Kasko]

It used to be for something to do with the stock boost controller. Mine is blocked off and no one with aftermarket intake pipes have it anyways