Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey ho here we go. im back. r33 s1 gtst r34 smic and rb20 actuator, 3 inch cat back exhaust all installed this weekend, car is great as the boost builds up but when its hitting +7 on the standard boost gauge, it boosts fantastically then all of a sudden its like i hit a wall, although im still moving. i don't know what happens after this point because i let off straight away. i did it twice then thought i better ask the boys for help!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406416-possible-boost-cut/
Share on other sites

mother fudger! i didn't think it would be hitting that much psi, i was informed the actuator would allow 10 which is fine! crap crap crap.

bloody ecu. i really dont wanna aftermarket. i wanted to keep as stock as poss. which is why i used the nissan parts instead of the t boost!

R33s have gay ECUs. If you Nistune it you must use either an R32 or Z32 ECU as the base, with a little extra fiddling around needed. I don't know how easy it is to put in a burnt ROM like Dr Drift used to do, as pretty much no-one does it via such annoyingly slow methods any more.

Also, I am very surprised to hear that you can get less boost than the wastegate actuator wants to give you by using a boost T. That's kind of impossible.

R33s have gay ECUs. If you Nistune it you must use either an R32 or Z32 ECU as the base, with a little extra fiddling around needed. I don't know how easy it is to put in a burnt ROM like Dr Drift used to do, as pretty much no-one does it via such annoyingly slow methods any more.

Also, I am very surprised to hear that you can get less boost than the wastegate actuator wants to give you by using a boost T. That's kind of impossible.

Quite right - sorry for the bum steer - looks like ecu time alright. Give Nistune a ring and they will spell out which Z32 ecu you need etc.

im just surprised, the "10psi" actuator is actually giving me 13!

Are you still running the stock boost solenoid? Just run a new hose from the actuator straight to the nipple on your pipe if you haven't already.

There are three pipes left, all connected via a t piece, one goes to a pipe that joins the intake hose, one goes to the nipple on the cooler pipe, and one goes to the actuator. Please tell me this wrong!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
    • I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
×
×
  • Create New...