Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im still waiting for the following to arrive, Tomei stud caps, Tomei 1.5mm oil restrictor, ATI 1000hp balancer and a few other bits and pieces that i have forgotten. After countless delays and f**k ups im pleased that my build has picked up speed it seems like my goal of having the car back on the road at the end of the year is still in achievable.

Edited by Tyranus

Nice one Sedat. It is pleasing to hear that things are moving. There is nothing more frustrating than waiting for things to be done.

btw - what is the flow rate of that Nitto Oil Pump? Must a be a fair bit if it comes with a head oil drain.

Cheers Anth, the only flow rate figures i could find was 64.8 @ 7k rpm. I'll need to ask my engine builder to get 100% correct answer. The head oil drain was actually an add-on that i got. My engine builder suggested that i should have a oil return line from the back of the head going to the sump so i dont have any oiling issues when im revving the engine over 9k rpm.

Edited by Tyranus

Hey Sedat you probably are already aware of this not sure if it's stated in the info that comes with the pump but the Nitto pumps runs dual springs and you need to remove one otherwise your oil pressure will be around 140 psi. PM a member on her named Shazz as he just had to remove his engine to fix that problem.

  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...

Update:

Ive purchased a Nitto 1.1mm oil restrictor

ATI 1000HP Balancer

Tomei Cam Caps/Covers i think thats what they were called

The major update:

The block is back at the workshop and is being put back together :D :D :D

20130826_123810_zpsae58dedf.jpg

20130826_123756_zps2be02a6c.jpg

The block has had its final spray (gloss black) and will be assembled this week!

20130902_112938_zpse975da2f.jpg

And some comparison shots of rods for a 2JZ (Carrillo rod)(3.4 stroker build), RB30 (Nitto rod) and mine RB26 (Nitto rod).

20130902_113503_zps5ee9b719.jpg

20130902_113537_zpsd4354ada.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...