Jump to content
SAU Community

Help - R34 Rb25De - Still Misfiring After Coil Pack Change

lkp

By lkp,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

lkp Rookie

lkp

Posted
Posted

Had a misfiring problem - took it to local mechanic who replaced one coil pack and the car was running well for 1 day then misfire returned. I used one of the diy tutorials to replace all coil packs. car ran fine for approx 40kms then started misfiring again - nowhere near as bad as they were misfiring before I changed all the coil packs but misfiring nonetheless.What could be causing this?

Spark plugs had been changed 7 months ago.

also noticed that the two coil packs had different numbers on - 4 of them are numbered 543, 1 is 791 and another 8X5. they all have HANSHIN MCP1440 on the back of em except the one numbered 791 has MCP1340. Does this mean anything?

All coil packs in there now are brand new ones FUJI ULTRA SPARK - sold by www.OSAKA.co.nz.

As you've probably gathered, I am a newbie. Help please!

Moodles2 Grand Master

Moodles2

Posted
Posted

First time I've heard of these coilpacks, and I've heard of them all (JJR, super spark, yellow jackets, OEM, splitfire, okada project plasma etc).

Which brand and what model spark plugs were used (NGK copper, NGK iridium etc) and the exact model number of them (gap and heat range too). If they are copper spark plugs then they are in all likelyhood due to be changed depending how far have you travelled in those 7 months?

Change the spark plug gap to 0.8mm and see if that helps and take a picture of them all while they're out, so we can see what kinda shape they're in. If it doesn't solve the misfire, then put new plugs in. If that still doesn't solve it then unplug individual coilpacks to work out which cylinder is the one misfiring and put a known working one in it's place, if the misfire is gone then replace that faulty coilpack (should be under warranty)

lkp Rookie

lkp

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The plugs are all NGK Iridiums

I pulled all plugs off and they all seem in very good nick. The first one had relatively more soot buildup then the other five and was also a bit wet. there was a bit of liquid around the spark plug in the well. The coil on this first plug seems faulty - the collar actually moves back and forth a bit and there is a small white streak on the black silicone(?). this is one of the new Fuji coils I put in Thursday.

I replaced the faulty coil pack with one from the old set and it seems to have worked - No more misfires. Hopefully the misfiring is gone for good this time.

Fuji Ultra Coil Packs are made in Japan apparently. they have a red jacket on them. Yeah, $345 is pretty cheap for coil packs....

Thanks for your help guys. much appreciated.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...