Jump to content
SAU Community

Guard Rolling + Wheel Alignment

Manuel Kasko
 Share

Recommended Posts

Manuel Kasko Grand Master

Manuel Kasko

Posted
Posted

Hey guys

Going to be getting my new rims in the next few weeks and I need to get my guards rolled and a wheel balance and alignment done.

Anyone know of a cheap place that you have experienced.

Or if anyone knows how to roll the guards I am more then happy to pay you for helping do it.

Cheers

Kasko

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407293-guard-rolling-wheel-alignment/
Share on other sites
RS4-S Proficient

RS4-S

Posted
Posted (edited)

I work at jax fyshwick, we used to roll guards til our guard roller broke from over use. Then us like most shops stopped doing it because no matter how many times you tell people that most the time your paint will crack and or flake even when heated with a heat gun, they still want you to pay for a respray. You can buy a roller off eBay for about $100-$130 and do it yourself?

I am a full time wheel aligner and it'll cost ya $66 for a 4 wheel alignment at our shop.

Edited by RS4-S
bnpcustoms Contributor

bnpcustoms

Posted
Posted

We do guard rolling, and there is always a risk of cracking the paint or flaking at the seam of the guard where it tucks under when lipping the guard.

When rolling the guards out it becomes a bigger risk as you are stretching a wide area of the paint just above the lip and thats why most shops including us mention before work comences that there is a risk that it can crack/flake the paint when rolling/lipping even with a heat gun..

The reason shops mention the risk is to cover the shop if there are any cracks in the paint due to rolling the guards and the paint not being flexable.

We charge $50/guard to roll/lip we arent able to do wheel aligning yet.

Trozzle Grand Master

Trozzle

Posted
Posted

does that include cars with adjustable upper arms?

I'm with TiTAN here, are you able to do a full setup adjustment for me - ride height (lower), then fix camber and alignment? Theoretically all I need to do is lower it again to wherever it was before, then all the rest should be near on correct lol

RS4-S Proficient

RS4-S

Posted
Posted

Titan and Troy. The more adjustments you have, the better I can do my job. $66 would cover front and rear camber and toe etc and front caster if you have adjustable tension rods. Lowering a by means of winding down Coilovers would attract an additional fee. Il enquire pricing for this tomorrow of youre interested. If you have fully adjustable everything you can give me preferred specs otherwise I set it to factory/my specs. IF you give me some wack specs you found online with stupidly large cross camber and caster differences and your car pulls like a 12yr old boy, il just say I told you so.

Manuel Kasko Grand Master

Manuel Kasko

Posted
  • Author
Posted

When rolling the guards out it becomes a bigger risk as you are stretching a wide area of the paint just above the lip and thats why most shops including us mention before work comences that there is a risk that it can crack/flake the paint when rolling/lipping even with a heat gun..

I dont need any pumping of the guards etc.

Just a standard roll of the inside is what I think the guys in the wheel section were telling me.

Going to be lowering the car and fitting some 18x9.5 +22's with 235/40/18

The coilovers should give me the camber I need

Trozzle Grand Master

Trozzle

Posted
Posted

Titan and Troy. The more adjustments you have, the better I can do my job. $66 would cover front and rear camber and toe etc and front caster if you have adjustable tension rods. Lowering a by means of winding down Coilovers would attract an additional fee. Il enquire pricing for this tomorrow of youre interested. If you have fully adjustable everything you can give me preferred specs otherwise I set it to factory/my specs. IF you give me some wack specs you found online with stupidly large cross camber and caster differences and your car pulls like a 12yr old boy, il just say I told you so.

LOL gold.

Fair enough, I might just pull my finger out and lower it myself then bring it past if it still handles like a heap of shit :)

RS4-S Proficient

RS4-S

Posted
Posted

Lowering/raising vehicle with coilovers fitted will cost about an hours labour ($99). Make sure you adjust your Coilovers at the bottom and not the spring perch as you are just changing spring preload and reducing shock travel.

Trozzle Grand Master

Trozzle

Posted
Posted

Lowering/raising vehicle with coilovers fitted will cost about an hours labour ($99). Make sure you adjust your Coilovers at the bottom and not the spring perch as you are just changing spring preload and reducing shock travel.

Hehe yeah I know :P I raised them myself for the engineer's cert. I can do them myself, I just really couldn't be f**ked hahaha

GTRKat Grand Master

GTRKat

Posted
Posted

I dont need any pumping of the guards etc.

Just a standard roll of the inside is what I think the guys in the wheel section were telling me.

Going to be lowering the car and fitting some 18x9.5 +22's with 235/40/18

The coilovers should give me the camber I need

That standard roll can still crack and cause reasonable paint damage.

Trust me :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All I hear is ROADTRIP!
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...