Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Going to be getting my new rims in the next few weeks and I need to get my guards rolled and a wheel balance and alignment done.

Anyone know of a cheap place that you have experienced.

Or if anyone knows how to roll the guards I am more then happy to pay you for helping do it.

Cheers

Kasko

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407293-guard-rolling-wheel-alignment/
Share on other sites

I work at jax fyshwick, we used to roll guards til our guard roller broke from over use. Then us like most shops stopped doing it because no matter how many times you tell people that most the time your paint will crack and or flake even when heated with a heat gun, they still want you to pay for a respray. You can buy a roller off eBay for about $100-$130 and do it yourself?

I am a full time wheel aligner and it'll cost ya $66 for a 4 wheel alignment at our shop.

Edited by RS4-S

We do guard rolling, and there is always a risk of cracking the paint or flaking at the seam of the guard where it tucks under when lipping the guard.

When rolling the guards out it becomes a bigger risk as you are stretching a wide area of the paint just above the lip and thats why most shops including us mention before work comences that there is a risk that it can crack/flake the paint when rolling/lipping even with a heat gun..

The reason shops mention the risk is to cover the shop if there are any cracks in the paint due to rolling the guards and the paint not being flexable.

We charge $50/guard to roll/lip we arent able to do wheel aligning yet.

does that include cars with adjustable upper arms?

I'm with TiTAN here, are you able to do a full setup adjustment for me - ride height (lower), then fix camber and alignment? Theoretically all I need to do is lower it again to wherever it was before, then all the rest should be near on correct lol

Titan and Troy. The more adjustments you have, the better I can do my job. $66 would cover front and rear camber and toe etc and front caster if you have adjustable tension rods. Lowering a by means of winding down Coilovers would attract an additional fee. Il enquire pricing for this tomorrow of youre interested. If you have fully adjustable everything you can give me preferred specs otherwise I set it to factory/my specs. IF you give me some wack specs you found online with stupidly large cross camber and caster differences and your car pulls like a 12yr old boy, il just say I told you so.

When rolling the guards out it becomes a bigger risk as you are stretching a wide area of the paint just above the lip and thats why most shops including us mention before work comences that there is a risk that it can crack/flake the paint when rolling/lipping even with a heat gun..

I dont need any pumping of the guards etc.

Just a standard roll of the inside is what I think the guys in the wheel section were telling me.

Going to be lowering the car and fitting some 18x9.5 +22's with 235/40/18

The coilovers should give me the camber I need

Titan and Troy. The more adjustments you have, the better I can do my job. $66 would cover front and rear camber and toe etc and front caster if you have adjustable tension rods. Lowering a by means of winding down Coilovers would attract an additional fee. Il enquire pricing for this tomorrow of youre interested. If you have fully adjustable everything you can give me preferred specs otherwise I set it to factory/my specs. IF you give me some wack specs you found online with stupidly large cross camber and caster differences and your car pulls like a 12yr old boy, il just say I told you so.

LOL gold.

Fair enough, I might just pull my finger out and lower it myself then bring it past if it still handles like a heap of shit :)

Lowering/raising vehicle with coilovers fitted will cost about an hours labour ($99). Make sure you adjust your Coilovers at the bottom and not the spring perch as you are just changing spring preload and reducing shock travel.

Lowering/raising vehicle with coilovers fitted will cost about an hours labour ($99). Make sure you adjust your Coilovers at the bottom and not the spring perch as you are just changing spring preload and reducing shock travel.

Hehe yeah I know :P I raised them myself for the engineer's cert. I can do them myself, I just really couldn't be f**ked hahaha

I dont need any pumping of the guards etc.

Just a standard roll of the inside is what I think the guys in the wheel section were telling me.

Going to be lowering the car and fitting some 18x9.5 +22's with 235/40/18

The coilovers should give me the camber I need

That standard roll can still crack and cause reasonable paint damage.

Trust me :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...