Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all.

I'm in the market for a GTR skyline. Will be either r32 or r33. Not too sure which yet.

But what I'm wanting to know is what will be my best option of changing it from manual to auto.

As I'm in a wheel chair and this just makes it a easier option for myself.

Also does anyone know who in Sydney would build a strong auto awd box for a skyline?

Thanks in advance

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407479-manual-to-auto-gtr/
Share on other sites

The only people I have herd of ever doing this to a GTR were doing it for a drag car.

I think it would be horribly expensive to do. Why do you want a GTR out of all cars available.

Why I ask is that my good friend is in a chair also. He started off with Prelude and that was C**T of a thing for him to get his chair into. He ended up selling the bastard thing out of frustration. He then went onto a v8 statesman and wrapped that around a power pole. then a supercharged calais. Finally he has got a new GTi golf and it is the pick of the bunch. its easier to drive, easier to get a cripple conversion done (every thing is off the shelf ex Europe) and easier for him to get his chair into the car by him self.

I'm not saying not to do it but if you did I think your setting your self up for a world of pain, financially and in day to day life.

But thats just my oppinion.

Chris

Do a search. There's a company that does a turbo 400 or powerglide that bolts onto an rb26 with a gtr transfer case on the back. Its for dragracing but you can build these trannys to any specs you like. Wouldn't be any more than 5g. There's a clip on YouTube of one burning up all four wheels.

how common are stagea's in the NSW region?

as im from N.Z. and are very common but don't see much around this way,

as sydking said ya only live once , and im on my 2nd chance so im trying to have a car that ive always wanted,

thanks for all the replys tho everyone

We did have someone ask the same question a few years ago, for the same reason. Never saw a follow up though.

I think the cheapest and easiest way to do it is to start with an auto gts4 (32 is the only option in Oz, but in NZ you could get your hands on a 33). Would only be a couple of thousand and has the same attessa system and suspension as the gtr.

Then engine swap to put an rb26 in if you are dead keen for that. About $5k for a good motor plus 3-5 to fit it. Or just mod the gts4 to make 200kw (easy enough, and probably cheaper).

The only trick would be the ECU, you probably need to retain the gts4 ECU to control the auto but that may have troubles running the RB26.....might need to allow for some sort of piggyback computer like an emanage

I remember ages ago reading a mag. They did an article on putting a rb26 into an auto stages.. They was shocked that the standard gtr ecu did actually put out the signal for the auto box and everything worked sweet... Maybe won't be as hard as everyone is thinking...

Well it looks like news is getting slightly better each time.

I've always wanted a GTR skyline. And I now have the opportunity to do it. I have found a way of leaving it manual by using a duck clutch. Which has the clutch system hooked upto the gear knob. Have seen bids of it being used. But I know I'll get a lil confused sometimes.

The only trick would be the ECU, you probably need to retain the gts4 ECU to control the auto but that may have troubles running the RB26.....might need to allow for some sort of piggyback computer like an emanage

It would be worth talking to Matt from Nistune about that stuff.

Maybe a Neo from a Stag would be easier than an rb26?

Auto ECM in my 32 is a totally seperate module, lives behind the drivers kick panel (Is still in there wired up but not used). Didn't think there was any difference between auto and manual ecu's.. Happy to be enlightened.

hmmmmmmmmm............well that changes it abit,

But also does anyone know of any good machinists in Sydney, as I've been in contact with a guy in New Zealand, and hes running a turbo 300z trans in his GTR,

The bell housing from the Skyline bolts onto the 300z trans, the 300z trans is longer by about 30mm.

The four wheel drive unit from the skyline will bolt onto the back of the 300z trans, you will need to have the out put shaft of the 300z trans modified by an engineer (shortened and splinded)

he had his trans rebuilt to handle allot of extra power/torque.

he needed to shorten one drive shaft and lengthen the other.

Small modification to the floor pan to fit the transmission.

but also his gts4 was a factory automatic, so am still in need to know how i would have it wired up. nistune didnt have any answers,

So does anyone know who else may be able to help NSW

thanks all

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...