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i've had some falken ziex tyres in the past. not sure if exactly the same ones, but i know that they were the worst tyre i've ever driven on in the wet, even when relatively new.

so i'm guessing that it's a mix of shit tyres and going too fast into the round about.

before i got new tyres on my wagon i could go into a wet round about at about 35kmh, light constant throttle and then just use the steering wheel to get the back out should i so choose to. all it would take is a small sudden adjustment. all it would take was moving my hand from say 5 o'clock to 6 o'clock.

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  On 26/08/2012 at 7:44 AM, Yorik said:

My 2 cents:

  1. Running 265's in the rear and 235's upfront is a significant offset difference for the wheel track. This needs to be compensated for in your driving style. But by the sounds of things you don't have a huge amount of skill.
  2. I think you're running too much negative camber in the rear, the tyres look okay, but I can see more wear on the inside, this means that you do not have the maximum contact patch when cornerning.
  3. When you approach a corner, do you have what is known as "viscious turn in"? I do get a little hardcore on the turn in when I want sideways action, or when I am getting over zealous at the track. Try to be smooth with your steering inputs.
  4. Slow in, fast out. Great words that should be applied to every corner.
  5. Are you taking into account the camber of the road when cornering. Negative effects of camber on corner ability are amplified in the wet.
  6. Wet roads (especially freshly wet roads) are usually very oily as well.

My advice:

  1. Get suspension setup properly
  2. Drop to a 255 rear end, unless you seriously need 265's for traction, don't go any wider than you need to.
  3. Do a defensive driving course, then a track day.
  4. Never ride a motorbike, shit will get ugly in a biblical way

advice noted , with time I will do all of the above

  On 28/08/2012 at 2:57 AM, MrStabby said:

So, treadwear 360, old, and Ziex are known to be crap (not surprising at treadwear 360!). Strong evidence your problem is that the tyres have no grip.

wtf is treadwear 360?

  On 26/08/2012 at 10:12 AM, Dahtone Racing said:

Did anyone notice the manufacture date of the tyres? End of 2008.

How long ago did you buy the tyres?

I try to buy tyres that are no older than 6 months since they were made.

  On 27/08/2012 at 10:24 AM, mad082 said:

i've had some falken ziex tyres in the past. not sure if exactly the same ones, but i know that they were the worst tyre i've ever driven on in the wet, even when relatively new.

so i'm guessing that it's a mix of shit tyres and going too fast into the round about.

before i got new tyres on my wagon i could go into a wet round about at about 35kmh, light constant throttle and then just use the steering wheel to get the back out should i so choose to. all it would take is a small sudden adjustment. all it would take was moving my hand from say 5 o'clock to 6 o'clock.

same , just a slight twitch of the wheel was all it took for all hell to break loose

  On 28/08/2012 at 2:57 AM, MrStabby said:

So, treadwear 360, old, and Ziex are known to be crap (not surprising at treadwear 360!). Strong evidence your problem is that the tyres have no grip.

a

h , didnt know ziex where known to be crap

Kumho ku36's then?

again , whats treadwear 360?

  On 28/08/2012 at 3:47 AM, zebra said:

Tread wear rating is what the tyre manufactures use to rate the hardness of the rubber, higher the number the harder the tyre (in general terms)

hmm google is our friend....so apparently treadwaear is completely relative to each manufacturer..ie only allows you to compare among the same manufacturer not across all brands

in anycase , nice bit of info to know.

oh well , ku36's all round then.

  On 28/08/2012 at 4:14 AM, tripsteady said:

hmm google is our friend....so apparently treadwaear is completely relative to each manufacturer..ie only allows you to compare among the same manufacturer not across all brands

I dont agree with that. While there are issues with treadwear as a measure, its still a useful ballpark indicator across brands.

Here's some numbers i just made up;

<40 = slicks

60-100 = r spec

140-200 = s spec

200-300 = street tyres

300+ = long life street tyres not much grip

As a gross generallisation, low treadwear is associated with good grip and short life, and high treadwear is associated with long life and poor grip.

ok its the tyres

if you look on the Tyres you use(d) and how u would rate them youl see that the ziex comes up again and again as so bad in the wet that its dangerous...

f**kn hell ,how are they even allowed to sell tyres this dangerous? It rained again tonight , took it really easy but I could feel the tyres where starting to lose grip.

I put my foot down ever so slightly when at the lights and the rears started to spin on the spot. Camrys and kias where taking a corner way faster then me and most where overtaking.

This tyre is so bad its embarrassing, there should be a sticky in the tyre section to never ever EVER EVER EVER purchase any Falken Ziex of any model.Ever. F*ck you Falken.

Edited by tripsteady

I empathise with you.

I once bought some wheels for my 4WS VTiR Prelude. They were shod with Nankang S Sh!tt

Anyway, on a wet night, I followed a Vectra (FWD) around a sweeper at 50Km/Hr and my car lost all traction. The tyres were near new. I thought WTF.

I went to Blair's Tyres who are agents for Nankangs. Nankang Aust branch was very obliging after checking the date on the wall.

They were so kind, they gave me a brand new set of the same tyre that slipped just as badly on the next wet night !!!

If I had looked in the rear vision mirror as I took off, I wonder if I would have seen some tyre man 'crossing' himself?

  On 31/08/2012 at 10:14 PM, Terry_GT-R34 said:

I empathise with you.

I once bought some wheels for my 4WS VTiR Prelude. They were shod with Nankang S Sh!tt

Anyway, on a wet night, I followed a Vectra (FWD) around a sweeper at 50Km/Hr and my car lost all traction. The tyres were near new. I thought WTF.

I went to Blair's Tyres who are agents for Nankangs. Nankang Aust branch was very obliging after checking the date on the wall.

They were so kind, they gave me a brand new set of the same tyre that slipped just as badly on the next wet night !!!

If I had looked in the rear vision mirror as I took off, I wonder if I would have seen some tyre man 'crossing' himself?

lol , its not a good feeling losing traction when you dont expect to....Im avoiding the rain until I get my new tyres. Hoping i get can my hands on some toyo t1rs.Have only heard consistently good things about them.

question, is this turning left or right on a roundy or just going straight through?

  Quote
Stiff suspension, lots of camber/bad alignment and hard tyres could be causing this problem.

^^as above

also when lowering a car you'll get more wheel spin off the line as there is more neg camber on the rear meaning less tyre to the road. try lowering you tyre pressure to 30 or so for more rear grip

when its raining next i recommend you get out to your local free drivers training area and practice a low speed donut

best road tyres I've ever used are toyo t1 r/s + pirelli p zero nero, pricey f**kers but.

Also used Kuhmo KU36 pretty decent tyre for the price but I found they wore down pretty quick compared to the above

You're better off getting a set of Bridgestone Turzana tyres which will be better in the wet and are more of a grand touring tyre than the KU36's.

KU36s are extremely good in the dry, and not that great in the wet.

  On 02/09/2012 at 12:11 PM, BakemonoRicer said:

You're better off getting a set of Bridgestone Turzana tyres which will be better in the wet and are more of a grand touring tyre than the KU36's.

My old man has these on his Mazda 6 and dare I say it it grips a hell of a lot better than my 32. they feel really safe in the wet, but for the price you are probably better off getting more of a performance tyre.

I run KU36's but because I don't drive the GTR that much in the rain.

You're better off for a KU31 as a street tyre. KU36's are really designed to be a high performance street which means it will be better in the dry than wet. The KU31 is more all rounder.

Also the NSW club get's federal 959ss and RS-R's for bloody cheap on our member price. You'd probably save the membership fee on a full set with change to spare.

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