Jump to content
SAU Community

Cold Cranking Procedure For V36

The Max
 Share

Recommended Posts

The Max Mentor

The Max

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

Just doing my homework here but having my V36 sitting in the garage for the past 5 months and never started, I need to figure out the cold cranking procedure for these vehicles. It's a ritual I used to do with my old Maxima whenever I got back home from such a long absence, changing the oil and filter as well as taking out the spark plugs and dripping some oil down the cylinders and then finally cold cranking the engine without fuel for about 30 seconds, or until sufficient oil pressure would build up.

Of course, back in the day with an old '92 model car, that was a piece of cake with the old ignition barrel but now it's a push-to-start system so it's trickier.

Is there an elegant way to do this or will the ECU freak out and avoid powering the starter motor if I were to remove the fuse for the fuel pump? Otherwise, my other option will be to manually actuate the starter motor using external wiring at the IPDM in the engine bay instead.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407732-cold-cranking-procedure-for-v36/
Share on other sites
PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

There is an "elegant" solution, in either getting diagnostic software (uprev) or buying Consult (14,000) and using that to turn off the fuel pump and release fuel pressure when the car is cranked. However, as the others have suggested; just start the car mate. Its not a EH Holden...

Plus cranking it will kill your starter prematurely.

The Max Mentor

The Max

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Excellent. I have both the Osiris Tuner as well as a Nissan Consult 3+ kit ($1600 Chinese knock-off with software). I'll do my homework when I fly back home soon.

As for killing the starter motor, it's easier to replace one of those than it is to freshen up an engine. I can live with that. My Maxima lasted for 16 years before the starter needed replacing and that was after a course of 4 cold crankings over 8 years.

The VG was better for it.

Edited by The Max
PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

when you turn on the ignition (to connect to the ECU), the pump will prime and pressurise the system. Using Cipher, turn the fuel pump off. Car will start briefly, but run out of fuel and die quickly. Then I guess you can crank if you want. I guess other options would be to disconnect your fuel pump via either the fuel lines, or the electric power to the pump. Might throw a CEL then.

But I'm still of the just Start the car camp... :)

sonicii Veteran

sonicii

Posted
Posted

Agree with the others.. Don't think cold cranking is necessary. Never did this in my old maxima after extended periods of inactivity. Never had any issues with it. It didn't burn any oil and ran great until a broken crank snout shot it dead at 290,000km.

t5iv Grand Master

t5iv

Posted
Posted

Not a fan of cold crankIng. As long as the fluids are in relatively food condition, I wouldnt bother. Just be gentle until everything starts flowing like it should. Then you can really give it to her.

Does that sound sexual? :/

The Max Mentor

The Max

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Heheh. Not really that sexual considering my car is a bloke for if it were a female, I'd be more of a gentleman with it. :P

Anyway, thanks for all the tips guys. I'm not going to start a debate about the pros and cons of cold cranking, as that wasn't the aim of this thread, but at least now I know what I can do to perform it. I'll have to get my hands on the manuals for the Consult 3+ software to gain a little more insight before I get back home.

Thanks again guys.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      [HOW-TO] Winter Steam-Clean & Odour Removal in 30 min

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm so far behind in the jobs I have to do at both work and home (including car) that I have become immortal. There's simply no way that I can die now.
    • The Bogan
      [HOW-TO] Winter Steam-Clean & Odour Removal in 30 min

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Each to their own I guess  Me, I put just as much time into cleaning inside of the cars as I do on the outside As for getting wet, it is really no different than steam cleaning the carpets at home, apart from the cars carpet dries alot faster than the house, again, I only do it in the hotter months and leave the car opened up for a few hours As I only do it yearly, it is just before I do the diff and gearbox service, so I clean the carpets, then it's up on stands, wheels off, service, clean the undercarriage,  grease the bushings and do a nut and bolt check on everything  Disclaimer: I typically had all the time in the world to kill when I was working 🤣, so spending a full day or 2 cleaning, serving and "looking at stuff" was,  easily achievable, and a fun mental therapy day As for time to kill, I retired last Wednesday, so apart from my physical training, my days are filled with lots of random jobs around the house and garden...."Idle hands are the Devils something something" I am also buying a new house sooner rather than later, I'm actually looking at a potential property tomorrow, I'm looking forward to getting a car hoist as I'm starting to get to old to crawl around under a car, I can only imagine all the undercarriage cleaning and looking at stuff when that gets set up
    • GTSBoy
      [HOW-TO] Winter Steam-Clean & Odour Removal in 30 min

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I'm not interested in wetting the carpets, and I don't care about brown dirt/dust that lives deep in the pile or underneath. It's not like I crawl around on them in my birthday suit or eat dropped food off them (because there is never any open food in my car). The seats are alcantara (cheap Chinese imitation alcantara, to be sure!) with barely 1" of foam pad behind the surface. That's not getting wet either. Any car that I would be happy to get the interior wet, I would not care to put the effort into.
    • MBS206
      [HOW-TO] Winter Steam-Clean & Odour Removal in 30 min

      By MBS206 · Posted

      We have one that holds 2.8L of water. On floor carpet that hasn't been touched in 2 or 3 years, will take a minimum of 2 fills of the tank to do a bedroom, and that's going AROUND the bed.   In the cruiser, I used an ENTIRE 2.8L tank, just on the front passenger footwell. But it had some fungus growing, and had been full of mud from being used as a 4WD for many years. I can do that floor again, and it will still pull mud out. However, the water now only looks dirty, not pitch black and leaving full sludge in the bottom of the tank it sucks back into. Oh, and, this is about a $1500 unit.
    • The Bogan
      [HOW-TO] Winter Steam-Clean & Odour Removal in 30 min

      By The Bogan · Posted

      This is mine, works a treat for the cars, suction is good, I use the Bissell clean and protect stuff I have found giving it a good spray and light scrub with the soft brush on the head of the nossle for carpet, and a rub with a microfibre for cloth seats and cloth door trims, prior to another quick spray before vacuuming it up works the best @GTSBoy You would surprised on what it gets out of carpet and seats that actually "look" clean, I recommend that you test drive yours when you have a little time to kill, then post pics of the muddy looking water that I believe you will find
×
×
  • Create New...