Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking at getting a ute, so looking for any interest in this for $13k

Its had $10k of quality mods done in the last year,

GTX3076 with 0.82rear, external gate with 44mm Tial,

3.5inch system ,100cell cat, oval 3inch muffler ( not too loud)

Power fc with z32 and apexi boost controller

Tomei cams 256's, FMIC

1000cc Xspurt injectors, turbosmart reg, 400lph pump

GTR Dash with 110000k's, car has approximately 170000ks,

uses no oil, has zero blow by,

Has been tuned on Eflex fuel and made 320kw on 16psi, can easily put the 98 map back in , makes 280kw on 16psi on 98

Car is scary fast

0466 257 118

no swaps unless you have a VY series 2 SS ute with lowish km's

post-70965-0-16791100-1346038456_thumb.jpg

post-70965-0-43594800-1346038577_thumb.jpg

Edited by SliverS2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407935-r33-gtst-320kw-sale/
Share on other sites

alot of tight arses on here, ill just keep it, get a loan for a ute, too good to flog off to tight asses!!!!!!! :yes:

remove from classifields please.....

Edited by SliverS2

I gotta say that I dont like 33s but this one's just so right, you shouldnt be selling it esp with a rash decision! It looks good with the wheels, kit and stance and has the power and mods to boot, 13k is cheap!

Got anymore pics mate? Interested!

think ill hold on to it for now, after last offer i spent money on tyres and going to keep it for while

Edited by SliverS2

I gotta say that I dont like 33s but this one's just so right, you shouldnt be selling it esp with a rash decision! It looks good with the wheels, kit and stance and has the power and mods to boot, 13k is cheap!

I gotta say that I dont like 33s but this one's just so right, you shouldnt be selling it esp with a rash decision! It looks good with the wheels, kit and stance and has the power and mods to boot, 13k is cheap!

thanks mate, i changed my mind so all good, yeah ive put too much into to sell i think, would feel like a massive loss

looks like it will just recieve more mods and go for some fun at the drags and drift track.. get my monies worth

I'd say wait for a bit longer, nothing sells within days especially when it comes to a 2nd hand car. Give it 2-4 weeks and see how you go. I'd be honest with you, r33s are very very hard to sell because there are too many of them on the market. If you don't have to sell it then keep it. Otherwise good luck with the sale.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...