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Anyone Done An Rb30/26 Cost Analysis?


Shoota_77
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Hey guys, thinking about building an RB30/26 on the side to put in my 33 GTR.

Has anyone done an accurate cost calculation of the whole conversion?

These are my rough calculations-

RB30 $300

Pistons $700

Rods $600

Sump adapter $1000

Head gasket $450

Gaskets $300

Bearings $150

Main bolts $150

Head bolts $150

Machining $500??

Other stuff (tensioner, cam belt, etc) $300

Total $4600

How does that sound? What have I missed, or miscalculated?

Love to hear cost saving techniques or good sources for the bits.

Thanks.

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Ain't that the truth!

The parts cost won't change it's just the extra stuff you don't allow for that adds up. Plus the fact that more power is never enough!

I read your build thread, any ideas what just your engine cost?

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What ever estimate you come up with, budget for double.

Word

Remember all the bits and pieces like oil pumps, water pumps, power steering pumps, belts, mods on exhaust ect ect.

Im not saying dont do it, just find someone who has and get all the good news from them.

My 2530 rocks, only thing I wish was different was that I used a NEO head.

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I think I've heard about a Neo converted 26 head, anyone know anything bout that?

Sounds like the best of both worlds.

In regards to the standard conversion I'd do 90% of the work myself so labour no probs, just machining I could see blowing out.

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It can be done relatively cheaply like mine - stock pistons rods etc - just new rings bearings and rod bolts. You can get adapters for more like $400 these days.

But if you're going to all the trouble anyway and its for your GTR you may as well do the forged pistons, possibly rods, fully balanced new harmonic balancer etc in case you decide you want to rev it to 8000 and make 500kw down the track.

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I really wouldn't want a lot more power than what I have now. I reckon the off boost power of the 30 would make it so much better than the 26.

Mid to high 300's would be as driveable as a low 400's 26.

Happy to stand corrected!

Anyone shot preened/prepped standard rods making big power?

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I agree, you might get just the plate for that price but not plate, bolts, modified pickup, etc.

If I'm wrong please supply the link!

Where can you get them for this price?

Sorry guys - seems I got mine at mates rates - my engine builder only makes them for his own engines - says he doesn't have time to make them for general sales.
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Just curious, how have people gone in terms of registering a RB30/26 or even a RB30/25 in VIC? Apparently can't be done since RB30s are older than most of our Skylines?

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  • 3 weeks later...

Im intetested to know the answer to turbodragons question about eego in vic... additionally if anyone kbows about legality/roadworthyness of the conversion in qld i would be interested to know as im moving there down the track.

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Not 100% sure. With parts,labour and machining.

Well over $10k

all comes back to what u want done, but i was quoted 150$/ph labor in machining such as moving tensioner, fitting oil crank collar and any modding of the head and block...

i put some of my prices below to give you an idea, i get a lot of discount stuff because my machine shop has an account with the company i buy my performance stuff from.. and this is for a 25/30

RB30 $free

Pistons $1280 (JE pistons with CR 8.7:1)

Rods $587 (spool RB30 rods)

Sump GTR $190 (second hand nissan)

Head gasket $230 (cometic)

Gaskets $302 (genuine from NISSAN)

Bearings $111 (ACL race series)

Main bolts $157 (ARP)

Head bolts $150 (ARP)

Machining 5-10 hours labor possibly more..

Tensioners $234 (Nissan)

Studs for tensioners $60 (KUDOS motorsport)

Timing belt yet to buy

my complete total is over 17k, with the above + turbo manifold inj plenum etc etc... i have not paid a cent in machining but if i had i can guarantee it would be well over 17k by now im sure if you look around and that you can get alot of stuff for cheaper and so on good luck with it all, and what ever you can get away with and do your self go for it, as it all adds up in the long run..

Edited by tazzy
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Its not as easy as you think to build an engine and do a"cost analysis" and stick to it.

What happens when you take your head to the machine shop and it needs new valve guides and seats or its cracked?

If you're looking for ways to save money here and there, forget building an engine FULL STOP.

Do it once and do it right or don't do it at all.

But like NYTSKY said take your budget and double it then you may be close to the final figure.

Another thing I think you missed in your costs is assembly and all the double and triple checking clearances.

This costs money too.

This is assuming you're not assembling it.

But if you are assembling it you can just go and slap it together but don't be surprised if it fails shortly after its finished.

Don't trust any thing anyone tells you, check every clearance 10 times yourself to be sure and if its not right take it back and get it fixed.

Lastly $500 in machining? Double that and more including a head service.

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