Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got a dilemma at the moment which is that i've got a 300awkw GTR which i'm starting to get bored of the power.

300awkw just isn't that fast in a GTR, i'm running HKS GT-SS turbos at the moment.

So, i'm tossing up between going two large singles (2860 -5s or t518z's) or a big single like a t40z.

I've never been in a 400kw GTR, is it a lot more fun than a 300kw GTR?

Or do i need to go for a big single and aim for 450kw - 500kw?

  • Replies 80
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I was thinking that, but more boost means more strain on the motor right?

It's also a matter of not knowing what power level will make me happy.

A few others i've spoken to say that they've been in 400kw GTRs that felt amazingly fast, but my car feels so controlled and smooth in power delivery that it just doesn't excite me as much anymore.

More boost does not mean more strain, a big ass turbo running 20psi is going to put aheck load more strain on a engine than 2 little dinky GT-SS's pushing 20psi.

I was thinking that, but more boost means more strain on the motor right?

Boost is but one thing to consider right. You do know it's not the single factor in motor longevity?

If you can't afford. or don't want, the rebuild - anymore than 300rwkw is not for you. If you do have 15k standing by to go all out, then by all means chase the power.

You can get well into the "teens" at Sandown with those baby turbos and a well setup GT-R, and really, that is fking fast all things considered. So if you aren't there yet then you've got more to attend to than turbos for now :)

well into the teens at sandown on GT-SS?? really?? i thought the well sorted, well driven, RP -5's R's were doing 18's, 19's?

just put in on E85 - i've got 2530's... but had i done the build myself i think i would have gone GT-SS equiv on E85 - i think for the street, that's the sweet spot unless you're a track junkie.

Nope -7s on Chris's car. And that's what i mean about setup (and learning to drive it as well)

Funny thing is everyone said you needed 380rwkw/-5s to do it, but the time now stands @ 1:17 without it :)

faaaark me, 17 with -7's.... admittedly Chris was behind the wheel, a few seconds there! haha but still.... faark...

funny... i thought his car was -5's.... he's changed since yeah?

ok... maybe for 'normal' people who don't own/run GTR specific workshops, has anyone else got into the teens at Sandown with -7's? i thought everyone after, Jack, Ant, Snowy etc were -5's with semis?

Ant isn't running -5s either far as i know. Newton driving Chris's car was into the teens a couple years back for a Dutton or similar and i think he did as well... This was before he took the reigns too :thumbsup:

End of the day my point simply is going fast @ the circuit is more about setup than it is about outright power, especially whilst learning. A lot more to be sorted out first. If you aren't going as fast as people around you with similar power then you've gotta improve setup and/or driving.

Given Harry has been doing c/ship rounds I'm guessing that is where he is heading in terms of direction. If it's just street he is talking about then do whatever fits my earlier post RE: budget/builds and so on.

Ant isn't running -5s either far as i know. Newton driving Chris's car was into the teens a couple years back for a Dutton or similar and i think he did as well... This was before he took the reigns too :thumbsup:

End of the day my point simply is going fast @ the circuit is more about setup than it is about outright power, especially whilst learning. A lot more to be sorted out first. If you aren't going as fast as people around you with similar power then you've gotta improve setup and/or driving.

Given Harry has been doing c/ship rounds I'm guessing that is where he is heading in terms of direction. If it's just street he is talking about then do whatever fits my earlier post RE: budget/builds and so on.

Yep that's right i've started doing circuit work and love it, everytime i get out on the track i learn something new and have dropped time off my PB. I understand there are still significant time improvements to be had with current setup, but what i really wanted to get a better idea of was at what power level are most GTR drivers content? Is it just a case of you always get used to the power? I've heard lots of people running -5s with around 350kw saying that the power delivery just 'feels' much faster than the -9s. What about you Ash, are you happy with your current -5 setup at the moment? Do you know what i mean about the -5s feeling faster when they come on boost?

Boost is but one thing to consider right. You do know it's not the single factor in motor longevity?

If you can't afford. or don't want, the rebuild - anymore than 300rwkw is not for you. If you do have 15k standing by to go all out, then by all means chase the power.

You can get well into the "teens" at Sandown with those baby turbos and a well setup GT-R, and really, that is fking fast all things considered. So if you aren't there yet then you've got more to attend to than turbos for now :)

Yep, absolutley understand this, and I do have budget for a rebuild when/if it happens, again i was just more curious regarding at what power level other GTR drivers were content, since i've become used to 300awkw pretty quickly.

well into the teens at sandown on GT-SS?? really?? i thought the well sorted, well driven, RP -5's R's were doing 18's, 19's?

just put in on E85 - i've got 2530's... but had i done the build myself i think i would have gone GT-SS equiv on E85 - i think for the street, that's the sweet spot unless you're a track junkie.

Interesting you say this Daniel, i've seen one of our fellow sau members make 380kw on his gtr with hks gtss + e85. Possibly something to consider as an alternative to -5s to get up to my desired power level of around 370awkw.

well into the teens at sandown on GT-SS?? really?? i thought the well sorted, well driven, RP -5's R's were doing 18's, 19's?

just put in on E85 - i've got 2530's... but had i done the build myself i think i would have gone GT-SS equiv on E85 - i think for the street, that's the sweet spot unless you're a track junkie.

Hi Daniel how do you find the 2530 on the street? I was thinking of getting these turbos for the power but have no idea how it feels in terms of lag and on/off boost response. Do you feel for the street that they are too lagy? I still have the n1 in my car and am now contemplating the gtss for the extra power without compromising response

Yep that's right i've started doing circuit work and love it, everytime i get out on the track i learn something new and have dropped time off my PB. I understand there are still significant time improvements to be had with current setup, but what i really wanted to get a better idea of was at what power level are most GTR drivers content? Is it just a case of you always get used to the power? I've heard lots of people running -5s with around 350kw saying that the power delivery just 'feels' much faster than the -9s. What about you Ash, are you happy with your current -5 setup at the moment? Do you know what i mean about the -5s feeling faster when they come on boost?

They will 'feel' faster (esp on a 2.6) because of the transition onto power is so much more sudden. 5's (IMHO) really need a 2.8 + OR a high comp (9.2:1 +) 2.6 to work.

Interesting you say this Daniel, i've seen one of our fellow sau members make 380kw on his gtr with hks gtss + e85. Possibly something to consider as an alternative to -5s to get up to my desired power level of around 370awkw.

The jury is still out on that result. 1/4 trap speeds don't add up.

On the street the smaller turbo's will be faster and depending on what you're into more fun too. Coming out of a second gear corner and waiting for the snails to 'wakeup' SUCKS! You're halfway up the hill and it's "here we go!!!"... then you have to brake..... But it will look better on a dyno, so your pub talk will be a winner!

Sorry to go off topic Harry but I think if you mainly do street driving you will get sick of any big turbo setup with extra lag that what you have now. On my gtt I have a big lagy turbo and it shits me, and also the constant gear changing to be in the sweet spot. But I no what you mean with the gtr and 300kw. These cars just handle the power so nicely and that you know it can take more without turning it into a pig

Yep that's right i've started doing circuit work and love it, everytime i get out on the track i learn something new and have dropped time off my PB. I understand there are still significant time improvements to be had with current setup, but what i really wanted to get a better idea of was at what power level are most GTR drivers content? Is it just a case of you always get used to the power? I've heard lots of people running -5s with around 350kw saying that the power delivery just 'feels' much faster than the -9s. What about you Ash, are you happy with your current -5 setup at the moment? Do you know what i mean about the -5s feeling faster when they come on boost?

You always get used to the power.

I had the smaller turbos on there, for a street car that i took to hill climbs/motorkhana's and so on on the weekends it was the best setup.

Putting -5s on they are laggier, and 1st/2nd is pointless as you really need to be 140km/h++ before the -5s come into their own. The only reason -5s feel faster is because they take longer to spool and then hit harder with the torque later on. Yeah they make more power so at a track like Philip Island they might well give you benefit - but go to Sandown/Winton the smaller ones definitely shine.

Plus you'd still need to do transfer case, front/rear diff, suspension. They make the biggest difference dollar vs gains IMO over power/rebuild - just there is 10k on its own. So add in another 15k for the motor and everything and you've done 25k there. Hence why my GTR was such a bargin really @ 30k, and sold easily :)

Interesting you say this Daniel, i've seen one of our fellow sau members make 380kw on his gtr with hks gtss + e85. Possibly something to consider as an alternative to -5s to get up to my desired power level of around 370awkw.

And his MPH @ the track showed he didn't have anymore than 300rwkw at the time. So take the result with a massive grain of salt.

I think you are after the kick in the back of the head that only a big single can deliver

transitional power from smaller twins is definitely not as exciting... but more useable in everyday conditions....

I think you are after the kick in the back of the head that only a big single can deliver

transitional power from smaller twins is definitely not as exciting... but more useable in everyday conditions....

Or put GT RS's or 2540's on there. That will give that feeling !

The jury is still out on that result. 1/4 trap speeds don't add up.

And his MPH @ the track showed he didn't have anymore than 300rwkw at the time. So take the result with a massive grain of salt.

yep... going to have to look into this after my holiday

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...