Jump to content
SAU Community

Car Crash Need Panel Beating

lachlantye

By lachlantye,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

lachlantye Rookie

lachlantye

Posted
Posted

Hello,

Just a quick one i just had a little crash ran up the back of someone i have insurance and they are covered but i will have to get some repairs its nothing to bad just mainly panels. Just wondering if anyone knows a good panel beater in sydney i live in pyrmont so inner west would be the more appealing for me

Thanks alot for your help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/409445-car-crash-need-panel-beating/
Share on other sites
xntrq Veteran

xntrq

Posted
Posted

if its not bad, why don't you DIY? go to your local wrecker and find the fenders, bar and bits you need. It might work out to be cheaper that way. I recently had an accident as well likewise analing someone (his fault really, technicalities aren't in my favour though).

also if the other guy is happy, you can DIY his too. the taxi i ran into quoted me 2k for repairs. only need to buy a rear bar and a fibreglass cover and bolt in.

lachlantye Rookie

lachlantye

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeh not going to claim my excess will be more then the repairs, don't have much time to do it myself so I'm happy to get it done just wanted to know if anyone knows a good place and also if anyone has a r33 front

xntrq Veteran

xntrq

Posted
Posted

tumblr_m8i8s5IGHp1rtx6bf.jpg

Possible. The guy cut in front of me and slammed his brakes to avoid hitting car in front and had neglected road rules by not allowing sufficient distance to take in.

Yeh not going to claim my excess will be more then the repairs, don't have much time to do it myself so I'm happy to get it done just wanted to know if anyone knows a good place and also if anyone has a r33 front

Www.japsportsspares.com.au

I know they've got R33 wrecking at the moment. Give Anthony a call, should be able to sort out your parts needed.

JimmyRickard Mentor

JimmyRickard

Posted
Posted

Hey guys just to add to this topic, I need to get my GTR straightened and painted for a blue slip. It has minor hail damage on the bonnet, roof and front guards, and has a few minor dings on pretty much every other panel. what's the most cost effective way of getting it straigthened out? Should I be sourcing new panels or will it cost just as much to repair my current panels? I can probably prep the car myself also. Any other ideas?

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted

If these are "every day" cars and not just hacks, Id send it to a panel beater.

Very rarely does a panel bend without bending another.

The metal is soft, and stretches easily. Getting it back into proper position requires some special tools and a bit of know how.

I just straightened the front of an R33 I bought. It's road worthy but not 100% perfect in terms of looks if you know where you're looking as it still has ripples from stretched metal.

JimmyRickard Mentor

JimmyRickard

Posted
Posted

Well there's dings in most panels, but the biggest concern in about a 5c piece of rust in the rear quarter window, which won't pass the blueslip. And it would be stupid just to fix that part of the rust and leave the rest looking like shit.

Got a mate looking at it so hopefully I will have a quote soon

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity. Edit: 11kg each (or 10.9/11.1 depending on what my scale decides over multiple tests, the 18x11 don't seem to weigh noticeably any more than 10.5)  
×
×
  • Create New...