Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello any help would be great,

My C34 is currently leaking oil from near the oil filter, I'm 99% sure its not the oil filter because when i grab it with clean hands the filter and the filter block are clean. It looks like its coming from the part in the pics iv attached it might be the factory oil cooler? not to sure just wondering if anyone knows of a common leak that can develop in this area? I cant get a good look in there and I have big hands LOL, also its leaking a fair bit of oil so I need it fixed asap.

thanks guys

Rhet

post-56886-0-99762900-1348377090_thumb.jpg

post-56886-0-96705600-1348377121_thumb.jpg

post-56886-0-98867300-1348377156_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/409953-rb25-oil-leak/
Share on other sites

That's an iunisual place for an oli leak, the cooler is a bolt on arrangement and unles you have removed it there sholud be no problem, how much oil are you loosing it might be coming from above, cam covers are prone to coming loose, try tightening the covers maybe.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/409953-rb25-oil-leak/#findComment-6546557
Share on other sites

I have a remote oil filter in which I have oil temp and oil pressure sensors for dash mounted gauges. I run single din and gauges fill space.it is cool and practical.No leaks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/409953-rb25-oil-leak/#findComment-6546593
Share on other sites

It is loosing a bit, a little 10cm puddle when I park over night. It has never been removed as far as I know. I did look to see if it was coming from higher and didn't see anything but I'll have a proper look tomorrow again.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/409953-rb25-oil-leak/#findComment-6546840
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hello again fine sirs! after repairing the first oil leak i have found another, oil is seeping from the very front of the sensor to the left/below the oil filter. Right from the front just behind the screw that holds the tab/electrode thing for the sensor wiring. Now is this the oil pressure sensor? i'm thinking it may be best to replace the whole thing? any advice?

cheers guys, this is really starting to shit me!

post-56886-0-04450000-1352018130_thumb.jpg

Edited by horrace
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/409953-rb25-oil-leak/#findComment-6608819
Share on other sites

Agreed with Dale. Hey Rhet, does your oil light on your dash work? I was wondering from viewing the first pic why it was disconnected. That brown plug flappin' in the wind in the pics should most likely be connected to it..........

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/409953-rb25-oil-leak/#findComment-6609172
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...