Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

did you actually notice that that thread is 10 years old?

EDIT: After reading the thread they are right. 33's can be bougt very cheap and there are alot of shitty examples out there.

The good thing is that they will again become rare as all the others will become thrashed and trashed

Edited by ML73ZR

wanna still be special, buy a HR31

not to long it will be , buy a nice bnr32

QFT.

CBF reposting my post from OCAU, y'all can read my thoughts there.

IMO the only visually distinctive imports these days are HR31s, CLEAN R32 GT-Rs and rare stuff like Cedrics etc. Peeps tend to overate non GT-R Skylines IMO.

Even a good mate's HR31 still gets mistaken for an Aussie R31 by the unwashed masses, and chicks HATE it lol.

Edited by bozodos

skylines are quickly becoming the hoons car of choice, since they are so cheap. we had a storm come through noosa this arvo. the first car i saw doing burnouts in the wet was a r32. imports in general are the new commodore these days (unless you are in a mining community)

i remember when my mate got his very clean and expensive 33 and it was still a special car, we started getting 32 gtrs and 31 coups and passages, 34s were still to hard or pricey to get....the good old days.

its a bit depressing when you can go and buy your old dream car for fark all.

even more depressing when i saw my old 31 which i spent allot of time sweat and money modding and i saw it (granted clean and in ok condition) driven by hat wearing 16yr olds with their seats slammed back scraping on its ass and playing some shite rap music. oh well

Yes I do remember the first wave of R33's in town about 2005-2006, unfortunately since most were aquired by posers they were turned around fairly quickly. Most of the neat ones barely leave the garage; there's been several attempts to start an import community / club in town but it's failed hard, every single time, which is weird given that this is a real community of petrolheads.

GH05T: the GT-Rs are still not exactly cheap, I have seen a few thrashed out R32s around, but usually the bearings go before they get ruined styling wise :P

Marc: It's great - not a single f**k is given by the law about modified V8s, as there are so many trashy, attention seeking run down imports getting around (not counting the P platers driving the turbo variants lulz). My current favourite is a run down NA CA18 S13 with bin lid chromies missing the centre caps and a straight pipe exhaust, with a huge f**k YEAH JDM sticker / stickerbomb on the rear quarter window. I blame NS for it.

Most of the WRXs getting around these days on the other hand, are boring and stock, or nicely modified. I seriously considered one, but found the styling on the later model ones (the mazda 3 lookalike) to be just too ugly, not to mention no mechanics want to touch them in town so cbf travelling for mechanical work / being ripped off @ the stealership.

i think the problem for all sport cars are when they become affordable, it's great for those who love them and can only afford them as a result, but the flipside is alot of muppets will be getting into them treating/ricing it like their parents daewoo - big generalisation i know but generally the higher up the socio-economic food chain the car is the safer it is from hectics - bar queen street

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...