Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

We are about to launch Yellow Jackets Coil packs for the V35 and V36 models and we have just about finished testing them for production.

Traditionally, before I release them to the market, I like to get a few random SAU'ers on board to give my coils some "real-life" testing and I will need testers for each type.

Please post or PM me if you'd be interested. There's a free set of coils in it for any one who can help out. :)

:cheers:

PW

I don't mind chucking some on my car for you. ATM its a turbo'd VQ35de.

If you really want to give them hell, we can get a few M35 Stagea owners out there to try them- running upto 25psi, and higher under bonnet temps cause of the turbo too. VQ25det are the same coils afaik.

I have a stock 2005 350gt 6MT that is my daily, and does around 200km of city driving a week. If that suits your test requirements, I am happy to test.

VQ25det are the same coils afaik.

Same body but different part number, they probably run a higher coil output voltage as I have never found the limits of the stock VQ25det coils.

I could in a few weeks. The issue is, they won't represent how these will work in most peoples VQ engines as I run much colder plugs, 5 times the cylinder pressure and e85.

Btw Alex, the VQ25dd awd gearbox I was having rebuilt has different (weaker) internals, I have to get mine rebuilt as it won't handle the power. More clutches = more boost. :)

I could in a few weeks. The issue is, they won't represent how these will work in most peoples VQ engines as I run much colder plugs, 5 times the cylinder pressure and e85.

Btw Alex, the VQ25dd awd gearbox I was having rebuilt has different (weaker) internals, I have to get mine rebuilt as it won't handle the power. More clutches = more boost. :)

Its called extreme product testing :P

Talk about never ending gearbox story.... I didn't even know you had a DD gearbox. Auto for drags, manual for track = WIN!

Ideally, I want to give these coils a hard time to see what they can handle.

Well if you are happy to throw a set this way I can test them at 30psi in a few weeks. :)

My car doesnt see a hell of a lot of action during the week but is driven hard almost every weekend to make up for it. Would be happy to give them a try if you like. How long would the test run for?

Here's another V36 owner who is happy to give them a go. I have a tendency to thrash the car often (which is why I insist on servicing the car myself every 5000km) so I hope I can be considered one of the extreme testers, for a naturally aspirated vehicle.

Thanks guys. I'll send some PMs out shortly.

Im kind of new to the V series skylines. Can any one confirm for me what other cars/engines are interchangeable with the V35 coil packs and also the V36 coil packs?

Thanks in advance.

V36 (2008-) and Z34 (370Z) use the same VQ37VHR engine although I believe the V36 sedans didn't get this engine until the 2009 model. Otherwise, up until then the V36 sedans got the V35 engine.

Edited by The Max

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...