Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I just don't have the time to write up the guide, plus it may be a little confusing as it isn't an m35.

Che?

What do I drive? :P

Apologies for not putting up the comparison data, not so good with Excel so will take some time.

Excellent mod though and one of the first that should be done on a VQ25/VQ35 IMO

Che?

What do I drive? :P

Apologies for not putting up the comparison data, not so good with Excel so will take some time.

Excellent mod though and one of the first that should be done on a VQ25/VQ35 IMO

A tractor usually. :P

I forgive you Cam.

Is this the same principal: http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=3434&Car_Type=G35&UID=20121009182338150.101.79.229

Of course I don't think it'd fit on a VQ25DET but sounds like the same concept.

Same concept, without the thermostat, and they didn't fixing the air bleed issue. That is the pathfinder coolant mod, I imagine that assembly will hold air in the thermostat too.

Mine also replaces the stock plastic bleed point with a billet alloy body and high pressure ball valve.

Is this the same principal: http://www.conceptzp...8150.101.79.229

Of course I don't think it'd fit on a VQ25DET but sounds like the same concept.

I looked at for some time Ryan and asked if it was bolt on and what, if any mods needed to be made to install.

The response?

"It is bolt on. It bolts onto the rear of the engine but you will have to cut and weld the pipe to attach to your coolant pipe"

(referring to the male/female fitting into the pipe on the driver side of the engine)

American "bolt on" is not the same as Japanese "bolt on". :no:

"It is bolt on. It bolts onto the rear of the engine but you will have to cut and weld the pipe to attach to your coolant pipe"

(referring to the male/female fitting into the pipe on the driver side of the engine)

American "bolt on" is not the same as Japanese "bolt on". :no:

What?

Don't think its weld on. The original piece for my car (dunno about NM35s) has a female end, and the goldy coloured anodised piece pushes in and secures into the alloy pipe.

The kit seems to have a lipped edge- so it wouldn't push in, but a bit of silicon tube and a couple of clamps would sort it out just fine.

I think the bigger issue is the cross over exhaust manifold pipe, and the extra stuff round the back there.

I like how their kit "lowers temps by 20 degrees", when I read that... The temps are still controlled by the stock thermostat ffs.

Ours is the same female fitting Alex, but the cast alloy pipe is a different shape for that reason, it would hit the crossover I think. ^^

OK, no steak knives please ... I am a vegetarian!

But I do have a relatively standard 2001 stagea and my Galaxy series 2 phone takes good pics so I am interested.

Also as a noob who took a long time to do the brake wire cut simply because I couldn't find pics I think its important to have good visual guides up here. Yeah Yeah I didn't take the pics either... next time I have the glove box out and on the back seat I will do a step by step on the 'brake wire snip' for new noobs. If you don't send me steak knives and do talk me through it, I'll do the same for this. :rolleyes:

You need a 2nd person to take the pics, otherwise the camera gets covered in oily fingerprints. :P

I have ordered the fittings, they should be around a week away. When they arrive I will have 3 kits ready to send out straight away. For anyone else interested I can make them up as I go.

You need a 2nd person to take the pics, otherwise the camera gets covered in oily fingerprints. :P

I have ordered the fittings, they should be around a week away. When they arrive I will have 3 kits ready to send out straight away. For anyone else interested I can make them up as I go.

Dibs!

  • 4 weeks later...

I'm going to try and fit this kit up on the weekend. Would I be right in saying it'll take an hour or two to remove the plenum and get down to the middle of the V to fit the top plate, about half an hour to actually fit the kit, and an hour or so to put it back together?

Should be about right. You shouldn't have to disconnect the fuel rail from the lines, just flip it over onto the drivers side guard.

Make sure you silicone the top plate, you don't want it leaking...

Shouldn't need to silicone it.

We used a new gasket for each of ours although the existing gasket would probably be good enough.

Gasket is the same as on a VQ35 in case you want to grab one from Nissan, Ryan.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How dare you sell your unreliable Skyline and buy a reliable, Toyota/Yamaha car with a strong gearbox, torsen LSD and Toyota reliability. At least you won't need to worry about oil pumps, big catch can, oil restrictors, blowing off power steering belts, sheering off 3rd gear, failing ABS relays/pumps, etc.
    • Hope you aren't too sore after that one, might take a day or 2 to notice yet and I guess it is a loooooong drive home. On the bright side, tube frame front end is a thing at superlap, right?
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rmVb1SKB/ 
    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
×
×
  • Create New...