Jump to content
SAU Community

M35 Coolant Bypass Kit


scotty nm35
 Share

Recommended Posts

I have been testing a few of my bypass kits out on my car, Cam's PM35 and a turbo V35, all showing good results. Hopefully Cam can add his logging data to the thread later.

It consists essentially of a hose connecting the block to the coolant return line back to the radiator via the heater hose. I decided to fix the air bleeding issue at the same time, with a ball valve for easy filling and purging. I was hoping to make up some funnels to screw into the ball valve also but they aren't really required. The pushlock fittings aren't cheap and I still need to get quotes for the laser cut alloy block plates so I have no firm pricing as yet, but I need to gauge interest as I don't want to get many more than I need cut.

From my testing this kit makes filling the coolant simple, just top up the radiator, start the car, then fill through the ball valve. One closed it seals the system but allows simple air bleeding as required.

It allows more coolant to circulate through the radiator, keeping temps much more stable. I have done a few track days recently and although the temps rose it was much less than I would usually see, and the stock radiator I am using was coping well. (shame the gearbox didn't stay as cool.) On the dyno the coolant temps were more stable and when pushed it would rise, then drop back to normal straight away making the tuner more confident with multiple high power runs. I feel a larger radiator would still help keep the track temps under more control.

Here are a few instal pics, the hose will require heat shielding from the exhaust as you can see.

post-63525-0-19752600-1349448718_thumb.jpg

post-63525-0-35233700-1349448738_thumb.jpg

post-63525-0-40611300-1349448759_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I know you lot don't take me seriously lol.. But this is seriously something a lot of you should be getting on to. Especially after seeing what the little bottle like thing looks like on the head..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know you lot don't take me seriously lol.. But this is seriously something a lot of you should be getting on to. Especially after seeing what the little bottle like thing looks like on the head..

And you sell it so well.

Why did you have a bottle on your head?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No timeframe as I have no time. lol.

I need to get the plates laser cut, once that is done the rest is fairly straightforward to make. I might do a small run of 10 for now and see how I go. I'm guessing around the $250 mark for the complete kit, hopefully less if I can get some better pricing. Obviously buying in bulk would be smarter too. Anyone got contacts at proflow? :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No timeframe as I have no time. lol.

Tease! :nyaanyaa:

I need to get the plates laser cut, once that is done the rest is fairly straightforward to make. I might do a small run of 10 for now and see how I go. I'm guessing around the $250 mark for the complete kit, hopefully less if I can get some better pricing. Obviously buying in bulk would be smarter too. Anyone got contacts at proflow? :)

Sounds fine, I'm down for one. Let me know when you've worked out firm pricing etc. Good chance to chuck in the Nismo thermostat at the same time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Nismo thermostat is a 5 minute job, this kit will take a few hours Ryan. The injector rail and lower plenum will have to come off. Not a difficult job but time consuming.

I can make one and send it over if you want it soon, I think I have enough parts. Are you able to take some pics and write up an install guide to help out the other guys? I can work you through it on the phone.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Didn't Cam take enough photos for install guide?

The time it takes to complete the job is rewarded, coolant temps are very stable and the fact that you don't have to tip your car upside down to bleed the cooling system makes it worthwhile

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I might do a small run of 10 for now and see how I go. I'm guessing around the $250 mark for the complete kit, hopefully less if I can get some better pricing. Obviously buying in bulk would be smarter too. Anyone got contacts at proflow? :)

Check out http://www.anfittingsdirect.com/index.php. I had a quick look & couldn't see weld on fittings, but maybe there is a way around by being creative? Prices look good compared to other suppliers & a decent order (for 10 people) should only add $5 for each person.

N/A if they don't have the bits you need, but possible source for other projects perhaps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They only seem to sell teflon hose connections Leon, I have this hose but it is more expensive and also not very flexible. It also has a lower recommended heat rating. I think the rubber hose with pushlock fittings is a better way to go.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They only seem to sell teflon hose connections Leon, I have this hose but it is more expensive and also not very flexible. It also has a lower recommended heat rating. I think the rubber hose with pushlock fittings is a better way to go.

I agree, rubber hose is better for this situation. Sorry, I didn't look very hard at what they sold.

Edited by Commsman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My only regret with the NC MX5 was no space for a spare, even a space saver doesn't fit in I do have a couple of those puncture repair spray cans, but if I get a large puncture, or sidewall damage, I'm screwed until a tilt tray turns up I'm thinking I might get one of those 4WD style of puncture repair kits that have that rope stuff and glue, whilst it will kill any hope of saving a tyre, it might help getting me out from some backwoods road far enough to find a actual tyre shop if the first can of tyre fix doesn't work I'm keen to see how your new toy pans out Uncle Duncan, I'll be moving to the Highlands next year, you'll need to shout out if your heading to Wakefield, whilst I've lost my balls for happy laps, I still love watching those that can
    • Yeah not sure what the warranty was, but it will be years outside it.  I've shot Link a message, will see what happens, I'm told their support is good. It is a plug in, so its a Link board in a factory case, very easy to access both sides of the circuit board by removing the top or bottom cover. To be fair the the Link, although I've checked to the factory connections and wiring specs, as we learned with Neil's car in the early days not all ECUs source power the same way. He'd been running a factory ECU with no trouble for years, but when we plugged a PowerFC in it wouldn't start up, just kept cycling power on and off. We worked out that the car was missing one of the 10a fuses "Electronic Parts", and to Neil's knowledge it had never been there. Turns out the ECU pulled its main power from that source not the same place the factory ECU did.  Point being....there are multiple battery and ECCS power sources in the factory ECU, and multiple grounds as well....not telling from the outside exactly what the Link uses (and doesn't use)
    • Now, thanks to sonicii, onto the uneven floor from a tyre sticking 100mm into the boot space. I looked into options to raise the floor to the level of the tyre, and ended up going Extruded Polystyrene (XPS). EPS is what I normally think of as polystyrene, the annoying tiny balls that get glued into a flat sheet but XPS is quite different, much firmer and doesn't crumble if you touch it with anything. I also looked at things like heavy duty seating foam but XPS seemed like the right way. I picked up 3x 1200x600x50 sheets for $40ea. Initially I was looking for 100mm sheets because I needed to make up a 100mm gap, but as it turned out 50mm was available, much easier to work with and made it simple to store the tools I used a simple 15cm foam cutter to make the shapes. With some practice I was able to make reasonably clean cuts but I don't think Clark Rubber are going to be calling me to offer a job. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/405092315205?var=675175481574 First layer in place, 3 dimensions are tricky! Second layer in place, bringing it to level with the top of the spare Cutouts in the top layer for the tools With floor back in place, nice and flat with 100mm stolen but no real impact on usability
    • Sounds like a good idea to me moh
    • Next was to address securing the spare. I don't think it will go anywhere unless I roll the car (which I'm not intending to do until *after* i start race/rallying it  ) While there are quicker options if I had a hoist (like welding a nut under the floor and securing through the wheel stud hole  or even a central bolt wide enough for the hub bore, I went the easy option on the floor. I took 2x stainless M6 eye bolts And put 2 M6 rivuts through the floor, the secured the wheel with a very short rubber strap There is nothing under the floor to worry about on my car so I just picked a flat section so the rivnuts would sit nicely.  I did initially drop the exhaust heatshield but where I actually put the rivnuts cleared that anyway *flicks strap* "that ain't going anywhere!"
×
×
  • Create New...